CD220i won't start when cold, noisy

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wingreen

New Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2010
Messages
14
Location
Anglesey
Car
Mercedes CD220i
My CD220i takes ages to start on a cold morning (if at all). The engine is incredibly noisy too, especially when idling. When it does finally start, it seems to be OK though. No warning lights.
About 2 months ago glowplug warning light wouldn't go out. Local garage relaced two heater plugs (but unable to remove the other two). Ever since I got it back the engine sounded much noisier and felt a bit like "hunting" when ticking over. (Could something the garage did be connected to the cold starting problem?)
Its been suggested to me that, if I run a Bosch disagnostic on the car, that will identify the problem. Would it? Or any experts here have any ideas on what might be the cause? (Local garage said that the worst case scenario is that its a compression problem - which meant a new engine!!!)
Help!
 
I would think it is more likely that the plastic diesel pipes have been disturbed while fitting the glowplugs allowing air to get in which will give the symptoms that you describe. These pipes embrittle with age and can crack very easily, I had to replace all of mine when fitting a new thermostat!
 
Well, I took the plunge and went to an indie. Booked in for STAR diagnosis - though I don't think they did that. They did investigate starting problems and noisy idle and came up with following:

1. Injector 3 needs replacing
2. Alternator Free wheel seized
3. Air Box internal and external rubber mountings worn/damaged

Quoted £510 to do the work but, if the seized pulley has damaged the alternator, then it will need a new (lucas) alternator and cost £925. Ho hum......!

I did notice that it was quite "messy" around Number 1 injector (the reconditioned Bosch injector that was fitted about 13 months ago by a local non-specialist) and I suppose that's not a good sign.

Thanks to all for your help. I think I'll have to bite the bullet and take the car back to the indie, rather than explore a cheaper (local garage) option.
 
That's alot of money! Injector is around £150, pulley no more than £70, rubbers £5 will take around an hour to complete.
 
I thought so too. Injector £174, Seal Ring £1.20, Fixing bolt £1.56, Fuel Line £32.76, Labour £72.
Alternator Pulley £104, Belt £38.40, Labour £86.40.

If its alternator I need then no need for the pulley (it comes as part of alternator apparently) but would be £390 plus £216 labour.
 
I would get a second opinion, im fairly certain it will be the clear pipes as mentioned above.
The other items may be an issue but not likely causing your issue.
 
If it was the clear pipes, is it "just" matter of replacing the pipe...or the "seals"? (I noticed the garage had included new fuel line in their quote - which, as far as I know, wouldn't be needed if replacing injector or alternator pulley).
Car is starting OK at the moment (though weather much warmer) - although still very noisy when ticking over.
Would the "problem" still show up even when its starting OK? i.e. would I still see bubbles?
 
The pipes and the seals are together... They are worth changing for the £60-80 they cost for the set.

If your alternator pulley really is seized that needs to be done...

Id be interested to know how they diagnosed the injector... one injector being a little down may cause a knocking noise and/or a lumpy idle with excess black smoke but probably wouldnt affect starting.
 
OK, thanks. And would the bubles still show up, even though starting OKish?
I agree about the alternator pulley - and getting a price from my local garage for doing that (on basis that don't need a specialist).
I've no idea how they diagnosed the injector. I did take to the garage on the basis that there were two problems - 1. difficult starting when VERY cold and 2. noisy/lumpy idle. So I think, to be fair, they are saying that all that work needs doing in order to "cure" both problems.
 
I think I still need injector and alternator pulley done (because of the very noisy idling) but, this (cold) morning, I did check fuel line before trying to start - and found an air bubble in it! I know this contributes (if not whole cause of) cold start problem - but is it just matter of replacing that bit of fuel line? Or do I need to replace anything else? (seals, other sections of fuel line? etc?)
 
As Jay said, it is better to change them as a set as they are probably all brittle and you may 'crack' another while changing the one you saw a bubble in ......... in my case it went about 5 miles before needing a piggyback on a low loader which cost more than the pipes! If you do them yourself note the sequence that they are taken off as you will have to replace them in the reverse order or stress will follow. And don't forget to get the plastic support clip that fits under the fuel pump. Good luck.
 
Thanks for that - will do.
This is probably a silly question but, over next few days (before I can get my car booked in to get the work done) would warming up the top of the engine (the fuel lines?) with, say, a hair dryer, help if I can't start when its cold?! Maybe its a stupid question - but I am serious.
 
Sounds very imaginative ......... but I can't see what it will do to eliminate the air bubbles which are the source of the problem.
 
Ummmmm.......I thought the air was getting in because, when its cold, pipes/seals get bit brittle, letting air in. I thought that, if I warmed the area up, they'd be less likely to let air in. Have I lost the plot?!
 
I think that you will find that the air gets in as the system cools down (overnight) and as the diesel contracts it is easier for air to enter the system at the 'cracks' rather than pull fuel all the way from the tank, therefore, for your theory to work you would need a very big hair dryer to keep everything warm, a very understanding wife, much stamina and a cracking electric contract ...........
 
Ah.....good point (my O level physics now coming into gear!). I won't bother giving it a try then - especially as I have none of the elements you mention!
 

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