Caravan Nut at 290Nm undo & redo + or - 3% help

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tjamesbo

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Jan 6, 2007
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Location
Sutton Coldfield Midlands
Car
CLK430 ,Vito V6 sport ,Jaguar 2.5 X type ,W124's 1993 220TE , 1994 320TE ,Mastercraft X5
Going to check my caravan Brake Drum Shoes and discover its what they call a Euroaxle which means No split pin on the Hub Nut but a one time fit /one shot only self locking nut, which when refitted has to be torqued up to 290 Nm or 214lbs ft + or - 3% :eek:
so;
1 I first need to get myself a 36mm Socket presumably a hex impact socket is the best choice
2 with that torque will a half inch drive be ok or should i be looking at 3/4 drive ?
3 what sort of length breaker will i need to get it off ? or is my 240V machine mart impact driver likely to be able to remove it
4 will i be able to to get a torque wrench that accurately can do this at a worthwhile cost ( probable use = twice ) or should i just tighten it up and roll round to my caravan dealer and get them to torque it up ( prearrange of course - its about 3mls away)

all advice appreciated
Boyd
 
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That's a 3/4 sized torque. Imagine 214lbs (or two hundredweight) bearing on the end of a 1ft lever, that's the level of effort. One shot nuts means it needs new ones every time so not refitted but renewed.
 
You should be able to hire a torque wrench that will reach that sort of figure, but it will indeed be a 3/4 in socket needed. If the nut is ludicrously expensive, locking compound is a viable alternative; I've used it many times (though not with that sort of torque setting) and never had one come loose yet in forty years.
 
Should be about £10 for two nuts. I think they are a form of stretch nut maybe relying on the wide flange to buckle slightly and provide the locking moment. I much prefer the old fashioned split pin...but that's progress for you.
 
I've ordered the nut a sealey hex impact looking at breaker bars now probably the draper expert extendable 3/4 drive extends to 770mm costs racking up now for one nut :eek: its becoming harder and harder to DIY thesedays much easier to go to the dealers and just open your wallet :eek:
 
We ended up buying a Teng Torque wrench that goes up to 450Nm a while back when we were doing our Transit, think the hub nut torque was something like 425Nm.

It was around £150 but has been invaluable after doing a few more wheel bearings and hubs.

Interestingly none of the local indies we are friendly with had "any" torque wrenches that could go anywhere close to what we needed.
 
Brings to mind a throw-away remark from a friend of mine (an F1 mechanic!), working on a 100cc kart many years ago..

"Marc, what's 11 Nm on an M6 socket cap?" - "Four fingers till it goes soft, then back it off a bit"

Cheers,

Plug
 
I am wondering what??????? needs 214ft lbs of torque????? most wheel bearings are nowhere near that its adjust until the bearing play or end float is correct therfore cant be squeezing the bearings with that torque, and its not required to stop the wheel falling off so what the f**k is it required for ????????? - to make sure we go to a dealer ????
 
Ref ALKO: "Maintenance of Euro-Plus/EuroCompact and Euro-Delta. The above semi-trailing axles come fitted with maintenance free wheel bearings (greased and sealed for life) and no adjustment is necessary." ................have'nt we heard that before with Merc & BMW autoboxes Life in Human terms is somewhere around the Mid 70's so presumably my bearing will last that long without any maintenance
 
I think it is required to stop the wheel falling off. If you remove the nut does the hub/drum come off the axle? The bearings will be straight roller rather than taper roller. Only taper rollers need adjusting.
 
I have those ALKO hubs on my boat trailer. I bought the boat and trailer 5 years ago and not knowing the history left the trailer in to have it serviced before taking it on a 100 mile trip. 50 miles in the bearing is squealing like a banshee. No option but to continue. Got the boat in the water and took the trailer around to a mechanic who spent a week on it with new bearing and locknut.
Same bearing went again on the way home. Was told I couldn't do it myself as it need a ridiculous something press for the bearing. Anyway I now had the boat on the trailer so little option.
Bought the parts from ebay and took the old one out with a lot of banging and swearing. Turns out the 2nd guy hadn't used a genuine bearing and probably crushed it. Managed to press a new bearing in very carefully. I just tightend up the new locknut with a 6ft lenght of steel bar.
Seemed tight enough to me and hasn't given any trouble since.

Lesson learned - somethings are best left unserviced.
 

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