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The design of the side repeater changed in c.1997 so it's possible the slot it fitted into did as well.

I bought a one-owner full-service-history 1999 c240 a year ago for £500. Since then: new control arms, steering idler, brake pipes, diff seals, condenser, transmission fluid pipe, crank pulley and a few other things. Lesson: get someone to check out the underside.

I spent a morning wandering round Munich looking for one without success. Still waiting for the bill.

Final update A neighbour (what knows about this sort of thing) suggested that I check to see if the engine cranked or not. It didn't. Or rather it did a bit and then jammed. Whether this was due to the lost bolt or not I don't know but for me it was a showstopper. According to Haynes, removing...

Post-facelift W202 Door lock: key goes all the way in but does not turn Boot lock: key goes all the way in but does not turn Glove box: key works Boot lock problems are common on this model. There is a release on the fob and inside the car so the lock doesn't get used and seizes. But...

I have done what I can to locate the bolt in the timing chain area. I even used an endoscope. No luck, which makes me think it has ended up in the sump. I quite agree that it needs to come out. "What did the machine shop at Wellingborough do to the head to sort out the porosity in the past...

Update Some of you may have begun to think that I have seen the error of my ways and abandoned this crazy project. Not so. Unfortunately, I have been rather slowed down by the death of a close family member but even so progress is being made: 1. The head is now on. Unfortunately, I managed...

Right, the head is back so I can start to think about putting it all back together. I notice the Haynes manual recommends using "sealant" on both the guide rail pin and the the timing chain cover. Is this necessary? and, if so, what sort of sealant should I use?

And so it goes on… They have discovered that some welding has taken place in the past and that the welded material now has holes in it. on Flickr

Answers to questions and responses to points raised: I sent the head to a company called Cylinder Head Services in Wellingborough. They have yet to send me a report but they have sent me a quotation. So, maybe I was hasty in using the word "substantial". They also haven't mentioned what...

They do exist. They are not particularly cheap and there is no guarantee they don't have the same problems mine has.

Well, the cylinder head people have taken a look at it and the news is not good. While I was expecting the head to need a skim it would appear that there is also substantial valve damage and substantial valve damage means a substantial bill. While I was prepared to marry my handiwork to...

Yes, I've had that hammered in to me.

The heart of darkness on Flickr The gasket itself does not appear to be in particularly bad condition. There’s no rust and - to my untrained eye - no wear. Which makes me think that the real culprit is a warped head. In fact the gasket doesn’t seem very old at all. It certainly doesn’t...

More progress. The sprockets are now off largely due to the generosity of a neighbour who lent me his socket set: Flickr The Haynes manual had a bit how you had to have a flanged nut in order to withdraw the two main parts of the inlet cam sprocket separately. Well, I disassembled it...

Some progress to report. The inlet manifold is off. As are the cam cover, thermostat housing, front cover and timing chain tensioner. The inlet manifold was a bit of chore due to inaccessible bolts. But we got there in the end. Should the cam cover be that dirty? Would it benefit from a...

Looking ahead it would appear that the cylinder head bolts will have a 12-point head. Can I get away with using something other than the proper socket? If not, does anyone know where I can get the proper socket? Will it be expensive?

I may have got the nuts off but exhaust manifold still won’t come off the head because it is connected to the exhaust front pipe. I really don’t fancy my chances with this. There appears to be no gap underneath those bolt heads (A) which implies they are either welded on or part of the...

Steve, Your ramblings are far from mindless. Please keep them coming.

neilrr, Thanks for the suggestion. I had considered it but for everyone swearing by it there was another claiming it was the work of the Devil. And anyway, a lot of this is about the joy of ripping an engine apart.