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Either do a search for glow plug relays, or for a member called 'Ruairiireland', sounds like a similar car and problem. I do seem to remember seeing posts on this before relating to the glow plug light on the dash flashing to indicate a problem .......... unfortunately the flesh is willing but...

Don't new injectors have to be 'coded' into the ECU with STAR so that they work correctly??

Not familiar with that model but would guess that your initial thoughts are correct, don't forget to also check the condition of idler bearings etc as these could also affect the condition. GL

I think that the correct question may be what causes the actuator to operate as I am reasonably sure that any system part which instigates 'limp mode' also disables the turbo. Not sure if any fuses are involved though but also does anything need to be reset in the STAR system after the actuator...

After my E220 rusted away from beneath me, and was not covered under the 25 year anti-perforation warranty because MB did not change the engine oil, I now really enjoy my Ford Mondeo ............... well done MB.

Take the bottom shock bolt out instead?

Perhaps you are becoming more sensitive to the gearbox changing down through the gears as you come to a stop. This can be very pronounced on some cars, certainly an A class that I test drove (no comparison made here) was very unnerving as the change into 1st at the last seconds produced a...

Dry bottom ball joints can also give this problem in my experience, I just had to replace them to confirm it.

I think that there may be a number of things that could cause this, first I would check that the throttle pedal is still connected to the transponder ..... it is usually a cable and on the cars if you get a friend to use the pedal while you look under the bonnet you should be able to check it...

Don't know if it is relevant to your car but have a look at this thread http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/77050-blue-efficiency-injector-recall.html

Be very careful when replacing the O ring as the pipes are often em-brittled and can crack easily. I am afraid that to bleed the system you will just have grit your teeth and keep cranking the engine until it starts ........ needs a good battery!

When I changed all the plastic fuel lines I my car I thought the battery was going to go flat before it would start, and yes I refilled the fuel filter as well, it took ages!

If you are not seeing a loss of any other fluids I would check for a split of displaced aircon drain?

Think that you may find it is part of the emission control.

This 'type' of compressor is what they used to change mine, have to say that it is a real learning curve and not for the faint hearted if it starts to slip around especially when you are compressing the new spring. Very sorry but I did not take note of the make of the compressor.

In the UK it does not get cold enough to warrant the glow plugs on a CDI, I ran mine all through last winter with no starting problems at all other than the light coming back on. I would just get the injector sorted,

You really need to post the mileage of your car together with wet & dry compression figures to get a true evaluation. A 1987 car may also have experienced embritlement of the valve stem seals which may give rise to the problem.

Sorry only just seen this, you need to totally de-adjust the park brake adjuster which is normally under the rear seat, then adjust the new parking brake shoes through the hole in the rear drums after which the automatic adjuster should operate correctly.

1) don't trust the figures from the trip computer, I have not yet had one of these that is accurate when compared to tank to tank mileage. 2) Average mpg on my 2001 w210 was 44 on reasonable, 30 mile runs not in town, and if I took it steady the best I could get was 50mpg, 45 with good squirt...

Loads of us fella, you just need to have a go, just watch out for the 'lips' on the discs.