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Used parts from pre face-lift vehicles are so much better quality that it can be worth the added hassle of minor corrosion repairs to get something that will both fit and last.

+1 for WYWH, and then +1 again for no con trails (and actually, +1 for the OPs Rioja) Steve

+1 for MBS

I have a 2014 Yeti with the 1.2 petrol engine and DSG gearbox and love it. The body configuration is very versatile, and the performance and economy more than adequate. Second hand prices have been somewhat inflated by the VW diesel saga, and also by the quite long gap between the last of the...

I bought Primacy 3's on account of the wet A rating, and frankly my previous Falken ZE912's were far superior. Best avoided. For my personal taste, the XL would be a bit harsh, but it does depend on personal driving style - although you would have to push very hard in order to necessitate the...

Definitely not Hammerite. Start with something that reacts to produce a non-corrosive skin on the metal - I like the dinitrol product range, but there are many. Most DIY jobs will leave that sort of damage looking quite poor, but if you don't want to face the cost of professional repair, then...

You really should take the plastic panel off, in order to see the extent of the problem. Rusting immediately under the top edge of the plastic is frequently quite localised, and relatively easy to deal with. However, if the door has lower window seals that leak, you can get rot at the bottom...

Assuming this is a w124 from the early nineties, the engine bay wiring loom and the wiring of the ETA must be suspect. If the MAF has been replaced, then the short section of loom leading to it may have crumbled internally with handling - this is easy and cheap to check and if necessary fix...

Odd faults can arise from partial failure of the wiring to the MAF sensor at the point where it clips to the back of the head. Generally the engine bay wiring loom isn't as fallible as on the M104 engine, but this particular location is is weakest spot. Splitting the outer case of the wiring...

I really like the ride quality of Contis on my e320 c124, but their life expectancy is only marginally better than your Dunlops. I don't want to think that its my driving style that's at fault - maybe these cars are just hard on their tyres.

That reminds me of one of those frighteningly accurate Amazon book recommendations: if you like 124s, you'll love Van the Man. Certainly works for me.

The 124 coupes are fine cars, but this may not be the one. Head gasket replacement is surprisingly costly and, as Charles Morgan says, all too likely to be needed. Check the rear screen for milkiness at its edges - another common and costly repair. Rust can be surprisingly hard to spot - but...

That's rather more informative than the general media reporting (no great surprise that that should be the case): the search for scapegoats seems more important than the search for reasons for the failure, a trap into which most countries seem to fall these days. There was an interesting snippet...

The on-board diagnostics may be a tad elementary, but in a case like this can provide very helpful clues, particularly if its only a coil pack or lead.

+1 for this : if the little plastic tube comes off its connector it makes a noise like a tractor for a minute or two on first start up, but is then not further enabled until the next start up. Its down next to the alternator, accessible from above if your arms are long enough - just push it back on.

Mine also reads consistently implausibly low, despite changing the thermostat. I find it less worrying than if it were consistently high....

Remember too that the seat backs unlock when their door is opened: most owners of coupes or cabriolets will have had to explain that to an MoT tester at some time. There's a good chance that you don't have a fault at all, just lack of familiarity.

Looks lovely, and has obviously been cherished, but it is at least possible that its still on its original head gasket, and its original loom, since they aren't specifically mentioned. However, if someone wants a car to turn into a near-perfect show queen, this would probably do it, and in that...

Hard to believe that the springs are correct.

It is often the case that the bumper insert (item 44 on the EPIC diagram) is all that is needed, and these are widely available on ebay for low prices - but the need spraying before fitting. A difficulty with scrapyard parts is that the insert tends to become brittle with time, so that a slight...