DOT 4 + BRAKE FLUID

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johnsco

MB Enthusiast
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Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,667
Location
Leeds, West Yorkshire
Car
E280CDI SPORTS ESTATE and C200 KOMPRESSOR SE Coupe Auto (1.8 lit petrol)
I'm sure this question must have been asked many times here - But the "search" box does not call it up.
My MB specifies the above brake fluid.
Can anyone advise the Euro Car Parts equivalent ?
Will it mix OK ?
I need quite a bit, as the brake system could really do with a fluid change.
Thanks.
John
 
I just changed my brake fluid and used Brembo .5 took just over 1 Ltr to do the job. If you suck the fluid out of the reservoir before you start it will save you having to pump it all the way through the system.
 
I used ATE SL6 which is the correct low viscosity fluid. The problem with these new fluids is that although there is a European specification, DOT don't have a standard for them yet so they are marketed under different names; DOT4+ DOT 4 super etc. ECP stock this ATE SL6 fluid.
 
Thanks Trickythemerc and Thanks 190 for your helpful replies.
I'm going to ECP tomorrow morning, so I'll probably go for the ATE SL6 fluid.
I'll certainly syphon off the excess fluid before I start in order to reduce the amount of pumping required.
 
If you have the time and are not in a hurry, one benefit of the low viscosity fluid is it will gravity bleed i.e. no need to pump just attach a flexible tube and open the nipple, gravity will do the rest. The fronts will bleed relatively quickly but the rears do take a while. I like to use this method in preference to vacuum bleeding as it's essentially foolproof with no risk of introducing air as long as the reservoir is kept topped up. On the other hand if you have a pressure bleeder that will be much quicker.
 
Hi 190 ... I bought 2 litres of SL6 from ECP this morning.
They've had a discounting weekend and it only cost me £14.30 (incl. VAT) for 2 litres.
Pretty good compared with some prices I've seen.

I usually pump the brake fluid thru the system using the pedal, and use a flexible tube with a self-sealing end.
I immerse this in a collecting jar half-full of old brake fluid, so that it does not draw back.
Obviously - I keep the reservoir topped up.

I've bled a number of MB 210s and previous to that, a 126 using the above method.
Are there any major differences in bleeding the W211 E280 CDI Sport ?
I don't have a pressure bleeder.

I've got the brake-wear indicator on the dash display.
It goes out when I press the reset button to the left of the display.
Can I get rid of this by resetting the service indicator (which I do know how to do), or will the car have to be plugged in ?

Thanks again for any advice or help.
John
:)
 
You’re brake pads have warn out, that is why the indicator is on, when you change the pads, which you need to do ASAP, you will also need to change the brake pad wear indicator sensor, then your light will go out automatically
 
"You’re brake pads have warn out, that is why the indicator is on, when you change the pads, which you need to do ASAP, you will also need to change the brake pad wear indicator sensor, then your light will go out automatically"
Thanks Buddy.
Yes I know that ... I'm going to change the brake pads and the discs and the wear sensor ... I've got the parts to do it
My concern with this car is that the ecu would remember the fault, and the light would not go out when I replaced the wear sensor, and that I would have to plug the car in to get it reset.
I'm relieved to hear that it will reset automatically when I refit the brakes.
 

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