How had/soft is MB paint

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David404

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Sep 7, 2015
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761
Location
West Midlands
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GLE350d (W166)
Hi All

At some point I'm going to try some correction to my Obsidian Black 2009 W211 to get rid of all the swirl marks. Polishes/compounds and pads seem to come in various grades in part to account for differences in how hard/soft the paint is.

As title what's the opinion on MB paint hardness given its Obsidian black and a 2009 example?
 
Hi All

At some point I'm going to try some correction to my Obsidian Black 2009 W211 to get rid of all the swirl marks. Polishes/compounds and pads seem to come in various grades in part to account for differences in how hard/soft the paint is.

As title what's the opinion on MB paint hardness given its Obsidian black and a 2009 example?

There's no real way of telling unless you go to a bodyshop to measure the thickness of paint, but even then you never know if it's been polished before in its life making the clear coat thinner and thinner, generally your be ok using 3m fast cut plus with a green hard mop head, then going over it after with a yellow waffle head using the 3m extra fine plus and finally finishing the paint off with a blue waffle head using 3m ultrafina se that should get you a mirror like finish, best tip always make sure the cars clean first and use different micro fibre cloths for the different processes, always make sure it's new cloths black shows scratches very easy.
 
Dizz asked this same question in his thread "Which Cutting/polish?". The rely I gave still holds valid, here's the permalink:

Best polish for Obsidian Black

And regarding aggressiveness:

German auto-reducing polish

Yeah putting it like that it sounds thin but you can do a lot with clear coat, you can flat it down with 2000 wet and dry and polish it back up with the 3m product I've suggested if there's enough clear coat there, where I work the bodyshop is Mercedes approved and we polish a lot of cars with original paint it's a lot more hard wearing than your post suggests, just stick with the 3m products I said and your be fine I've never broke through original clear coat in the 13 years I been doing it, you have to really be giving it some stick and heating the panel up a considerable amount before breaking through, if your worried have a bodyshop give your car a full body polish it would probably be around the £150-300 depending on who you use and how bad your car is.
 
If its the Nano paint, then it's harder than a hard thing that's very, very hard.
 
If you use Glasurit then the clears for you in order of hardness are the 109, 447, then 2002. 2002 being a Lexus specific clear, harder than MB's other recommended clears and requires special baking equipment for quick production times unless you want to wait for a long while for it to go off under normal baking. Most painters will be reluctant to use it because they think the after painting rectification work is more difficult with it. According to Glasurit themselves this is not the case. All three use reflow tech, 2002 having the best reflow properties. The Chemists who know a lot about this are based in the UK for BASF. I have their details if you are as serious as I am and want to discuss things with them.
2002 with gtechnic and exo over the top of that will give the best protection you can easily get against swirls. Only other product I am thinking of using is a 3M clear film on the front to help protect against stone chips. Apparently this stuff is the dux de lux but I have no experience with it myself - yet.

http://techinfo.glasurit.com/en_UK/PKW_VOC/Chapter_G/GK/925-2002_print.pdf
 
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