R230 350SL PSE guidance needed

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Silver CL55

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
561
Location
Hamilton, Scotland.
Car
(W216) 2008 CL 500, Tanzanite blue with tan leather. (W230) 2005 SL350, Black with sand leather
I've been trawling through all the previous posts but can't find a way forward with my issue, I've replaced the blown 20a fuse behind the drivers seat but still no central locking, please read timeline below;

Central locking failed
Checked 20a fuse behind drivers seat (fuse blown)
Replaced fuse
Still no central locking (checked fuse, not blown)

Where do I go from here guys?

Colin.
 
What year is the car?
What assignment does the 20amp fuse have?
What type of remote fob do you have and does the remote fob work?

Dec
 
2003
PSE pump
3 button remote
Works, alarm turns on but central locking does not work.

What year is the car?
What assignment does the 20amp fuse have?
What type of remote fob do you have and does the remote fob work?

Dec
 
Check the boot for water/damp, the PSE pump may have gotten wet, it will need to be checked by removing it from car and opening it up.

Dec
 
I can't get into the boot because the PSE pump has stopped working!

Check the boot for water/damp, the PSE pump may have gotten wet, it will need to be checked by removing it from car and opening it up.

Dec
 
Will the metal key blade work in the boot lock?

Dec
 
Does it turn to the left or right.
-put key into lock
-turn key to left
-push key inward when it is turned to the left.

Dec
 
The key doesn't open the boot, so as above, insert key & turn clockwise (when looking down from above) - hold key in that position & pull the boot handle with the other hand.

It won't stay unlocked, so you have to do this every time while the PSE isn't working
 
I'm sorry…"boot handle?", do you mean the boot release button situated on the drivers door?

The key doesn't open the boot, so as above, insert key & turn clockwise (when looking down from above) - hold key in that position & pull the boot handle with the other hand.

It won't stay unlocked, so you have to do this every time while the PSE isn't working
 
I'm sorry…"boot handle?", do you mean the boot release button situated on the drivers door?

no- the handle above the numberplate in between the number plate lights - pull it towards you
 
Ok, cheers, got it open.
Its dark now but it all looks a little damp, I'll go back to it tomorrow.

I guess I remove the pump and attempt to dry it out?
Previous owner said it had been replaced, it is not wrapped in foam and sits on a couple of wooden blocks.

C.
 
Ok, cheers, got it open.
Its dark now but it all looks a little damp, I'll go back to it tomorrow.

I guess I remove the pump and attempt to dry it out?
Previous owner said it had been replaced, it is not wrapped in foam and sits on a couple of wooden blocks.

C.

well I suppose that's better than being wrapped in a sponge! The pipes unclip in two blocks, so no need to do each one at a time. You can split the PSE case which would let it dry out faster.
 
If it’s wet or damp inside it will need to be opened to allow air to dry it out properly (Warm air from hair drier) anything enclosed in a box won’t dry out properly.

A different pump below, just to give you an idea on how yours might come apart.

Dec

389691d1312359661-central-locking-vacuum-problems-vacuumpump.jpg


368492d1302348495-taking-apart-vacuum-pump-vacuumpump.jpg
 
Thanks for all the guidance chaps, if I can remove it would it be ok to drive the car whilst removed?

C.
 
The act of unlocking the car with the remote control also disarms the alarm so, even though the door locking wont work from the remote, the alarm may still, hopefully, disarm.
Locking the car with the remote should arm the alarm, it may be best, for the time being not to use the remote to arm the alarm.

You will have to lock the car doors manually, with the key blade, until you solve the fault.
The boot, as far as I know, locks itself when it is slammed shut, it only needs the key blade to be unlocked.

Glove box may need to be unlocked with the key blade?
Otherwise you can drive but no lock/unlocking.

Dec
 
Ok, removed and replaced the electrical connections a few times, no difference, checked the fuse, no change so…...pump removed and split open, electrical connections checked, they seem ok, pump seems dry inside, no moisture that I can see.

I'll put it on a radiator to dry any moisture that I can't see.
Any way I can check it whist it is out?
What else can I do?
Maybe the pump has just failed even though its not wet?

C.
 
With the unit disconnected from the car, see if you can get the pump motor to run, put 12v live and neutral to the 2 terminals on the pump motor, use a battery charger as the power source.

Don’t use one of those modern smart battery chargers as it might not work, use a bog standard old style charger.

Dec
 
Ok.
there are 2 separate banks of connectors, smaller one has 6 X needles, the other has 10 x spades. Do you know which are live and neutral?

C.

With the unit disconnected from the car, see if you can get the pump motor to run, put 12v live and neutral to the 2 terminals on the pump motor, use a battery charger as the power source.

Don’t use one of those modern smart battery chargers as it might not work, use a bog standard old style charger.

Dec
 
368492d1302348495-taking-apart-vacuum-pump-vacuumpump.jpg
[/QUOTE]

No, what I mean is to put power directly to the 2 terminals on the motor, for example, the motor in the picture above has a Brown and a Black wire, put Positive+ to the Black Wire and Negative- to the brown, if that doesn’t make the motor run then swap the wires around so as to put Negative- to the Black wire and Positive to the Brown wire.

Only touch the terminals briefly.
Otherwise bring the unit to a garage and ask them to check if the pump motor will work if it gets a voltage.

Dec
 

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