Recent content by millo777

I've replaced a rear impulse ring on my s211 and didn't need to detach the air spring from the lower wishbone. It is a massive pita job though. As well as a whole bunch of rusty bolts in awkward places, the actual abs sensor had seized into to the hub and needed to be drilled out and replaced...

Have you read the thread in the stickies section about the pulling left problem?

Full airmatic cars have controls by the gear selector to raise or lower the car. If your car doesn't have that, you have air suspension on the rear only for self levelling.

Definitely not normal. Are these front or rear air springs? and if rear, does the car have full airmatic, or just rear self levelling?

The age of the battery is entirely irrelevant. You need to get the battery tested properly to see whether it will hold charge and how many cold cranking amps it's still putting out. Places like Halfords or kwik-fit will test the battery for you free of charge, but make sure it's properly charged...

I wouldn't mind betting your memory seat modules are causing a parasitic current draw and draining the battery. It seems to be a very common problem with the w211 and and thankfully an easy fix.

I have replaced the shoes and the cables from the wheels to the mechanism on my w211. Replacing parking brake shoes on an MB is not the hardest job in the world, but can be a bit fiddly with adjusting the pads through one of the wheel bolt holes. Replacing the cables and adjusting the mechanism...

N47-5 is the ESP control module I haven't done any further investigation of the problem with w211 yet as I'm working from home so don't need the car for commuting and have another car for Tesco runs. Maybe when the weather warms up I'll get it fixed.

Just a thought, but my 320te had similar symptoms when the prop shaft centre bearing failed. Horrible whining noise, then it started knocking when it ripped the bearing mounting off. Either way, its worth checking the prop shaft bearing and flex discs while you're under the car.

You can always have a god luck at the old ones when they're off the car for peace of mind. I used a compressed air line on the brake hose attachment to pop out the piston.

You should be able to bleed the rears fine. Try and clamp the hoses so you lose as little fluid as possible. For what it's worth, MB reckon you should only use DOT4 plus from the dealer for SBC systems. Apparently its a lower viscosity than regular DOT4. Febi and few others also sell DOT 4...

I had a similar experience with my w211 rear brakes. Ended up buying rebuilt calipers from ECP as they had them in stock and rebuild kits would take a week to arrive. On examination it seems that as the rear brakes take quite a while to wear down due to brake balance, by the time it comes to...

You'll need to replace both rear air springs. You can spend a lot of time chasing false hope of a cheap fix, like the connector block on the rear sub frame etc, but the rubber on the air springs gets old and leaks. Depending on the camber of the road, weight in the car etc, every time you stop...

Thought I'd add the pinout diagram and chart here for future ref if anybody has the same issue and stumbles on this thread. In the mean time, I've also discovered a broken bonnet catch, so have to deal with that before I can even open the bonnet. Oh joy.

Just went through the xentry diagnostic. The instructions are: Connect socket box Test voltage between pins 44 and 3 is between 11v and 14v Press brake pedal and test the same again. With pedal pressed voltage should be less than 1v So, I assume the socket box is just a breakout box for loom...