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and the Toyota Yaris I had

land rover..but it is deliberate in the name of customer satisfaction since all Land Rovers leak, all the time and if the filter is full it guarantees this. As they say, if a Land Rover doesn't leak, it has run out of something

Ah. I changed the oil last week and found that the new filter I had was the wrong one so I ordered new filters but the oil is a week and two hundred KMs old

Apologies in advance for stupid question but can I change the W204 (C180 diesel) oil filter without draining the oil? thanks

Glad it is fixed and you probably fixed the right thing. It is never the battery and the only sure-fire wayt to know if it is the reluctor or not is to clear all codes, switch on the ignition and see if there is a warning light. If so, it is the sensor and more than likely the sensor connection...

As a matter of interest, garages here (France) often say it is the battery, change it for a vast profit and five minutes work, and it seems better. Usually this has nothing to do with the actual battery but the connections which can loosen over time or get crud on them. By changing the battery...

I am 99% sure it is not the battery. I went through this and also the Battery Management system and changed the battery and it made no difference and when you think about it, as longs as the battery will start the car then everything gets full voltage and current from the alternator when the...

Two other things to check are the SAS (Steering wheel sensor) contacts - it is the device around the steering column under the dash. Don't remove it because the chances of it being bad are close to zero since it is passive device. Just jiggle it and it you can reach the plug, unplug it and...

Not the battery or the reluctor or the sensor itself. You have a bad contact and the most likely place is where the sensor plugs into the connector under the wheel arch. Unplug it and switch off the ignition and clear codes. Check the contacts and the plug are clean and plug it in a jiggle it to...

To clarify. The CAN bus is a great CSMA/CD bus but someone, somewhere has to write the code in the various ECUs to decide what to do with the signals. Mercedes is pretty good and I have not seen any wildly ridiculous treatments of messages. The ECUs also drive the warning lights of course. Also...

Of course the SAS is used by the ESP and DSC and emergency braking and so on and all of these rely on knowing wheel speeds, as does ABS. All of these functions are inputs to the Bosch ABS unit and, depending on how the application level programmers see things, you end up in the dreade...

I wish I had the monopoly on problem solving but alas... Sensors failing within a short period of time of each other could be just coincidence but when you changed the reluctor ( a magnetic type I assume) was it broken or demagnetised? Either is a bit odd and breaking would be the most obvious...

Seems to be a common problem and you can find a **** post from me further on after finally cracking the problem. Here is what I learnt. If you are driving along and these warnings appear you can draw three conclusions: It is not the reluctor or impulse ring It is very unlikely to be the ESP or...

In cas anyone ever needs to get at the impulse ring, this video is excellent and he removes the hub and gets to the ring without even removing the brake caliper! Excellent

Why hadn't I done this yet - laziness and thinking I could diagnose in a different way. However, this morning I took off the right rear sensor (which works) and replaced it with a new one and tested. It works still but the left rear doesn't. I fitted the old right rear sensor to the left rear...

Still not out of the woods. I cleared all DTCs using iCarsoft expêcting that the car would show no warning lights but it did even though it was neither moved nor started. Why? I also tried the trick of using magnets attached to a drill to rotate in front of the sensor to see if the sensor...

I tired a variant of this using the iCarsoft tool and telling it the car was LHD or RHD but the same wheel was shown at fault. I should probably do it properly as you mention! :)

Anyone point me to any sites where there is a step by step guide to removing the hub totally or partially to replace the ring? There are a couple of Youtube videos but they are not too clear or the audio is unintelligible. thanks I have the WIS but it is not really much use either!

I found a French diagnostics website that is adamant that it is either the sensor or the ring. I have looked through the hole and see no signs of rust or anything and it seems to be the magnetic type rather than the toothed type so it looks like I will have to bit the bullet and remove the hub...

iCarsoft scan now tells me: No CAN data received from control module N47-5 etc or from control module brake system. So, now what? Does this means the ESP/ABS module is duff? Many people seem to have this problem Thanks for any pointers