Familiar E55 W211 Moved to New Home Further North

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Why are you replacing the piston ring is it losing pressure, if so check the valve block lines & the block itself. These can become porous, paint it with lacquer & help seal the alloy.
 
Sorry dude, Didn't mean to jinx it :/ doh.... Just thought it was worth letting you know you have to take it easy, I couldn't be bothered both snapped and well it was the Original so replaced it, Also being in the Parts trade it makes more sense cost wise.

Turns out mine had worn due to the front struts leaking causing the pump to run overtime. Again all of these cars are getting on so bits n pieces need replacing.
 
Why are you replacing the piston ring is it losing pressure, if so check the valve block lines & the block itself. These can become porous, paint it with lacquer & help seal the alloy.

Nothing noticeable but I'm a glutten for punishment. :)

Never though about the valve body but good idea about lacquer. ^
 
Sorry dude, Didn't mean to jinx it :/ doh.... Just thought it was worth letting you know you have to take it easy, I couldn't be bothered both snapped and well it was the Original so replaced it, Also being in the Parts trade it makes more sense cost wise.

I was actually looking at some new ones today too.
I'm really wary though of sellers on ebay selling things that look exactly the same but don't perform, I always prefer buying OEM from a reliable source so that I don't have to go back and do the job again.

Going to have fun with the car over the next few weeks and it won't even be driven a mile. :)
 
Ditto on replacements hence it being a OEM Wabco unit :)
 
always WABCO, the cheap ebay pumps are rubbish.

top job there Pat
 
Didn't get time today to get the pump back in, work got in the way.

I did get time to clean up inside the wheel arch though, looking rather nice.

Also checked the valve block, looked a bit dirty so removed this cleaned it up and sealed it with lacquer.

Before.
20171214_130856.jpg

After
20171214_163507.jpg
 
Been a bit busy......

Changed the number plate over to a "private" plate (from one of our 1974 Hillman Imp's).

Also installed a CTEK MXS 5.0 to keep the battery good.

Hopefully get some time on Tuesday to do a bit more.
 
Well managed some time to do a bit more, took more bits off. :oops:

Noticed the bracket that held the secondary air blower on was a bit corroded (just white surface stuff), removed this, media blasted it and lacquered it to seal it.

There was a bit of a weep from the transmission plug so I've drained the pan, removed the pan, filter and plug, have new ones on order. No harm in doing a change to the fluid as it's about due.
The sump plug was seized so had to end up drilling a hole at one side and using a punch to get off so new plug and washer required.
There is also a little bit of corrosion at the front end (outside) of the sump pan so going to address that next before this goes back on.

Took 4L out of the pan, going to fill 4L again then figure out which hose to remove from the oil cooler (?) run the car and flush the torque convertor.

I'll pop some pictures up of progress tomorrow, I do like shiny things. :D
 
Bottom of the oil pan was a bit messy to say the least.
You can see where the fluid has been seeping out the connector, very common on these 722.6 boxes and so easy to go unnoticed with the bottom covers on.

20171213_162436.jpg
 
The pan itself was actually quite badly corroded at the rear end, £70 for a new pan or refurbish this one, decided on the refurbish route.

Media blasted clean (outside only, inside is fine) then used some metal prep on it to prepare it for painting.
You can see the spots where the little bits of rust have been.20171221_150116.jpg
 
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Well done Sir, Brutus's sumpan was siezed when i got it, 1st change i did i just dropped the whole pan then reffited, Messy haha so next time i replaced the pan with a new one from Mb along with new bolts etc. Your old pan came up well you did well to remove the plug! Looking a dam fine job:)

Ps you can get deeper Sump pans from weistec, apparently helps keep atf fluid cool i nearly did but like i said went Oe.
 
und3.jpg
 
Well done Sir, Brutus's sumpan was siezed when i got it, 1st change i did i just dropped the whole pan then reffited, Messy haha so next time i replaced the pan with a new one from Mb along with new bolts etc. Your old pan came up well you did well to remove the plug! Looking a dam fine job:)

It was a complete pain to get the plug out.
A carefully drilled hole to the side so as to get a punch in, then punch turned on its side and about a half hour hitting this with a mallet!

I was dreading the thought of dropping the entire pan to drain it due to the mess this would have made.

Good news is I got 4L out of the pan to start with, since it has been sitting I've had another 1.25L drain out into a container.
Can't be much more than about 8L total in the system I would have thought so another 3L would do it.
 
well done Pat, its looking good!, surprised the sump bolt seized as the gearbox oil was changed a few years back by Olly at PCS, the plug definitely wasnt leaking then, just shows how these things need to be checked regularly!

the secondary air pump can be coded out as its only really needed in the US, but i had it replaced when it went. brings on a check engine light when it fails.

keep up the good work! :)
 

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