The restoration kits aren't bad actually.
I always coat headlights and tail lights with whatever paint protection I'm putting on the paint since they all offer UV protection. The only exceptions I make are coatings which have heavy solvent carriers such as the Quartz and Ceramic coatings...
The issue with acidic cleaners is really about repeated use and wheels with clearcoat damage. A one off hit to sort out minging wheels wouldn't be a problem. Just rinse them really really well once they are clean.
Don't use sandpapaer! Use 000 wire wool and lubricate it with a polish but only if the polish on it's own won't cut through the dirt. Wire wool won't damage the chrome plating as much as sandpaper will.
Best polishes on the market right now (imo) are the Britemax products - Easy Cut and Final...
Hyperwash is a really nice shampoo and it is sold by some as a snow foam. It cleans fairly well but doesn't cling as well as other foams and as such it's cleaning ability is limited. The longer you can get it to stay on (without risking drying on the car) the better.
The best I have used so far...
.n white I would recommend either Toughcoat or liquidshield, They are sealants made by Auto Finesse and Concours Car Care respectively. Both look great and help flake pop nicely. They are very easy to apply and aren't fussy about how long they are left on and temperature (to some extent - I...
To be fair if you are picking the car up from new and looking after it yourself the best products you can buy are as follows:
Pressure Washer - You have already
Foam lance and foam - I use Concours Tutti Fruiit or Autobrite Magifoam. Both excellent
2 Deep buckets with...
The Gliptone stuff is very easy to use.
If you get some 4000 grit paper and very lightly sand the final layer after it's dry it makes it even softer....when you clean the seat there's no evidence of the sanding. (I sand the build up layers with 2000 as a matter of course.)
If the wheels have been lightly refurbed could it be that the dirt you see is under a clearcoat? MB wouldn't have done the job themselves, they would've got a man in, working to a price!
Have a go with clay, a coarse one. Or maybe a compounding polish on a tri-foam.
If they used your key then the second dealer would have been the one who used it last.
I would hope that a dealer would let you know if they couldn't find the key - it would be good service and a sales opportunity for them.
Peugeot did this to me years ago and removed/replaced the locking...
The only way you could do this was to use the Brabus D3 module that was supplied and fitted by your MB dealer as an accessory. It used to be the case that this didn't affect you warranty and gave you just over 200PS. It costs £1500!!
That said I believe that even this now causes warranty...
Of course not.
You know there is more to it than that. But that isn't funny is it? You can't let your sarcasm run riot if you accept that.
It doesn't matter what you think of detailing. The FACT is that is takes a long time to master the skills required to correct paintwork safely remove...
There was more to it than that and you know there was.
I've apologised privately and publicly and I would have hoped you were man enough to accept it, realise that you are far from perfect yourself and move on.
Clearly that is asking for too much.
It isn't greed to offer your customer a better service by making yourself available on a Sunday! I don't charge more for it, I don't know anyone who does!
Many people work Monday to Friday and need their cars during that time. Me working weekends is sometimes the only way they can get their...
Not in the technical sense.
Profession applies to things like teaching, law, medicine etc.
I suppose you would call it a skilled trade. It doesn't bother me how it is classified really.
I would have been classed as a "Professional" in my previous career and I enjoy this a lot more. My...