Any tips for blowing in with rattle cans ?

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poormansporsche

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alright peeps,

on my rear arch, ive rust treated, primered and painted and compounded so its nice and smooth but just need to blow over the edge of the lip a bit and laquer. I was thinking of shoving shed loads of wax beforehand on the bits that will get overspray and then compound off ? any other tips as dont really want a tape line ?

cheers

brett
 
The best tip I've got for u is DONT DO IT!!! Lol. Could open a can of worms.
 
Before you even think about painting it, angle grind the metal so that there is not a single patch of rust/black area so that you are left with only bare metal (will envolve removing the wheel).

Whenever I have done mine I have done it in a dry location like a garage (not on a street as per your previous thread). and take your time eg: a good few days.

Each coat needs at least 10 hours or so between them. Then after you have finished the top coat wait a couple of days and start T-Cutting it long enough that you make a shiney, hard finish - this will take hours of elbow grease.

Rush any part what so ever and the rust will return.
 
What colour? If working in colder conditions collect a few empty 1 litre milk/juice cartons - the ones with the square cross section- and partially fill with warm water from the tap - stick the spray can in there for 10 minutes - helps keep the can warm which will help disperse the paint when you do the "maracas manoeuvre " = the can shaking/agitating bit prior to spraying- always use a test spray card everytime to make sure the paint is coming out with the right consistency before turning to the car. Correct masking of the area to be sprayed and then practice broad sweeping fairly rapid movement across the area to be sprayed- basically you start the movement before depressing the spray plunger and shut off before stopping moving. movement start-spray- movement stop. Many light passes to avoid runs- keeping the working area warm with a hair drier helps also.
 
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Thick (i.e. not too runny) washing-up liquid, carefully applied with a brush, makes a good mask if you are compounding afterwards to blend a repair in. Once the paint is on, it just washes off with water -no effort involved.
 
To avoid a hard tape line on the clear coat, use wide masking tape slight above the mask line but only stick down the top edge. Then fold up the unstuck edge and use more tape to secure it in place. This will give you a tube of masking tape along the mask line. The round radius of the tape tube help limit clear building up on the mask line so you don't end up with a step in the clear coat between old and new. You may still need to lightly blow over the masked edge once the tape is removed, then compound to make it seamless.
 
Mask the area,but stick the paper or whatever you are using away from the repair,then
roll the edge back to reveal the area,this will give you a soft edge and help fading in.
Warming the paint as grober says,also helps the paint mix in metallic paint,warm the panel
too,to avoid paint shrink(hot air gun/wifes hairdryer),clean any wax from the area(her washing up liquid),and good luck silver can be a B to match.
 
cheers for that.

Its only a old banger UAV really so theres not much point paying to have it done properly

The arch was not actually rusty its just that it sometime in its life had C36 arch spats that have been removed taking off the paint and leaving blobs of the adhesive tape there and some bright spark just sprayed over it adhesive and all !

I sanded a thin strip down to the bare metal which was rust free, then did about a coat of anti rust primer then about 5 coats of normal primer, sanding inbetween to blend in. I then did about 4 coats of colour with tape sanding and compounding inbetween so now there isnt much of a tape line.

Will give the washing up liquid method a go !
 
I've done this free hand...no tape etc...just make sure to spray away from the areas you don't want covered.
 

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