W204 Front Hydro Bushing

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markjay

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On several websites (e.g. Problems and recalls: Mercedes-Benz W204 C-Class Saloon (2007-11) | UK Car Reviews and Buyers Guide, Images, Videos, Recalls, Faults and Problems) it says that:

'Mercedes-Benz W204 C-Class: other problems and faults

Knocking noises from the engine bay during low speed manoeuvres such as parking may be due to problems with the hydro bushings; improved bushings were subsequently released.'

Can anyone shed more light on this? Perhaps from WIS? My 2013 W204 seems to be suffering from this, just wondering if this is supposed to affect late cars as well, and if so how do you go about obtaining the 'improved bushings'?

Thank you in advance.
 
How can you tell which is the 'improved' part...?
 

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If the part is 'improved' it would show as superseded in EPC
 
I think my facelift Nov 2011 w204 Estate does this, particularly under load (up an incline) reversing. It's an approved used c180 1.8 cgi I bought 2.5 years ago. It went back to MB under warranty, for these new bushes, but it still does it! Assuming it's not something else (more serious?). I've got a video of it somewhere

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
 
When I turn the steering wheel lock to lock while stationary, or at low speed driving manoeuvres, there's a dull 'clung' from the front end.

I asked both WIM and WG to check the front suspension, and they could not find anything wrong.
 
I think my facelift Nov 2011 w204 Estate does this, particularly under load (up an incline) reversing. It's an approved used c180 1.8 cgi I bought 2.5 years ago. It went back to MB under warranty, for these new bushes, but it still does it! Assuming it's not something else (more serious?). I've got a video of it somewhere

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Interesting... I would be happy to replace the bushes of course of this cures the problem, or I could equally live with it if it is not possible to fix (it's not a huge issue, just me being pedantic). But what I don't wont to do is change the bushes to discover it makes no difference... :(
 
DTB2.png~original


P-B-33.15/20B - Does the document exist? Here's to hoping it does. - Mercedes-Benz Forum

The odd thing is that it dated back to 2008/2009, so I would not expect to see this issue on a 2013 car...?
 
Interesting... I would be happy to replace the bushes of course of this cures the problem, or I could equally live with it if it is not possible to fix (it's not a huge issue, just me being pedantic). But what I don't wont to do is change the bushes to discover it makes no difference... :(

I think this link should take you to a youtube video of the noise... https://youtu.be/SRrnY8vkwJs

be interesting to know if this is the sort of noise you're getting (if you can make it out from this video?)
 
Does anyone have a copy of the WIS document for replacing of control arm bushes...?
 
That's interesting MJ.

My 57 plate W204 does this with exactly the symptoms you described.

When making slow manoeuvres at severe steering angles (like a turn-in-the-road), a small clunk/knock from the front end. Never heard during any other driving situation. It's done it for the 3 years of my ownership and hasn't ever gotten any worse as far as I can tell.

It's also never had any mention of any suspension/steering components at MOT time, even in advisories and it passed with flying colours on Friday at a Merc main dealer.

I'll be interested in any conclusions.
 
I think this link should take you to a youtube video of the noise... https://youtu.be/SRrnY8vkwJs

be interesting to know if this is the sort of noise you're getting (if you can make it out from this video?)

I've never heard mine from outside the car, but from inside, mine sounds a little briefer than that, but similar I guess. It happens when he goes from the cobbles, down a little bump, which is when it happens most with me. If reversing off of a low curb, like my drive way with steering applied.
 
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w204/303710-torque-arm-bearings-popping-again.html#post3576854
I would imagine that replacing the entire arm complete with bush and ball joint would be the sensible option if such a repair was needed. pressing bushes into arms without the right gear is going to predispose the bush to damage. Quite often there's a recommendation that new suspension bushes should be finally torqued up with the car resting on its suspension such that the bush is not subjected to any stress in a "normal resting position" .
 
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w204/303710-torque-arm-bearings-popping-again.html#post3576854
I would imagine that replacing the entire arm complete with bush and ball joint would be the sensible option if such a repair was needed. pressing bushes into arms without the right gear is going to predispose the bush to damage. Quite often there's a recommendation that new suspension bushes should be finally torqued up with the car resting on its suspension such that the bush is not subjected to any stress in a "normal resting position" .

I did look into it...:

1. The MB Technical Bulletin says replace bushes only (not entire arm), and for the two protection dust caps.

2. The bushing is prone to premature failure at around 30k miles. The car currently covered 33k miles. The ball joint at the other end should be fine. The bit in between is just metal and in my case it is not damaged or corroded.

3. The MB Technical Bulletin also says that wheel alignment should be rechecked after replacing the bushing. For this reason I have arranged for the work to be carried out by Tony Bones @ WIM. They are suspension specialists, have the press, and know the correct torquing procedure. I've known WIM for over 10 years (from when they used to be in Watford..) and I trust Tony and his chaps to do a proper job. Only shame is that they had the car for full geometry alignment only last month... oh well.

4. I am not averse to using non-MB quality parts (e.g. Lemforder), but in this case I wanted to make sure that the modified part is fitted and the only way to do that is by purchasing the MB part (though you could argue that a bushing from different manufacturer - say Febi - might not have had this design fault or manufacturing defect in the first place..). The bushing and 2 caps cost £27 per side for the modified MB part. The full arm including bushing and ball joint cost around £60-£100 per side from motor factors, or £150-£200 from MB (not clear if the caps are included with the full arm). So moneywise the difference in the cost of parts is between £60 for the two bushing and caps and £300-£400 for two arms. I imagine that the Labour cost for the bushing replacement would be slightly higher due to the use of press etc but I don't expect this to be significant. So yes under normal circumstances I would go for complete Lemforder arm as you suggested, but in this case given the combination of the car's low mileage (as said this particular bushing failure is not normal test and wear) and the need to ensure that the modified part was installed, on balance I decided to have just the bushing replaced.
 
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As usual how you approach these things depends on who is doing the job. The "garage round the corner"---- or an MB specialist/main dealer. My advice really referred to the "garage round the corner" where lack of experience or the correct tools might mean a short lived repair. If someone has the right drift /press and experience then no problem.
 

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