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Then why not mention all the extensive work done in the advert. This car will be a disaster for who ever buys it. It's dirt cheap for a reason.

Very bad MOT fail to PASS with flying colours in a matter of a few days. Don't even consider it.

Reassembled.

At the time Mercedes wanted $500 per bearing for replacement, but you can get SKF etc much cheaper. I tapped them in using the old outer race. Reassembly. Tapped on using the old inner race. From memory there was no hard end stop, so I set the depth to be the same as before...

Here are some of my pics. The dust shield is held in by a snap ring. Use a pick etc to get it out. There is them another snap ring. The bearing seals were in there tight. The puller was a fail for me and I had to use a 20ton press in the end. I used a bit of...

I purchased these ones, however similar are also available from Autodoc or the SLSHOP. I had planned to refurbish my original axles as the boots were just cracked and not split, but 11 years later they are still sitting in a dark corner of the shed gathering dust.

I have seen videos on YouTube etc showing new oil being added so try some searching there.

I ended up just buying aftermarket axles and fitting them, they were not expensive.

It took me a while to find the correct pn for the large bearing as it had no markings. If you Google 3816-B-2RS-TVH you will find prices from £20 to £120.

The solution was a bigger 20 ton press. I'll check on the bearing part number.

Have you tried Mercedes, I have bought a few from them as well as NOS on eBay etc. The SLshop also has them.

Thanks guys, I'll pass on the comments.

Just got this text from a mate, any thoughts? The merc I have. The DPF diesel particulate filter is causing an engine warning. Garage quoting £750 to replace and if we don’t possible £3.5k to fix later if it fails. Notice that there is a filter clean company about £200. Do the prices make...

If you have a mig welder then weld on nuts, the heat will help the remainder of the bolts break free.

It's worth doing a fuel pressure test of the WUR before opening it up. If the filters on the input side look ok (there are ~3 little wire mesh discs in there), then I would leave well alone. I changed my injectors and seats too but left the fuel distributer too as it was running fine.

EPC indicates these sizes below for your car, dependant on engine number (item 14 at the bottom of the pic). Perhaps a previous owner fitted the 960mm instead of the 1000mm.

Tesa 51036 is what you are looking for, it's designed for engine compartment use.

The centre console is bolted in here but my tabs had snapped off. So I improvised a couple of new brackets ( in the end I had to swap out the bolts for smaller dome headed ones as the fowled the heater levers). Bolted in place.

It's held in place by a couple of fasteners by the radio opening and one screw on the passenger side. I'll dig out some pictures later.

You really need to get hold of a fuel pressure tester that connects to the fuel distributer and warm up regulator to ensure they are working properly. If your not comfortable with that then find someone that is experienced with the bosch k-jet system, don't trust any old back street garage with...