Renntech V2 or V3 lowering module? And why?

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Silver CL55

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Joined
Jul 11, 2009
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Location
Hamilton, Scotland.
Car
(W216) 2008 CL 500, Tanzanite blue with tan leather. (W230) 2005 SL350, Black with sand leather
I'm looking at a Renntech lowering module, could members who have fitted either please comment on which is preferred.

The module is actually made by programma.

C.
 
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V2 has the little remote making it more flexible, V3 you need a tablet style remote to control and V3 does consume less power than the V2.

programa one in the link is the V2, they made it for renntech
 
V2 has the little remote making it more flexible, V3 you need a tablet style remote to control and V3 does consume less power than the V2.

programa one in the link is the V2, they made it for renntech

Thanks Alps
£400 not to be sniffed at :D
 
I like the V2 with remote as I can chose when to wear dark shades, lots of gold chain, hat on backwards, underpants showing, and slam it.

Or be respectful of the Mercedes design engineers and turn it off and I turn back into "an old fart in a merc" pipe and slippers:D
 
Ok sensible answer really as Alps has said regarding the differences, the v2 module I think is easier to use with the remote fitted you can set the ride height you want at the touch of a button and then return to factory height when you want.

To be honest I only use it when stationary as it looks like a scolded cat when lowered, on the move well its a 55:devil:
 
Thanks for that.

Anything you don't like about the V2?

Any idea if the higher power draw of the V2 would mean my battery would be flat after leaving the car sitting at an airport for 3 weeks at a time?
(which I do regularly)

For example could I just unplug the remote or switch it off or something?

V2 has the little remote making it more flexible, V3 you need a tablet style remote to control and V3 does consume less power than the V2.

programa one in the link is the V2, they made it for renntech
 
Once its fitted its integral to the system, you cannot just unplugg it, turned off it allows the cars fixed system to control the height so it must be very small current draw if any, will find my paperwork and update the thread later if i find anything.

And no its a great fun bit of kit, I do use fake gold chain to keep the cost down:D
 
The V2 is great, one of my favourite mods on my car:thumb:

To be honest I don't have my car lowered much (I vary it but typically say -15mm front and -10mm rear) but whenever I see a car at stock height, they always look a bit wrong:crazy:

As I understand it the main advantage of the V3 is that it can be programmed to return to standard ride height at certain speeds. So for example you could have the have significantly lowered when stationary and up to say 25mph, but above that it raises to stock or a predetermined ride height.

That said you can actually adjust the V2 on the move, not that I recommend faffing about with it while driving!!!

I couldn't comment on power draw whilst parked, but I would think it takes minimal consumption, but could be wrong:dk:
 
I actually bought one of the programma V2 ones and now am in two minds whether or not to fit it, as I have just fitted 20" wheels and am unsure if it will have any adverse effect with bigger wheels. So MAY have a brand new one for sale.
 
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I actually bought one of the programma V2 ones and now am in two minds whether or not to fit it, as I have just fitted 20" wheels and am unsure if it will have any adverse effect with bigger wheels. So MAY have a brand new one for sale.

If you're fitting 20's you should definitely fit the lowering module, just won't look quite right at stock height!! I can't see why it would have an adverse effect as long as the wheels are correct fitment. Lowering will of course add camber but as long as it's not slammed you should be ok:thumb:
 
I have 20's on the CL, there is a particularly large gap between tyre and arch on the front.

If you're fitting 20's you should definitely fit the lowering module, just won't look quite right at stock height!! I can't see why it would have an adverse effect as long as the wheels are correct fitment. Lowering will of course add camber but as long as it's not slammed you should be ok:thumb:
 
If you're fitting 20's you should definitely fit the lowering module, just won't look quite right at stock height!! I can't see why it would have an adverse effect as long as the wheels are correct fitment. Lowering will of course add camber but as long as it's not slammed you should be ok:thumb:

Thanks Simon. It was just that when I put it into sports II setting, it seems to sit just right. Decisions decisions :D
 
Ok lads, let me know what I can and cannot do with the V2.

I think I can adjust all 4 corners heights individually then assign a setting to that?

I think I can do this for a least 3 seperate settings, for example:

1. really low (parked)

2. driving (similar to AMG settings)

3. stock (looks as if a module had not been fitted)

Are there only 3 settings?

Can I set the V2 to auitomatically rise to stock at certain speeds or do I need to do that adjustment myself?

C.
 
1. yes up to 2" lower max
2. you can turn the unit off for standard height or adjust it, mine sits at 0.6" lower for everyday driving but has also been lowered on star.
3. as above.

no, you can adjust in increments of 0.2" (or the metric equiv), on the w211 front two corners individually and the back as one, mayben different on ABC, check out the instruction manual on the programa link.

on w211 you cannot get it to raise automatically, check the instructions on the link.

this is at its lowest (sry my fav pic lol)
FastCarB4DXX_zps2e1b5edb.jpg
 
I believe you're overthinking it. Consider this.

You need to do the same routine every time you park the car and set off for a drive. Lower it, raise it. Not only it's another thing on the list to do, you're also making your suspension work unnecessarily harder. I bet after a few times when you accidentally forget to switch to "driving" and bottom it out, you will skip stage 1.

I would keep it simple. My lowering module is "set and forget". It keeps the same height when parked and driven but gives up the controls when the car is going over certain speed (don't know what it is, I didn't change that). It was preset by the factory that made it in Germany with TUV and all so no point in reinventing the wheel. Just plug in and enjoy.

The only reason I could see the need for adjustments is when you go on a track day (I've seen some people adjust them) or if you want a slammed look at some GTG or car show. Then again, pretty much all good lowering modules offer further adjustments, should the owner wish to (mine does it with a screwdriver). Your suspension is pretty accurate and faster to react than Airmatic. In theory you shouldn't even need to adjust corners separately. Personally, I believe 99% of the time you won't even remember it is there. :thumb:
 
Alps I hate you!!!! stunning picture, i need bigger wheels.

And as Alps has said depending on which car its fitted to the remote and unit can operate differently, but just as described for the 211, you need to read up for which car you intend to fit.
 
You may be right!, thanks for the expanation.

I believe you're overthinking it. :thumb:
 

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