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Dumped my locking bolts, had one break on the Volvo, turned an ordinary wheel change into a 6 hour marathon, as mentioned, with alloys being so common are they worth stealing? As a note, you may need standard/shorter bolts to fit steel wheel if you have this as a spare.

Various types of these available from good tool stockist's, okay if you have access to drill into the broken bolt/stud

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126056970548?_ Talking about lanoguard, I found this while searching for rustproofing, seems to be very similar to lanoguard but much cheaper, wondered if anyone has used it?

When I replaced the brake dust plates on mine I managed to cut it so it can be slightly bent to go over the hub...can't remember where the cut was actually made but there are some videos online showing how it's done

Take it back to Honda... Seriously though, how can anyone here tell you what to do unless we have more details??

I have 205 55 16 tyres on mime, potholes are, and will always will be a problem. Only solution is to try and avoid them, or go over them slowly

The wheelarch liner is usally held in place with various plastic rivets & nuts, it may just have come loose...

Slightly off topic, when they're cleaned and sparkling, what's the best product to keep them clean? I was thinking of using PoorBoys wax on my newly painted alloys but welcome any recomendations please. The inevitable build up of brake dust makes them dull pretty quickly...thanks guys.

Had a similar problem on my C180K after replacing track rod ends, steering wheel was off center and confused the steering angle sensor. Has the steering wheel been removed previously? Was the rack centralised before refitting? Maybe worth another alignment check, making sure that both ends of...

I've been using E10 in both the Merc and Volvo, havent noticed any difference in the Merc but the Volvo fuel consumption has dropped by 2-3 mpg

You could try putting a g clamp on the working piston, then see if the other one moves...be careful that it doesn't pop out completely though...then try pushing it back, repeating a few times might be enough to free it up

I've been using Pad Goo from Bremtech, on the Volvo which is prone to brake squeal. This seems to have stopped it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331276418581

Loads of paint shops will be able to supply touch up paint in the correct colour, or try Chipex

When I bought my C180K with 118k miles, first major job was to replace timing chain & sprockets, still going good now at 231k. Found this engine fairly easy to work on for usual service items although alternator replacement proved a pita, regular oil & filter changes seem to make a diference, I...

Looks very good, I'm so glad you haven't painted the calipers red...

This is what I use on locks... https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/holts-graphite-maintenance-spray-500ml-552996190?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsqOMBhDFARIsAFBTN3dUUjcl

I don't want to sound derogatory to the OP, but any driver should be competent enough to know this tyre is not roadworthy, even if it was, there is enough wear to tell you something is not right with either suspension, tracking or inflation. I too would suggest under inflation, but merely...

Because when it's wet the rubber gets lubricated, you could try a spray lubricant on all the suspension joints...

You've already mentioned them, but I've used Bigg Red in the past and quite impressed

I change mine, in the merc & volvo, every 6 months using a sealey oil extractor for one change then by the sump plug next time to remove any crud that may be there, I don't think using the suction method would remove this. 249K miles on the merc. I believe regular oil changes have kept the...