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Hi folks, a quick update on the problem. When I was away at work my wife used the car everyday to go to work which is 10 miles away (incase that makes a difference) after a week it had used 3/4 tank of fuel but one day the warning light never came on and it has stayed off ever since, 2 weeks...

Thanks for the replies folks but I'm away at work again and not near the car. The wife took it to a garage and they put it on 2 diagnostics machines and both said there was no faults. The problem seems to be that the voltage rises once the alarm has come on and the alarm will only go away once...

Thanks for the reply, this is what happening start car and voltage stays good (12.5v) leave car alone and red warning comes up then battery voltage goes up to 14.5v and stays there no matter what consumables are on. I understand what you are saying about the exitation part and not sure if that...

Sorry folks, I meant 14.5v, I am an electrician and have a clamp meter, never thought of using that, I've always thought that if you get near 14.5v at the battery everything is fine, my thoughts are thet the fault comes up too quickly as the 14.5 doesn't come up until the fault light comes on...

Thanks, I weas at it today with a snap on diagnostics tool and it showed no faults. what I have noticed is that if I push the button 3 times to get the voltmeter up then start the car the car starts and the volts drop to 10.5 - 11ish then goes up to 12.5 once the car is started, after a couple...

Thanks for that and I have just found out that if you press the trip reset button on the dash 3 times when you have the ignition on but engine not running you get the voltage displayed on the display, you have to have it on the mileage before you push the button 3 times. The voltage shows 12.5...

I've just plugged in a cheap diagmostics tool, and although my multimeter is showing 14.5v the diagnostics is showing 13.8v, would this voltage be too low and bring on the warning light?

Thanks for that, I spoke to a bloke who tests and repairs alternators and he has suggested the same, he thinks its not the alternator but maybe a computer problem or a loose terminal connection somewhere.

Hi Folks, I've been having a bit of an issue with the warning light coming on now and again for the alternator/battery on my 2005 C class estate (W203). I checked the voltage and it was 14.5v when the engine was running, I then put it on charge and the charger indicator was down a fair bit so...

I managed to copy a friend of a friends SD car today, I met him by chance and he had an old unit lying about so we tried his card and it worked. Thanks for the help. Gunners

Just been checking that again and it says tv and DAB is an optional extra so I'll have to check now to see if it's fitted. The Sat nav thing is a bit confusing as when I phoned a dealer they said it wasn't an N6 but an older version and could only run on IGO 8. Thanks

Model Sorry markmifsud, the car is a 2005 C class estate and the head unit is a dynavin MBC, I don't know if its a digital or analogue system.

Thanks, davidjpowell I have the original head unit so do you think I'd be as well fitting that back in? the reason I went for this car was because it had the sat nav, dvd player, tv and rear camera but if it's going to be a hassle I'd be as well taking it out. Whats the Audi 20?

I've searched the forum and I've come across a few things, the ariel is in the back, is that a good place to have it? is the ariel for the tv, GPS and radio? the radio is really bad and I ended up buying a CD at a service station on the way home. I don't want to pull the unit out but should...

Hi Folks, I've just bought my 1st MB, 2005 C class estate. It's got a Dynavin MBC unit fitted which there are a few problems with. I bought the car from a dealer but the previous owner removed the SD card for the satnav, I've done a lot of research into this and what I've come to is that I need...