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I should add that if the seam of the rear arches has swollen etc then you will have to cut it out and weld in new metal. It's almost impossible to fully get rid of the rust from a seam, though you can go some way to a semi long lasting repair with a sharp pick / hook tool to dig it out with...

You won't really get a commercial bodyshop to do that kind of work atleast not for a reasonable price. It gets the car out of their workshop quicker if they cut it all out/ replace panels. IF you have a second car, you could do all the stripping back/ rust killing/ primering yourself as there is...

You can repair even badly pitted wheel arches so well that the rust never comes back, but it is quite meticulous process and is time consuming. Also you need to use the right chemicals and paints. Bilt Hamber do a rust removing Gel which actually leaves shiny bare steel and will even remove all...

Sounds mechanical to me. If it were fuel related it would disappear on the way down because there is no fuel being injected then. There are a few things which could cause the noise you describe. My first suspicion would be the vibration damper which serves the auxiliary drive belt. The bushes on...

Sorted! It was something stupid. One of the vacuum pipes for the intelligent waste gate control was badly routed and had come off where the vac pipe goes to the brake servo. As a result, it had less than half the boost pressure it should've done! Phew!

The W210 does seem to rot out badly and literally fall apart. The W202 seems more hardy, and the main problem with these is surface corrosion rather than deep seated inside out corrosion. Most of it is down to weak, thin paint. With enough bilt hamber products, keeping it clean and dealing with...

My C250 developed this fault overnight a few days ago. If I drive along using a light throttle, it feels normal. However if I sink my foot a bit further down to overtake or go up a hill, there is just no acceleration at all. It feels like it did once when I forgot to reconnect the boost...

Well, the car nearly caught fire yesterday. This was because he supplied inadequate spec hose for the injector leak off pipes. Over 25 miles, this hose softened and plasticised and popped off no5 injector (the end cap one). This filled up all the injector recesses in the head with hot...

Update. SUCCESS!!! IT IS SORTED!!!! After drilling down to about 5mm away from the combustion chamber, another thread was cut in it, this time really really deep. Another high tensile stud screwed in, slide hammer on the end. Initially it sounded solid, like we were trying to knock off...

The drag is that the car has no MOT and isnt really driveable, and is 170 miles away! So even if I got it for say £400, I'd still have to trailer it back which would cost near £200 probably. I've since found another good candidate with 124k miles, but with an MOT. It has MOTs to back that...

Cheers for that recommendation EasyManHugo. Will bear them in mind next time! I actually spoke to them on the phone. Very helpful. On a positive note, the broken drill and the sheared bolt have been removed but the other extraction techniques have been tried to no avail. The plug just will not...

No 4 glow plug was sheared off when I bought the car. The hex just spun round, wobbled side to side but the plug wouldn't unscrew. However it still worked, so I left it be. I decided to tackle this and booked it in with a Merc specialist who said he'd removed plenty of sheared plugs. This is...

Cool. Thats cleared it up then. I just phoned them and he said 225 was the other NRV which I needed. He's going to phone me back with the full price for 225 and 18. Hopefully be able to rebuild this pump before I need to drive to manchester again next sunday!

I'm having lift pump issues too (funny that). It is fine with Derv, but anything thicker and it just doesn't deliver enough fuel at high rpms. It used to, but it has got worse. I've changed all filters and blown the feed line back to the tank with compressed air until I heard it bubbling away in...

Just started what I thought was going to be an easy and quick job... and behold, most of the pipes don't fit! Many of them barely resemble the ones coming off. The part numbers on the invoice are: A605 070 14 32 A605 070 15 32 A605 070 10 32 A605 070 12 32 A605 070 07 32 I also ordered the...

Looks like the UJ is toasted... no play but it is notchy, meaning it is dry and not long for this world. No way of lubricating that I can see... Been quoted £100 to have a new UJ fitted... or £40 plus VAT plus postage for a used rear section from Dronsfields...

bump...

Something mucky and oily, and lots of it. Paint is bound to fail sooner or later. I favour grinding as much rust out as is possible, treating, then zinc primer X 2, then black waxoyl underseal, then a damned consistent lashing of liquid waxoyl over the top. Keeps it sealed for years and years. I...

2K laquer is the most permanent/ durable. I've had good results with typical acrylic laquers though. For wheel arches 2k might be best, but wear a proper filter mask which seals around your face perfectly and is fitted with filters which can filter out the fumes. 2k is nasty stuff.

Furthermore, rusty wheel arch lips need thorough investigation. The trim needs to come off along with the wheel and you need to get brutal with the underseal on the inside of the wheel arch lip. The corrosion usually spreads just as far behind the lip as it does on the outside where it is...