Recent content by mdelfunt

Solved. For anyone in the future, the problem was the Quantity Control Valve that was preventing the rail pressure from achieving desired. It took 30 minutes to change and cost less than $100.

Come on guys... I can't believe no one has an opinion on this :)

Guys, I get confusing answers on this. MB shop says I have to change the whole Rail (with regulator) and that a separately purchased regulator cannot be correctly put on an existing rail. But I see the regulator can be purchased separately. I need to change mine (06 320CDI) so can anyone shine...

You are correct... I can do the leak down test without STAR. As part of an insurance claim, I had the car at the Dealer for a 6 days (diagnosing it) and they said they would need to change the HPFP, Fuel rail, and injectors. They thought it was the tank fuel pump and replaced that. But it did...

Hey guys, been a while since I was here. Got a new problem on my 06 E320 CDI. It now has 313k miles. It's going into Limp mode and getting a P2047-1 "Rail pressure monitoring via volume control valve The rail pressure is too low". The car started this all of a sudden and left me in Limp mode on...

Ok, I may have found the demon. I pulled the ECM out and found some oily looking substance down inside the front connector towards the rear of the car. So the back several pins were soaking in something. It looks like engine oil but I have no idea how it got there. I had to come down the wiring...

Do we feel the Camshaft sensor (CPS) will prevent it from starting? I replaced it and the crank sensor. I can try and clear it again when I get home today but I had thought it might not run good but it would crank and run if CPS were bad. Sounds like you feel differently?

ok, CPS shows stored but not Current. Does that lead you to other conclusions?

@Smiley - I suppose it's possible but I can't see any air leaks; fuel would most likely be spraying out if there were. @brucemillar - I'm not sure what not clearing the codes down would do to prevent it from running but I'm willing to listen. The scanner guides me through a process to clear the...

Ok guys, here's an update. Changed the Crankshaft sensor, no difference. That means a new Cam and Crank sensor. I also checked the timing gears on the camshafts relative to the crankshaft to see if it had jumped time, but it was dead on. I can't find any wiring issues; they may be there but I...

I should probably also say that it comes so close to starting that the ECM drops out the starter thinking its running. Maybe once every year when it gets way below freezing here and I crank up the car early in the morning, it will sound and act like it does not.... it takes me 2 or 3 starts in...

I know...while Pedals were used(ebay), after the the 2nd one I put on failed (or seemingly failed) I said it was no longer coincidental. I had a perfect 5.0 volts on the pedal circuit feed and both pedal sensors said they were bad on the scanner. Whether the pedals were ever bad, or they just...

Hey team, need some wisdom on my CDI, 290k miles. Engine was running fine at idle, turned it off and then went to start it back up and it won't. Cranks over fine and comes close to starting (chug chug usually to till the starter drops out thinking its running but it never rully runs). It will do...

Team - I removed to connector from the Swirl motor and put a 4.7k ohm resistor on the red and white (maybe gray) wire. I don't know if that's correct cause I couldn't find the data for a 3 pin connector. I noticed the Turbo seemed to really be working when I revved up the engine. Took it down...

a111r - I pulled the swirl motor connector off from the bottom of the engine - pain in the butt. It has 3 pins on the connector. Which pins do I put the resistor on? Looks like a brown, white, red wire. I assume there's no better way unless you remove the whole intake??