96 W/S 124 E200 remote central locking

[GSBellew]

Ok, I havent even gotten my 124 home yet but one of the issues to be sorted with it is the remote central locking which apparently has stopped working, it will open from the key in the passenger side lock but not from the button on the key itself. I know its a long shot, but does anyone know what I should be expecting to have to do to it to fix it?

Would I be better ignore the original MB remote central locking and have an aftermarket alarm fitted to operate it instead or could it be something simple like the keys having to be re-programed to the car again?

I have access to star diagnostics equipment if thats any use to me

Hopefully someone on here has had a similar problem and can point me in the right direction.

The car is a 96 124 E200 estate.

 

[imadoofus]

Have you tried replacing the batteries?

I checked out a couple of coupes with remote locking, and on them, it only worked within about a metre of the LED.

PJ

 

[GSBellew]

Have you tried replacing the batteries?

I checked out a couple of coupes with remote locking, and on them, it only worked within about a metre of the LED.

PJ

The car is on a car transporter somewhere in the Uk on its way back to its new home in Ireland so I have not even seen it yet, just getting ideas as to what it could be first, I suppose it would make sense to try batteries first, but I'm afraid it may be something more sinister as both key fobs apparently no longer work the locking.

Although I suppose I could be lucky!

 

[imadoofus]

Hopefully it's nothing sinister, but as I said, in my limited experience, the remote locking isn't actually very remote

PJ

 

[GSBellew]

Thanks for your help, I'll see how I get on with the car when it arrives, maybe it is nothing more than poor range afterall.

 

[bolide]

The factory remote locking with LEDs in the door handles, aka RCL, is infra-red and only works in line-of-sight. It doesn't work with the remote in your pocket...

If it doesn't work I'd suspect the remote key first and the system second

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[andy_k]

I'd go for replacing the batteries, remember they could be anything up to 10 years old.

Range isn't exactly great but with decent batteries expect up to about 5 or 6 metres with a clear line of sight - the further away you get the better aim you need

Andy
Andy

 

[grober]

You may have to resynchronise the keys with the locks provided you still have the original key remotes. THERE IS A WAY TO DO THIS USING THE PASSENGER DOOR LOCK. BUT RIGHT NOW AT 2am I HAVE FORGOTTEN THE DETAILS. try a search on the forum. I will try finding my previous post tomorrow.

 

[andy_k]

I don't think it's the passenger door - you need to use the boot lock

1, point the transmitter at the boot lock and press the button

2, within 30 seconds put the key in the ignition lock and turn it to position 2

you can check the state of the battery by holding down the button for a couple of seconds. If the battery is OK then a red light will show on the front of the unit

Andy

 

[grober]

Synchronising Keys In A 95/96 W124 Coupe

As Andy has indicated there are possibly several ways to synchronise genuine Mercedes original keys to the infrared remote locking system. My MB W124 handbook detailed a method involving the ignition switch only--IT DIDNT WORK!!
Another forum member PJH detailed a method using the passenger door lock on the coupe model but this should also work for the saloon and maybe the estate also?
This applies to the circa 95/96 models with the green/red LEDS in the drivers door lock position without the LEDS in the rearview mirror.
FIRST and important, best get new batteries for your remote. MERC seem to use 2 varta CR 2025 for the flip key type. Test the key is operating by pressing the button for a couple of seconds, a red light should show at the front of the unit after a slight delay as ANDY said. If you have a digital camera and you view this indicator thro the camera LCD display you should see a white light instantly you press the button since the LCD will pickup the infra red signal.
NOW go to the passenger door and make sure the car is locked.

1.point the remote at the lock at a distance of about 12 inches. PRESS the remote for 5 seconds.
2.unlock the door by turning the key in the lock
3. wait 10 seconds then remove the key.
4.repeat 1. for 5 seconds.
5.lock the door with the key
wait 10 seconds and remove the key.

Your key should now be synchronised with the remote locking and lock/unlock the car.

Be deliberate in your actions. check which way to turn the key to lock unlock the car before starting. Take time between steps.
this worked for me
Other synchronising methods may work. I tried several before the one I detailed worked. best to try it several times with slight variations to the timing till it works. GOOD LUCK.

edit:- PJH any comments??

 

[andy_k]

NOW go to the passenger door and make sure the car is locked.

1.point the remote at the lock at a distance of about 12 inches. PRESS the remote for 5 seconds.
2.unlock the door by turning the key in the lock
3. wait 10 seconds then remove the key.
4.repeat 1. for 5 seconds.
5.lock the door with the key
wait 10 seconds and remove the key.

Your key should now be synchronised with the remote locking and lock/unlock the car.

interesting but I'm confused why it should work because there is no receiver on the passenger door

The method I described was the one in the owners handbook for my 95 estate.

the camera infra red test can also be very misleading, it's something that used to work really well with the first and second generation cameras (up to about 2MP) but try it with later cameras (3MP and above) and the results will be erratic - an attempt by the camera manufacturers to reduce infra red contamination of images means this test probably won't work on a new camera.

Loads of info about infra red photography here

HTH

Andy

 

[PJH]

Another forum member PJH detailed a method using the passenger door lock on the coupe model but this should also work for the saloon and maybe the estate also?
.......
edit:- PJH any comments??

Thanks grober, that saves me searching for my old thread.
My remote is a Scorpion device and not the unit in andy_k's picture, but synchronised just the same.
The range with my keyfob is only about a vehicle's length but does extend using the 'Clarkson' method.

 

[andy_k]

The range with my keyfob is only about a vehicle's length but does extend using the 'Clarkson' method.

your's can't be infra red then like the factory fitted ones which would also explain why it synchronises on a door with no I/R sensor

 

[grober]

Its a mystery to me too

Andy
the Infrared test works on my Sony DSC P-200 7megapixel and comes thro as a white light.
PJH
My remote key is a factory one like Andy's MB one with the flip key. The remote locking is standard MB although I suspect the alarm/immobiliser is an aftermarket Scorpion.
Both
Dont know why it works because as you say there is no receiver in the passenger door. Maybe at very close range the signal gets "bounced" to a receiver somewhere else.
I tried many times to synchronise my key via the ignition key route without success. Maybe different in the coupes from estates?? Anyway thats what worked for me. I suppose the answer is to try both methods and hope one works.

 

[del320]

I have synchronised my keys as per instructions shown in Andy's post. (Page 118 in my manual). Also originally demonstrated to me at dealership.

It's also the case that my infrared has a range of about three feet max. I was told some old tosh that this was a deliberate safety feature to stop tea-leaves nicking stuff from cars which could otherwise be unlocked from halfway across the Tesco car park.

As, ultimately, the ability to turn off the immobilisor and start your car depends on two good CR 2025 batteries, I always have a spare, working fob secreted about the car. Thought I was dead clever having all angles covered - until the LED in the door failed....

 

[GSBellew]

Sorted by changing the batterys for a set that were in with the service books

At least it was something simple!!

 

[MotardMan]

Thought I was dead clever having all angles covered - until the LED in the door failed....

Oh no Del. My '94 Coupe E320 locks and unlocks via the RCL when pointed at the boot, but when pointed at the drivers door....

Was that the same deal for you?
Which bit did you have to replace to get it working?
I assume you had to resync when you replaced the LED unit?
Is there any way of testing the receiver in the door handle?

 

[Dave Lewis]

Thanks for resurrecting this thread Motardman - the LED receptor thingy in my tailgate is U/S - inconveniently. I would also like to know the procedure for replacement and resyncing. I have spare batteries secreted too, and I'm still waiting for the previous owner to send me the spare keyfob.

 

[MotardMan]

I see you are a local man Dave, maybe we can get a bulk buy discount when the bits are ordered? ;o)

You are lucky in having access to a spare fob, the dealer has only one key and I have no idea if the fobs/keys are still available. Mine is the older, larger type of fob, anyone know if you can still get them. It would save a fight situation when SWMBO and I go for the single key....... LOL.

I have the resync instructions from the workshop manual on PDF, do you want me to mail them to you Dave?

 

[Dave Lewis]

The pdf would be very handy, thanks. I'll PM you my addy.
I have 3 different MB documents in the handbook concerning the RCL, all of which are different, and none of which seem to apply to my car (W124 1996 E280T)
The immobiliser comes on automatically 30 seconds after opening the door, unless the key is put in the ignition and turned to the first position. Also inconvenient.
I'll believe I have a spare fob when I see it! I'm a bit nervous of only having the one.....