Water Sloshing Around in Sills

[350iRF]

My 350 convertible has water sloshing around in the sills noticeable when I brake at slowish speed. Has anyone else had this problem?

I located a plastic screw in plug at the rear jacking point, unscrewed that and loads of water came pouring out so at least the sills are empty now.

BUT: where is the water getting into the sills from?

Please anyone, can you help as I don't want my car's sills rotting out from the inside.

Thanks
Roy

 

[Tim203]

Just seen on Benz world similar post after googling. Apparently drain channels from the rear windows are responsible.

 

[l5foye]

I have had a similiar problem with a ML (W164) . Local dealer had a ML in with a similiar complaint, they spent a week stripping it completely and still did not find the cause of the problem. I settled for elongating the holes in the drain plugs and have not had the problem since.

 

[dddooommm]

[FIX]
MBCLUB

I've had this on a couple of my Mercs.

The several scenario fixes:

1-Make sure the tail lights are screwed tight & have the foam gasket in tact and in good condition.

2- Make sure that the boot's plastic gutter drip trays have the original Mercedes plastic pop reverts in tightly and they are not damaged.

3- The DREADED 3rd brake light- The double sided foam sticky gasket lasts around 10 years and merc don't make this part- only the whole 3rd break light. BUT there is a way around it.
Take the 3rd light out of the socket. Clean up all the foam sticky residue, tape up the front of the light with masking tape, masking tape around the boot lid hole, apply coloured or clear bathroom silicone. Place break light in and tighten from behind.

4- Make sure all seals have no cuts or tears

5- On pre-face-lift CLK'S & SL's, they have a large boot lid number plate tray, take this off the boot lid. Make sure the plastic pop reverts are in good condition. When reapplying the boot lid tray onto the boot lid, put drops of clear silicone on the holes where the plastic pop reverts go. Put a line if silicone around the whole area where the number plate tray goes.

6- Make sure the boot lid closes snug & tight against the seal. This will mean closing the boot with you inside and look for any beams of daylight. If so you need to twist the small circle rubber bumpers on the boot lid which line the boot up.
If this does not work, you will need to undo the bolts on the boot brackets and gently shift it left, right, back or forward to get a better closure seal.

7- If this still doesnt work, strip the inside carpets out, get in the closed boot with a decent torch. Get a friend to put a hose pipe in one area at a time, working right to left etc.



Hope this helps people-
Let me know if this solves your problem.

 

[MaxW]

Same problem - did anyone find a solution to this? I managed to get some of the water out from under the sills but there’s still water inside....

 

[219]

[FIX]
MBCLUB

I've had this on a couple of my Mercs.

The several scenario fixes:

1-Make sure the tail lights are screwed tight & have the foam gasket in tact and in good condition.

2- Make sure that the boot's plastic gutter drip trays have the original Mercedes plastic pop reverts in tightly and they are not damaged.

3- The DREADED 3rd brake light- The double sided foam sticky gasket lasts around 10 years and merc don't make this part- only the whole 3rd break light. BUT there is a way around it.
Take the 3rd light out of the socket. Clean up all the foam sticky residue, tape up the front of the light with masking tape, masking tape around the boot lid hole, apply coloured or clear bathroom silicone. Place break light in and tighten from behind.

4- Make sure all seals have no cuts or tears

5- On pre-face-lift CLK'S & SL's, they have a large boot lid number plate tray, take this off the boot lid. Make sure the plastic pop reverts are in good condition. When reapplying the boot lid tray onto the boot lid, put drops of clear silicone on the holes where the plastic pop reverts go. Put a line if silicone around the whole area where the number plate tray goes.

6- Make sure the boot lid closes snug & tight against the seal. This will mean closing the boot with you inside and look for any beams of daylight. If so you need to twist the small circle rubber bumpers on the boot lid which line the boot up.
If this does not work, you will need to undo the bolts on the boot brackets and gently shift it left, right, back or forward to get a better closure seal.

7- If this still doesnt work, strip the inside carpets out, get in the closed boot with a decent torch. Get a friend to put a hose pipe in one area at a time, working right to left etc.



Hope this helps people-
Let me know if this solves your problem.

Reverts ????

they are RIVETS !!!

and before anyone says , I know it is an old post .

 

[219]

Same problem - did anyone find a solution to this? I managed to get some of the water out from under the sills but there’s still water inside....

Never encountered that problem , but I'd try draining by gravity as you've done , if you can open both ends , blow through with compressed air , or if you can fashion a reducing hose , blow through with hot air from a heat gun to thoroughly dry out , then waxoyl , followed by filing the void with expanding foam to stop water getting in ....

 

[Benzmanc]

I had that on my old E class cab too, i just jacked it up on a rear corner and the water drained. Never did get to the bottom of it

 

[MaxW]

Can anyone advise where the drainage channels are for rear window on a e220 cabrio? I've checked the front channels & they're OK & I'm assuming water is getting into the sills due to blocked rear drainage channels. Cheers.

 

[Pmrch]

Had same issue with my 220 eclass cab.
Where the jacking points are on sills you can unblock the drains by putting a wide blade screwdriver between the sill jacking rubber and the inner body of the car by slightly moving the rubber jacking point. I had a lot of water drain out from both rear jacking points on each side of the car.