Search results

Dude, try loosening them off (only) when the engine's hot. But under NO CIRCUMSTANCES remove them until the engine's cold - or there's a high risk of thermal distortion of the plug threads while the engine's cooling down. :)

Check you don't have piston blow-by. Is there much crankcase pressure at idle with the oil filler cap removed ? Is there oil staining around the dipstick outlet and oil filler neck ? Is there too much pressure when you remove the rocker vent pipe ? If there is, then your rings and/or cylinder...

Indeed. I should have just said never FEELS cold. Or maybe even - due to it's lower than leather density, specific heat capacity and thermal conductivity, is posssessed of a lesser capacity to freeze my fingers solid when it's bleed'n brass monkey's.

Nice option - but I use a .... DA-DA-DAAAAH .... steering wheel cover, which never actually gets cold. But that was inspired, Dieselman. ;)

Wow, fastest initial response of all time ! Thanks Phil. :thumb:

I'm thinking about buying a second W211 - and wondered what the bottom stalk does (column adjustment ?) : http://tinyurl.com/pzfuxzs

The 16 inchers fit no problems at all. Tried them on a friend's E250 Sport and no problems with fouling at lock, etc. :thumb:

I'm just about to invest in a W212 sport and was wondering if anyone could confirm that it'll take a set of 16-inchers. :)

Good luck with it.

Get the codes read. You can buy £10 code-readers on Flebay that'll show a good number of codes - but obviously nothing like the number a star computer will.

You may have a dead lamda/O2 sensor.

(Self) bump. :) Guys, where are you when I need you ?

W211 saloon - O/S/R tyre rapidly wearing on inside edge. Guru input requested. TIA :)

You're right - but not for the reason you state. Copper-grease and oil are both lubricants that will have very similar properties with respect to static friction. Axial tension in the bolts serves two purposes : 1. - Provides the clamping force necessary to prevent slippage between rim and hub...

Constructive post, mate.

If you're concerned about rims bonding to hubs (down the line) - with stubborn ones just loosen the wheelbolts a turn or two, take a wheelbrace with you, drive slowly down the road and as soon as you feel the bond break, retorque the bolts. With a friend walking alongside is best - in case any...

If that were true, engines wouldn't need oil. :D

What creates the resistance you're torquing against ? Solely friction at the bolt taper and threads. Reducing that friction increases axial tension in the bolt. If you could use a tensiometer to measure bolt load directly, you wouldn't bother with a torque wrench. Manuf's base calculations of...

I wouldn't sell the car just for that. Get your mech to give you a live tour of your front and rear suspension - and be as paranoid as you like. I'm sure he'll be more than happy to change any parts you request changed. And on a more philiosophical tangent, we all have to die some time. Look on...

Is that on an E55 ?