What spray gun...

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Spinal

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 14, 2004
Messages
4,806
Location
between Uxbridge and the Alps
Car
x254, G350, Duster, S320, Mach1, 900ss and a few more
I've decided to redo my panels on my bike myself - and they are coming out alot better than I expected! AND I'm using spray cans!

So, I've decided to "splash out" and buy a spray gun for the compressor, do you have any recomendations?

I was thinking gravity fed would waste less paint, right?

Michele
 
So, I've decided to redo my panels on my bike myself - and they are coming out alot better than I expected! AND I'm using spray cans!

So, I've decided to "splash out" and buy a spray gun for the compressor, do you have any recomendations?

I was thinking gravity fed would waste less paint, right?

Michele

Gravity are better with slightly less atomisation and less paint.

Are you using cellulose based or 2 pack.

if 2 pack its getting a bit cold now to do this outside so id you warm up the paint to 20c you need not thin the paint so much as the flow rate is better, I use a flow cup but not worth buying for 1 job.

Also warm up the parts, as this will hinder sliding and runs, best finish is got buy doing one coat and allowing it flash off, then apply the second coat within some minutes depending on the type of paint, the first coat has flashed and will hold the second coat to prevent runs and encourage flow. You do need to be quite good to do this as the difference from flowing (no orange peel) to running is small.

If you are using a base coat system you never flat the base coat.

talking of guns, when doing a car 30-40lbs is fine with a 12" fan.

when doing small bike parts,a 8" fan is OK, do all of the edges and awkward bits first and leave it to flash off for at least 15 mins then apply the top coats

any thing you want to know just ask
 
I use a Devilbis JGA I have had it for years and it works really well, its a suction type gun, the other good thing is you can still get spares for it
 
I use a Devilbis JGA I have had it for years and it works really well, its a suction type gun, the other good thing is you can still get spares for it


I still use one and I will never part with it, unchanged sinse the 60's I still have all of the air caps in different sizes, sadly the do not work very well with water based paints.
 
Uhm.... I'm not sure what paint I'm using! I went to Halfords and bought a can of "Ducati Rosso"...

Maybe I should see if the dealership carries the paint; they might have something "better"...

Michele
 
Spraying is not something that many can do, are you sure that you are up to this.l the cost of the correct paints can easily go over £100

Why not flat all of the panels off and have them done, it would not cost that much
 
I've decided to redo my panels on my bike myself - and they are coming out alot better than I expected! AND I'm using spray cans!

So, I've decided to "splash out" and buy a spray gun for the compressor, do you have any recomendations?

I was thinking gravity fed would waste less paint, right?

Michele

Devilbiss for me too. Iv'e tried others but always went back to this. Gravity or suction.
Started using in '76 and although I haven't used one in 10 years or so I reckon I could still strip and rebuild one blindfolded!!

Apart from that, television has offered good, sound advice. Think long and hard before you take this on as it is harder than it looks to do it properly.
 
I've decided to redo my panels on my bike myself - and they are coming out alot better than I expected! AND I'm using spray cans!

So, I've decided to "splash out" and buy a spray gun for the compressor, do you have any recomendations?

I was thinking gravity fed would waste less paint, right?

Michele

For what a decent compressor and spray gun will cost, you'd be better off having your bike painted at a bodyshop.

Plus using 2-pack at home is a bit risky...
 
Make sure you have a oil and water seperator fitted on your compressor air outlet connection or you will find that your finish has oil and water spots.
 
For what a decent compressor and spray gun will cost, you'd be better off having your bike painted at a bodyshop.

Plus using 2-pack at home is a bit risky...

You cannot buy 2k now, unless you have the licence to use it.

Malcolm, why would you want to heat 2k up when it is a chemical reaction that cures it?
Surely you mean the cellulose, or it may bloom.
 
Howdy again! Thanks as alwayss,
I have a 3hp compressor, so that shouldn't be a problem...

I thought it was going to be hard too, but aparently, its just time consuming! I did one panel using Halfords cans of paint (their spray on kind) and was (very ) impressed with myself!

Fine, I spent a week just priming and sanding, and put something like 7 layers of primer before I was happy with the base...

This was a trial on a £10 rear panel I bought scratched - now I have to do the whole front (3 panels)

I was also thinking, as I'm planning (long term winter project) to set up a landie for desert travel, I could use the gun to spray that too...

I think I'll stick with 1k - with sufficient clear coat it looks pretty convincing...

One last thing; cost of paints going over 100£ its still 150£ cheaper than I got quoted to get them sprayed! (thats right, with ME filling, sanding and priming, the garage near me still wanted 250£ to spray the 4 panels on one side of the bike!)

Michele
 
I've decided to redo my panels on my bike myself - and they are coming out alot better than I expected! AND I'm using spray cans!
Hi Spinal,
If you are using aerosol spray cans and you have obtained a professional finish then well done. It has been my experience that a professional will spot an amateur's attempts at repair in a blink of an eye and will this effect the bike's resale value?

Good luck with the repair
Regards
John
 
You cannot buy 2k now, unless you have the licence to use it.

Malcolm, why would you want to heat 2k up when it is a chemical reaction that cures it?
Surely you mean the cellulose, or it may bloom.

The reason to warm to 20c is a viscosity reason so that it will pass through the flow cup in the recommended 18sec. The curing is relatively unaffected by this and in the gun it will keep for 36 hours though not recommended.

When the weather is to hot, a retarder is added to cellulose to stop blooming.

Just thinking back to the joys of 2K and plastic components, this is what you needed.

Plastic primer, then all of the following mixed together, in the right order

2K base coat
curing agent
matting agent
flexi agent
thinners

2k clear coat



Even back in the 90's 1 liter of all those came out at over £125
 
You must be using a different kind of 2k hardener to me then, as I can only keep mine in the gun for about 2 hrs before it's starts setting.

With the cellulose, just use anti-bloom thinners.;)
 
You must be using a different kind of 2k hardener to me then, as I can only keep mine in the gun for about 2 hrs before it's starts setting.

With the cellulose, just use anti-bloom thinners.;)

I used ICI for the best part but many other types when in Sweden, it was just the ratio that determined the curing time,.

Anti bloom thinners is only a slower type to slow the drying time down, it is solvents that are trapped under the dry skin that causes any blooming
 
I used ICI for the best part but many other types when in Sweden, it was just the ratio that determined the curing time,.

Correct, but there is a given ratio for 2k.
100:50:10 (all %'s)
First part is paint or laquer, 2nd is hardener and 3rd, thinners.
 
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The easiest of all to use is the HVLP setup (I use it for spraying nitro lacquer on guitars) which uses a turbine, somewhat like a backwards hoover in principle. You can get a decent hobby one for anything from £50/£100 upwards, see http://www.earlex.com/html/subcat.php?id=5&cid=5 . You get less bounceback and better coverage and it's a damn sight easier to use than pressure spraying (I've done a lot of both) with a compressor, though I have that as well. Two pack is a no-no without the proper gear, spaceman suit with positive air pressure basically. If you have a Partco locally, they may be able to do non two pack alternatives such as acrylic in sprayable quantity + thinners. (The one in Tunbridge Wells does marvellous paint matching. All the old Fender Guitar colours were car paint so all I have to tell him is it's such an such off a 55 Corvette for example and as if by magic.......)
 
The easiest of all to use is the HVLP setup (I use it for spraying nitro lacquer on guitars) which uses a turbine, somewhat like a backwards hoover in principle. You can get a decent hobby one for anything from £50/£100 upwards, see http://www.earlex.com/html/subcat.php?id=5&cid=5 . You get less bounceback and better coverage and it's a damn sight easier to use than pressure spraying (I've done a lot of both) with a compressor, though I have that as well. Two pack is a no-no without the proper gear, spaceman suit with positive air pressure basically. If you have a Partco locally, they may be able to do non two pack alternatives such as acrylic in sprayable quantity + thinners. (The one in Tunbridge Wells does marvellous paint matching. All the old Fender Guitar colours were car paint so all I have to tell him is it's such an such off a 55 Corvette for example and as if by magic.......)

When doing wood with clear lacquer, the are several 2 pack clear finishes on the market, easy to use and flash off very quickly, and polishes like glass.
 
Correct, but there is a given ratio for 2k.
100:50:10 (all %'s)
First part is paint or laquer, 2nd is hardener and 3rd, thinners.


My brother has my spec sheet book so I cant check on this, I do know that mine was good the next day.

Another way and much easier for home use is the Belco synthetic PO32 base coat system where a single or 2 pack top lacquer

I still have a liter of MB andor blue (124) if any one wants it
 
My brother has my spec sheet book so I cant check on this, I do know that mine was good the next day.

Another way and much easier for home use is the Belco synthetic PO32 base coat system where a single or 2 pack top lacquer

I still have a liter of MB andor blue (124) if any one wants it

I've got to have a clear out of my paints.
There must be over 50ltrs in the shed.

I did a 6 yr apprenticeship at a Peugeot main dealers when I left school and that's the ratios I was taught.
I've had my own bodyshop in the past and it has never failed me yet;)
 

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