Central Heating advice - how do I lower the pressure ?

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Hi. I once had a service valve leak while on holiday, and the filling loop was left off, Disaster zone! They tend to do this with age and the fact they are not used too often, so i always leave the loop on, it cant harm anything at all, just to be safe.
geoff.

you need to have anti back flow protection like a Air gap ....you have your drinking water supply connected to a boiler .. do you like drinking fernox ..... and i don't think the rest of the street would be to happy either .... that is a contrevention water :rolleyes: regulatory by-laws
 
you need to have anti back flow protection like a Air gap ....you have your drinking water supply connected to a boiler .. do you like drinking fernox ..... and i don't think the rest of the street would be to happy either .... that is a contrevention water :rolleyes: regulatory by-laws
I see where you are coming from, but if i have the loop drained, and both taps turned off, how would the water transfer to the drinking water?
I would not leave the loop full of water under pressure if thats what you are thinking.
Geoff
 
Hi Geoff,

I have closed the valve and removed the flexible hose and put it into a bucket. So far so good as no water has gushed out.

However when I turn the valve on the other end it's not doing anything ie water is not coming out. In fact I can screw it quite a few turns and nothing happens. The pressure still reads 3.2 - the boiler is switched off.

Daft question - should the boiler be switched off ?

One thing I did do last night was turn the water off so I could remove the hose and re-screw it on.

Is that something to do with why water is not coming out of the pipe (so I can lower the pressure).
 
The water has to be on and the boiler has to be on so that you can read the gauge, while you are turning the screw
 
ta mate. just turned it on and pressure has dropped to 2.5.
 
....at the risk of getting a bit boring now.....

oh I give up :(

The pressure has gone up to about 4 now after turning the boiler on.

I'm turning the other valve (see attached piccie) and nothing happens - no water comes out :(

I've turned it a few times both ways and nothing.

There is no other lever or screw I can turn.

So basically now I have managed to get the flexible pipe out and no water comes out of the pipe it was connected to as I shut the valve.

However I now can't get water out of the dangling pipe because the screw valve doesn't seem to do anything.

Any ideas ? (sigh)
 

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you are on track . I thought yiou said the pressure dropped. is the water on?
 
When I turned the boiler on it dropped to 2.5 and then rose again.
What's worrying is that the screw valve doesn't seem to do a thing although next to it is a raised nut. I'm wondering what that is for ?
 
Hi, Circled is little screw I turned to increase the pressure a while back. I could hear the water flow through and the pressure rise.

Another piccie shows all the plastic levers and they are the same size.

One of the levers sort of routes to the pipe where the water rushed out.

The dangly pipe was connected to the end which has the circle on it and it's when I took it off all hell broke loose.

if the water gushed out of end 2 then the pipe should be dangling from end 1. the water should gush from end 2 through the hose into the pan so try playing with the valve on end 2 and unclip the hose from the other end. #Is that possible?
 
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I have an idea.If you can find the expansion vessel at the top of the boiler at the back.It has a valve on it much like a valve for a car/bike tyre.If you press it in and air comes out, it might ok. If water comes out the system will need re-pressurising.don't do this too often as it will drastically reduce the efficiency of the boiler,but will possibly rule out 1 problem that Im thinking of.
 
I am now confused myself. I know for sure one valve is for outlet water coming out of the house supply and another valve is for flowing into the boiler.
We just have to figure out which is which.
I would say the valve that is gushing out water is the one that is conected to the home water supply and that side should be fastened tightly and not dangling.
The other side is the inlet to the boiler and that should dangle.
 
Gary, please tell me that you are going to stop right now?. Its late, the situation is becoming confusing, and you might end up causing yourself some serious trouble and damaging your boiler at the very least, it wont like 4 bar nor will your system or, ultimately, your decorations. Not only that, but following this thread is now giving me the willies.

Let me come over on Saturday?, turn off the leccy to the boiler, turn off any thermostats, close both valves on the filling loop, ring me at work in the morning say nine'ish?, you have my number.

Regards.

David.
 
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Sorted !!! My mate who fitted it finally rang me and told me to bleed a radiator for two minutes. The pressure is now reducing. I had mistakenly thought that the radiator had to have air coming out of it for there to be a problem. Because water came out straight away I thought I didn't need to bleed it. All is ok now phew...


Thanks again everyone....:)
 
At risk of reviving an old (ancient?) thread, especially after not visiting for a few years or so :eek:

I was woken up this morning by the rads, in turn making a loud bang, presumably when they were at melting point! Looked at the boiler gauge and it was off the scale, maxed, it's gonna blow captain, type pressure.

Quickly googled the issue and this thread was about fourth from the top. Followed Geoff's 'guide' and all is now well :banana:

Top work.

Incidentally, I'm thinking of getting a C220 CDI Estate in the not too distant future, I may be back.

Cheers

Mike
 

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