Oil Specs: MB229.1 & MB229.3

[Robbo]

Mobil 1 0W40 still meets MB229.3, its just that it meets the higher spec MB229.5 as well. Use the 0W40, its fine.

 

[oilman]

Interesting discussion here.

This is my first post and I must declare an interest before I start as I'm in the Oil Business. I don't work for a manufacturer, I'm a retailer/wholesaler of 5 different brands of oil (Castrol, Mobil, Silkolene, Fuchs and Total) for my sins.

One of my Companies specialities is advising and supplying automotive oils to members of car clubs in the UK. This is a specialist business which requires a very broad knowledge of oils, both technical and general.

In my dealings with one of my suppliers, Fuchs (Germany), I have access to a great deal of information concerning the development of oils for MB in conjunction with Fuchs and indeed details of the Fuchs oils that are "factory fill" for MB.

Firstly, if you're still reading, you must appreciate the difference between "factory fill" (1st Fill) and service fill as they are completely different. So, if this concept is new to you, bear with me as you'll learn something.

Fuchs Germany factory fill all Mercedes Benz cars but they do not seek the ongoing service fill business in the UK as this market is generally fought over by Castrol and Mobil (a long tradition!). So, if you're following, Fuchs put the oil in at the factory and your car arrives here with their oil in it. Your local Dealer at 1st service then puts Castrol or Mobil in the car because he doesn't have their products.

So, having said all that, what is the situation concerning specs, well there is some good info here but I can expand upon it for those that are interested.

There are now 3 basic MB oil specs if you include the new MB 229.5 which is a 2004 specification and the fundemantal details (without boring you) are as follows:

229.1 Multigrade

For car engines (MR100, MR600) commercial engines from the car sector (MR100, MR600) and industrial engines from the car sector (MR100, MR600).
These motor oils must meet at least ACEA A2 or A3 / BE or B3.

Oil drain Intervals.

For vehicles without ASSYST, oil change should be made usually after 15,000 km or 1 year. For vehicles with ASSYST, oil change interval is variable. Typical: 22,000 km or 1,3 years.

Approved Grades

5w-30, 5w-40, PD 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40.

229.3 Multigrade

Similar to 229.1 however with a higher performance level. Requires minimum ACEA A3 and B3/B4.

Oil drain Intervals.

For vehicles with ASSYST. In comparison to the oils according to 229.1 but oil change intervals are extended.

Approved Grades

0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-30 and 5w-40, 5w-50

229.5 Multigrade

Similar to 229.3 however with a higher performance level. The use of these new motor oils according to 229.5 leads to advantages regarding fuel consumption.

Oil drain Intervals

For vehicles with ASSYST. In comparison to the oils according to 229.3, oil change intervals are more extended.

Approved grades

0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-30

I'm sure this will create more questions than it answers but please feel free to ask as I'd be happy to help.

Cheers
Simon

 

[Scott_F]

So can anybody confirm whether Mobil S 10w/40 (MB229.1) will be suitable for a 1994 E220 W124 series ? It will do less than 5000 miles a year and the oil will be changed every 12 months.

 

[grober]

It will be fine. Just put some in my car since it was readily available. Given the choice I would use Fuchs Titan XTR 10w40 or MILLERS XSS 10w40 [ both available from OPIE OILS by mail order engine oil, motor oil, gear oil, car oil, motorbike oil, transmission fluid from oilman at Opie Oils ] but Mobil S 10w40 will be fine.

 

[DSB SL AMG]

halfords deal at mo Mobil 10W40 super S £20 5L....

 

[Scott_F]

Thanks for this information. Asda also have an offer that finishes today - £4 for a litre which is ideal for use with the 5 litres from Halfords as I believe that the engine capacity is 5.8 litres

 

[Will]

Fuchs Titan XTR 10W-40 is fine, but it's cheaper from other suppliers such as GSF car parts than Opie Oils - and if you have a local branch you won't have to pay postage

Will

 

[grober]

I think you will get away with 5litres since not all the oil comes out when its drained. I also find running with oil 1/2 way between the min and max on the dipstick rather than right up to the max level is fine unless your engine is losing/burning oil.

 

[Will]

Yep - I changed the oil on my 300TE on Saturday with 5 litre of Fuchs XTR - even after letting it drain for a good while (1/2 hour) and jacked it up slightly on one side to aid draining it only took 5 litres (it's 80% odd up the dipstick again AFAIK). You won't get every drop out on a change.

Will

 

[Uncle Fester]

Wow, that thread was six years old.... lol

Anyhoo, my tuppence worth.

I knew a guy who was a technical troubleshooter type, in the oil industry, and his opinion was that, as far as the internal combustion engine was concerned, and with the reasonably frequent oil changes, that "oil is oil is oil"

I have used Comma oil for years in my deisels and racked up in excess of 300k miles in engines using it, so I will probably try it in the merc.

Oh, just to clarify, that 300k miles was on one engine.... (a peugot xud)

Comma :: Productsguide

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

I knew a guy who was a technical troubleshooter type, in the oil industry, and his opinion was that, as far as the internal combustion engine was concerned, and with the reasonably frequent oil changes, that "oil is oil is oil"

I buy in to a similar philosophy - providing that you change it often enough. My Dad bought a trolley full of oil from Tesco when selling it off for silly money (49p per litre) for his Rover 220 SDi. He changes it every few thousand miles, and the car is going strong.

Sadly we don't have the time/inclination to change the oil say every 3,000 miles, and many of us don't have cars which would tolerate cheap grades of oil - or should I say that even if the car would, then the manufacturer wouldn't in the event of a warranty claim!!

I don't mind paying £5 per litre of Mobil 1 given it lasts me between 10,000 and 15,000 miles depending upon which car it's going into.

 

[Uncle Fester]

I buy in to a similar philosophy - providing that you change it often enough. My Dad bought a trolley full of oil from Tesco when selling it off for silly money (49p per litre) for his Rover 220 SDi. He changes it every few thousand miles, and the car is going strong.

Sadly we don't have the time/inclination to change the oil say every 3,000 miles, and many of us don't have cars which would tolerate cheap grades of oil - or should I say that even if the car would, then the manufacturer wouldn't in the event of a warranty claim!!

I don't mind paying £5 per litre of Mobil 1 given it lasts me between 10,000 and 15,000 miles depending upon which car it's going into.

I agree, times change, and so do engines and oil technolegy, and I would also pay those sums if it keeps my engine in good nick, but if an oil exceeds manufactures specs, then surely it's fine to use, even if it's cheap??

 

[grober]

Wow, that thread was six years old.... lol

Anyhoo, my tuppence worth.

I knew a guy who was a technical troubleshooter type, in the oil industry, and his opinion was that, as far as the internal combustion engine was concerned, and with the reasonably frequent oil changes, that "oil is oil is oil"

I have used Comma oil for years in my deisels and racked up in excess of 300k miles in engines using it, so I will probably try it in the merc.

Oh, just to clarify, that 300k miles was on one engine.... (a peugot xud)

Comma :: Productsguide

Tis rumoured that Halfords "own brand" oils are made by Comma.

 

[Scott_F]

And speaking of oil changes.......my 1994 E220 (W124) has the oil filter on the top of the engine and this is not something that I am familiar with. When the black filter housing is unscrewed (do you need a special tool for this ?) does oil run out all over the place ?

 

[grober]

Much easier if you have a dedicated tool for filter removal-- Halfords stock them. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_199193_langId_-1_categoryId_165469 Start draining or extracting the oil [ engine warmed up first] and while its draining loosen [but do not remove] the black plastic cap to allow the oil in the filter housing to drain into the sump. After the draining/extracting is completed remove the cap+ attached filter- it clips into the cap.There will be some residual oil-I find the box the new filter comes in is a good receptacle for the old filter. Renew the black plastic cap large O ring [ coat it with a thin film of clean engine oil] --- clip the new filter in place-- felt washer and orifice downwards---- insert the complete assembled cap plus cartridge - the filter fits over the central tube in the housing- tighten to hand tight plus a tweak [remember its plastic threads you are dealing with] Best to use a torque wrench if you have it 25Nm

 

[Scott_F]

Fantastic and detailed advice - thanks ! Would an August 1994 E220 Cabriolet have a pollen / cabin filter as I haven't spotted one in the scuttle area ?

 

[Scott_F]

.......and as I plan to change the brake fluid (the car had ABS brakes) should I use a DOT 5.1 fluid ? Other than a regular bleeding kit are any special tools needed for this job ?