CLS window regulator snapped cable repair DIY

[n13]

Original thread for discussion can be found here http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/part...indow-regulator-snapped-cable-repair-diy.html
Push window down button for the driver side... *grind grind grind* window still up.

Ok. Regulator replacement time... how much?? About £100 on eBay and close to £250 for a new one. + Fitting?? I think I’ll have a see what’s wrong with it first:

Things you will probably need:

TX30, 25, 20
Panel removal tools


Removing CLS door card/panel:

-follow guide here

User: jparrott
File: Door card guide

Or Mercedes way here

Once the card is off, be careful with the wires, I disconnected them all makes things a lot easier.

Put the now removed card out of the way.


Removing regulator

I detached the motor from the regulator and pushed the window down to remove its clamping arrangement (thinking back, I should have marked up where the window is and where all the plates are). And then lifted the window right up and hooked its front mounting section over the seal.

Mercedes way: here

The nut near the door handle is accessed behind a small bung in the end of the door (90 degrees to the rest of the nuts) this nut only needs to be loosened but I just removed it...

The other 3 nuts are easy to find and remove.

It is a bit of a fiddle to remove the regulator but took me a min or so to solve the puzzle.


Once it’s out and you have the broken regulator:

Inside the house where it is warmer (including some bits I needed):

I found the cable a local car/bicycle parts shop (motor mania) I’m not sure what the cable is for as it had no sheath and both ends were terminated? But the critical parts were correct: 1.5mm diameter and 3m long is a good length.

Here is my plan of what the situation was:

the length of the wires is critical, ensure the crimps are positioned at the right length (deduct the length of the crimp if measure total length or slide crimp up to measured length as its the internal dimension which is critical)

Also before crimping anything, ensure all sheaths and other parts are on the cable beforehand! (I forgot at one point and had to file a crimp off)

I made the crimps out of aluminium about 6mm dia with a 1.6mm hole in the middle about 5 or 6mm long.

You will need 5 crimps in total.

Take a full dimensional survey before snipping anything as your wires maybe different lengths, as it happens all the dimensions I took turned out to be 940mm (see above)

I had to do lots of filing to get the new crimps to fit in the various slots.

I tried electrical crimps, but these pulled off:

I did have some trouble fitting the cable length adjuster, as it has some ratchet device in it, which makes it impossible to compress the spring fully if the cable is inserted. Therefore you have to compress the spring then insert the cable BEFORE you crimp the end...

Once all the cables are sorted you can start to reassemble the regulator:

It’s the same as disassembly, but winding the cable onto the wheel can be tricky especially scene as both wires need to be on at the same time.

Wind the cable coming from the top of the regulator first (with both sliders in the "up" position) should take 3/4 turns. The cable coming from the bottom of the regulator should go around maybe 0.25 of a turn (ensure the spring is still fully squashed on the length adjustment) once that's complete, you can release tension on the spring.

Double check the slide is being held by the crimp on the single crimp side and its pretty much ready to go... after some greasing!! I only had silicone grease:

Move the sliders up and down to ensure they work ok.


Refitting regulator

It goes back in the same way. I tried to line up the nuts with the marks that were previously there to ensure the regulator goes back in the same place. (As the window alignment will take a while) align and marking on the window if done so.

Once it’s all bolted in, reconnect the wiring for the regulator motor and the door card (should be able to have the door open on the 1st click and still have all the wires connected) just be very careful with the little ribbon cables for the door lights. These rip off very easily if the door card drops (I know)

Now a test can be conducted, followed by lots of adjustments. Ensure the window is in the same place as it was when the motor was disconnected (in my case it was up - as I pushed the window back down)

When testing the window with the door closed (to check seal) you will need the little black piece of plastic from around the door latching mechanism fitted, as this pushed the door closed switch. And operated the little movement that occurs when the door is closed. (Took me a little time to figure that out)


and that's pretty much it.

a £2 cable and a couple of hours doing something i find fun. win win situation.


hope it helps somebody else as it seems to be fault everybody will see at some point.

 

[Sjw]

Thank you for posting this fitted a new regulator today would never have managed it without you information saved me lots of money . Thanks again

 

[Zulu 10]

Thank you for a brilliant write up. I’ve just repaired my CLS and would offer a few extra tips if that’s ok:

1) The length adjuster needn’t be held together with ty-wraps: it has a small drilling in the outer body and a corresponding hole in the inner. Before threading the cable through, the two can be held together against the spring pressure trying to separate them, and a pin inserted to lock the two parts in the compressed position.

2) Conversely I did use a pair of ty-wraps to hold together the cable tensioner whilst reassembling: One ty-wrap around the collar of the tensioner, and a second to hold that tight into the winder body through one of its mounting holes.

3) I found that the plastic lugs that normally hold the winder body onto the rear metal pillar were so brittle that they had snapped during disassembly, so I used a single ty-wrap to hold the winder body to the metal bracket when manoeuvring it all back into place. (I bolted the motor to the winder only once everything else was back in the door and bolted up, and after I had connect the glass and made sure that everything was free to move.)

4) I found that normal bicycle cable is rather stiffer than the original M-B cable and a bit of searching led me to a company in Somerset called Tecni Cable www.tecni-cable.co.uk who sell extra flexible 7x19 stainless wire rope 1.5mm diameter for about a £1 per metre (their part number is 604-00-015) and 1.5mm stainless ferrules (208-606-015) at £1.30 each.
I tried using their cheaper copper ferrules but to no avail – the only ones that work are the stainless ones crimped hard in a vice!
(By the way I have no connection with them – just a very satisfied customer – their delivery was within 24 hours)

5) Strangely, the lengths of the original cables on my car didn’t match those of the OP’s drawing so I’d suggest that anyone else tries to measure their old cables if at all possible.

6) I couldn’t find a cat so instead I used to some bubble wrap to prevent subsequent door rattles!

Once again many thanks to the OP.

 

[V12]

Forums need more threads like this and more people like you!!!

 

[Sp!ke]

Agreed - great post N13. A copy will be put in the "How To" section.

On a different note, I feel saddened that Mercedes have designed this mechanism with a cable and plastic and not metal gears. It is a good example of hidden cost cutting measures being imposed on the marque.