E55 Heat soak

[benlucas]

Hi - was out for a drive yesterday and decided to give it the works on an empty stretch of dual carriageway near me. First pull approx 10 seconds WOT was rapid as expected, then tried again a few seconds later and it felt like someone had stolen the supercharger i.e. the revs rose rather sedately but the performance had gone.

Cruised for a couple of minutes then tried again - power now back.

My understanding is that the inter-cooler pump is fubarred, so looked online for a replacement. A bit of searching found this which is the newer Bosch pump part no. 0 392 022 010 with a higher flow rate. Decent price too - £108 inc. shipping & customs charges from the US. Hate to think what a stealer would charge!

Did consider the Johnson CM30 but after reading various reviews/tests, there's no real performance difference between it and the current Bosch. Both seem decent items.

Looking forward to having it fitted

 

[merc85]

I had this after a few pulls, Then i fitted a Larger H/E as i was already runing a Johnsons cm30 Pump, problem solved.

 

[AMGeed]

There is a place in the UK selling them for £100 if you haven't ordered yet
BOSCH 0 392 022 010 Water Pump, parking heater — £111,98

 

[benlucas]

They appear to be based in Germany. Need to add £8.45 shipping to that, so no difference in price although it should arrive quicker! Will bookmark them for future purchases. Already ordered mine but thanks for the heads-up

 

[AMGeed]

They appear to be based in Germany. Need to add £8.45 shipping to that, so no difference in price although it should arrive quicker! Will bookmark them for future purchases. Already ordered mine but thanks for the heads-up

Ah, it was the co.uk URL that made me think it was in the UK.
Hopefully your USA one will arrive quickly.

 

[benlucas]

Was browsing the site and they're offering 17% off all items until 11pm BST so I cancelled my US order and placed a new one. Nice one, thanks

 

[nickjonesn4]

10 seconds WOT is pretty brave with the Polis about!

 

[benlucas]

10 seconds WOT is pretty brave with the Polis about!

On a private road of course.

 

[benlucas]

Thinking of putting on my brave trousers and having a go at replacing it. Done a bit of research and so I understand swapping the pump is a case of removing the mounting bracket, clamping 2 hoses, unplugging the power connector, swapping the pumps and connecting everything back up. The next bit I believe is bleeding the system although some say it self-bleeds whereas others that you need to bleed it with a length of hose. Any hints/tips greatly appreciated as I don't want to fit the pump then find air bubbles in the system that I can't get rid of! Would it damage the pump if it were driven like this, say to my garage for them to bleed if it came to it?

TIA

Ben

 

[jjcodex]

If you have a look at my post about the same issue on my SL somebody posted a video of exactly what you are talking about.

It involves connecting a clear hose between the bleed off connector and the header tank and putting 12v across your new pup until all bubbles gone.

Give me a tick and I will try to post a link - it goes through the whole process.

J

 

[jjcodex]

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Also for reference, I am having mine done by my local indy. He advises that Mercedes now do an exchange unit on this pu,p for 130 plus vat. The benefit here is that this part would then be covered by the merc 2 year part warranty.

Bes to check for yourself but o opted to go for this option as the extra cost I felt was justified to keep it standard and to have the oem.

Food for thought and hth.

James

 

[benlucas]

Thanks for the advice & video (which is really helpful btw.) I'm going to have a crack at it myself; changing the pump should be straightforward and I'll ensure I clamp the hoses properly to avoid losing coolant. I don't have access to a spare battery to run the pump although I have read on MBWorld that an alternative to this is to let the car warm up to normal operating temperature, connect the hose per the video, clamp the return line below the bleed nipple, then turn the a/c to hot which will purge the air bubbles.

 

[jjcodex]

Possibly right though i would have thought that you could run cables from the battery in the front of your car? (Can't think why this would be an issue assuming the loom is still not connected - would be no different to connecting a lead lamp and then ensures no bubbles before restart)

 

[benlucas]

All done. Took about half an hour to bleed with the engine running. As outside temp was fairly low when I bled it, the coolant temp didn't get much above an indicated 70 which initially led to a very slow flow of coolant through the 5/16" clear tubing, although giving it some revs kick-started it and soon it was flowing quickly. Clamping the lower part of the hose (below the bleed nipple) helped purge the final tiny air bubbles and eventually it was clear.

Took it out this morning for a test and despite running 3 back-to-back WOT pulls, the ecu hasn't spoiled the fun.

No leaks either - those self-locking clips were a pain in the but though, especially as I was doing all this on the road. Still, saved me labour charges so I'm happy

 

[jjcodex]

Fair play for doing on the deck- I had the same issue resolved on my SL55 and all is well with mine too!

Well done mate- enjoy the motor

 

[benlucas]

Thanks! Glad to hear yours is OK

Latest pump ordered from Autodoc GmbH / Bestpartstore.co.uk. Total cost was €104.84 (£92) including delivery from Germany plus €3.45 insurance i.e. I could change my mind for any reason and they'll arrange to collect & refund.

 

[Mondayo]

I've just found this thread.....having the same issue as benlucas.

Ben, did it fix your problem, on a permanent basis? Obviously I don't get to go WOT on a regular basis but I've been having that issue for a while now...at a recent service had all the fault codes cleared, to see if anything got flagged up.
It happened again the other day....I was doing a cross country blat, and on the third or fourth overtake the power went. Then a few miles later, all was well again.

 

[benlucas]

I've just found this thread.....having the same issue as benlucas.

Ben, did it fix your problem, on a permanent basis? Obviously I don't get to go WOT on a regular basis but I've been having that issue for a while now...at a recent service had all the fault codes cleared, to see if anything got flagged up.
It happened again the other day....I was doing a cross country blat, and on the third or fourth overtake the power went. Then a few miles later, all was well again.

It's been around 6 months since I fitted the new pump and like you I don't WOT very often, although I have since carried out 2-3 back to back hard pulls several times and had to back off as it just piles on the speed. Definitely no supercharger disengaging now, so it was without doubt the i/c pump. With my dead/dying pump I would have to leave it a few minutes for the inlet temperatures to drop before I could go again.

Having said that, the car's going to MSL in 2 weeks with the aim being around 600hp/650+lb/ft. The extra heat generated by the tuning will be too much even for the latest Bosch/Johnsons pump alone, which is why I'm also having a KillerChiller installed. However, for a stock car, changing the pump makes a big difference (I certainly noticed) and I thoroughly recommend it.

HTH

 

[jamiet1986]

very easy to change if you have any mechanical skill you will do it easy. Don't get a Johnston's personal opinion is they aren't good compared to the new Bosch. or even better go for a pierberg

 

[jjcodex]

FWIW mine also remains tip-top and is regularly tested!

@benlucas - do report back after your trip to MSL - I am sorely tempted to do something!!!!

JJ