Recent content by Leabrooks

No aux connector in mine (2005) or a 'knock out' dimple in the glove box. I bought the wiring loom for the aux input and lifted the passenger side door kick plate to fit said aux loom and errrmm are you kidding, theres a thousand wires down there in a tight space and none I could see with the...

To the original question, MB's correct themselves (at roughly 600 miles intervals) eg I've been running high 40's for the last month and today averaged 33mpg on the same (traffic free) trip (5am this morning). Don't ask me why, they just do, tomorrow it'll be back to 48mpg and I'll be happy...

Really? And its 18% even though your first statement says is not measurable and then ignores that very fact? So whats the tyre loss at the wheels in your car (not transmission/drivetrain but the tyre contact)?

What happens when you 'tip' the shift?? Some owners are so bone they don't realize you can change by tapping left (down the box) or right (higher)...and unless you do that the box wont learn your style? Hence the stupid answers above mine.

Power losses through a drive train are massively overestimated by dyno operators as it makes their figures look better! The biggest killer of 'transmission losses' isn't the clutch/gearbox/rear axle at all, its the tyres running on steal drums!! Even on an auto the same is true. A rolling road...

Use a tyre dressing or something like Armor All Protectant, just spray onto some soft kitchen roll/a rag or whatever and wipe over.

Forget everything everyone else has said, you can't wash, dry, polish or wax a car in direct sunlight with good results..its just not possible. Always wash and wax when your cars in the shade.

Use a detailing spray as the lube for the clay (not tap water), the trick is to use the cheapo stuff from a £1 shop or discount store, save the good stuff for after claying. You probably already know (but if you don't) add some protection (wax, sealant/both) after using polish (SRP>blackhole>or...

menzerna is the dog's danglies on a merc with a nano clearcoat, yes it takes a lot of time even with a rotary, but the results are superb. Looks great!

Go for Poorboys Black Hole followed by Poorboys Natty Blue for the paintwork after a good wash and clay.

A bottle jack and a piece of wood aids refitting ARB drop links (jack the ARB arm up to help hole alignment). Also whilst your at it replace the ARB rubber bushes in the alu brackets(cheap..£less than a tenner a pair) and de-rust and re-paint the ARB.

Yes, mine sounded just like that. Be warned on removing the rear silencer (to effectively clean the joint of old exhaust paste) that you might find your rear silencer has rust holes in it and may need replacing (as mine did). I replaced the rear silencer with an Eberspacher replacement...

I should add its not a simple slot over exhaust joint (as most exhausts), its a ball and cup arrangement with the bracket pulling the two pipe ends tight together.

Check the centre exhaust connection (after the rear cat) roughly under the middle front seat area where there's a flared joint with a large clamp around it. The clamp can sometimes break causing leaks, and the flared flanges on the pipe can rot though at this point (hidden until the clamp is...

as I said, (low sulphur) diesel fuel requires additives these days, the additives being 2EHN, oil (to add lubrication) and a disperser to mix the additives (in the base fuel) in the tank. Basically all diesel additives whether from the pump or the bottle are 2EHN to raise the cetane rating, oil...