Search results

Done plenty of work on this myself have a look HERE Other threads of mine cover it also if you search.

Nope not solved car been off the road for a month now. Cost me a fortune so far, gonna try a second hand ecu with IFZ and keyfob off the same model and year of car next. More coverage on this issue HERE

Aint that the truth LOL :wallbash:

Is the car still working ok? Cheers Dave.

Keep us posted how you get on in the next few weeks. Cheers, Dave.

Yep sorry, having real probs with my car shouldnt tar them all with the same brush, I humbley retreat into the shadows of my sick car again... Back to the thread....

Sorry for the large font and colour and also sorry for telling the truth, and sorry again for hijacking the thread (even with valid points).

The car the guy is buying is 15 years old! So you cant use that argument. The faults are all electrical on mine and didnt show up on PDI, garage I got it from doesnt want to know, do a search on W202 C280 IFZ and immobiliser faults, and speedo faults, and fuel pump faults and OVP faults and...

I wouldn't! - Read some of my problems with my 1995 C class by clicking the following link, its up to you though.... : C280 Problems Ive had the car 5 weeks!

[/LEFT] The key fobs have a coil in that burns out IIRC, it probably needs a repair job.

Maybe if it has a lock-out relay that disables the starter if it thinks the Auto gear selector is not in "p". My C280 1995 has this relay fitted, the car will not start at all if it thinks it is not in "p". Dont know if it applies to your newer car???

Possibly the OVP relay which is the 3 inch long silver rectangular unit with a fuse in the top, near the back right hand side o the engine compartment under the plastic flap, by the ECU.

Im afraid I still have the same fault. Think Ive narrowed it down to the IFZ module for the central locking/combined immobiliser as fitted to this car. Checked and cleaned all the relays in the HFM module, still no use. Resynced keys with new batts again, no use.

The reason is fairly simple. The chargers circuits have a Nominal constant supply rating at which they will run fine. Go above there rating and you could blow the charger or shorten its useful life if you continuously draw more current for longer periods than the design was for. As stated though...

Just remade the joins were the original alarm broke some of the starter circuit, completley removed the old alarm module remaking every joint right back to the fusebox. Cant do any further tests as Ive flattened the battery and am waiting for someone to drop a charger off tonight so I can...

Yeah cheers Dec, have tried all the resync procedures Ive been given have tried my 2 spare keys which had new batts and had been syncd days earlier, so I really need to bypass this immobiliser if anyone can PM me. Cant find these black/purple and yellow/red wires the immobilser module seems...

Nah mate batteries new and two key fobs doing same thing. Searches made on forums so far indicate faulty immobiliser and it needs bypassing which I am trying to find out how to do it. People refer to black/purple and yellow/red wires but the wires on the unit behind the passenger kick plate are...

Tried another key deffo immobiliser issue as leds flash alternately green and red when trying to start even though fob has unlocked car fine.

O Here we go again. Car broke down got brought home on flat back truck. Car wont start, turns over but wont start, NOT fuel pump, but immobiliser, even when unlocking with fob, the light on mirror goes to green, I try and start engine and it wont start just turns over and red and green...

Took instrument cluster apart again, soldered individual wires onto the speedo coil direct onto pcb bypassing the pins, and it has worked. But will obviously give the car a proper road test over the next few days :)