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Put this onto my car last week. The car is fitted with a Fi valvetronic exhaust courtesy of Eurocharged Watford. Currently still using the primary and secondary cats.

the TPMS will work regardless whether on runflat tyres or not, that much i can tell you for sure. 'reset runflat indicator' is just the terminology chosen, it's not suggesting that you should have runflat tyres. it does seem strange that the psi dropped by 7psi without a message...did all...

if it ever materialises! it's getting a bit frustrating now. hold up in customs at both ends apparently.

i have an fi system on order with paul at eurocharged...order it five weeks ago!! it's taking it's time. have gone for the valvetronic setup and leaving the headers standard fingers crossed this will be fitted by the end of next week.

With the handbrake applied in D even a gentle touch on the accelerator will get the car moving let alone full throttle. For a modern car the merc system seems very antiquated and weak. I always feel that when I park the car up and apply the handbrake it is the fact that it is in P that...

to the OP...don't beat yourself up about it, there is nothing you can do to prevent diamond cut wheels corroding. in my opinion it doesn't have anything to do with the removel or refitting of the centre caps, the little lugs that hold the centre caps in are plastic...there is very little...

I don't think I have PM privileges yet, so just a few questions if I may: 1) What tyre sizes are you running front and rear? 2) With that offset did you ever have any issues with the tyres rubbing the arches? I've got a saloon and on occasion carry people in the back. Suspension will remain OE.

:doh: oh dear....I've now seen that they do a 12- and 15-spoke version of this wheel. The 15-spoke is about as close the factory 19" wheel as you are going to find that is dished and concave, and it looks awesome. The pics are all in the finish that I am looking at, which is black brushed...

Thanks for posting up pics. Will send you a PM. nice!...i'm going to for the flat style centre cap aswell, the 3D one looks a little too conspicuous. I agree...the factory 19" is a great looking wheel, however I just think they sit in the arch too much. Which could easily be solved...

Rashman - do you have a picture of your centre caps? i see they do a flat badge aswell as a 3D one.

every time i look at the wheel it just looks stunning...and equally so on your CLK, the concave rear looks fantastic. i think 10j on the back will be as wide as i go. what tyre sizes are you running on them? have you got 8.5j on the front?

thanks...I do remember that post. lovely wheel....but just didn't quite do it for me. i've pulled that thread up again and unfortunately the pics are no longer available. but the setup is interesting: 10j rears ET50 and 8.5j front ET40

I've currently got the stock 18" AMG alloys on my C63 but want to upgrade to a set of 19s. I'm going to go for something aftermarket as opposed to the factory 19s. I am considering a set of HB-29 BC alloy wheels: I would like the rears to stick out a bit more than the...

wow...that's dedication!

i appreciate your point and for me it makes for interesting debate. there are so many areas to consider, and many assumptions to be made on the procedures, quality of material and castings used that you can counter one argument with another all day long. in practise people would be very lucky...

would the porosity of the base material not play any part in the corrosion? also seeing as alloy wheels are made from a cocktail of materials and the quality of the casting varies from one wheel manufacturer to the other could this not contribute to the corrosion beneath the lacquer of...

Unfortunately corrosion under the lacquer is an inherent flaw in any diamond cut finish. Any sort of penetration through the lacquer, whether it be kerb damage or even stone chipping, will allow water ingress which will then start to look white under the lacquer. Whilst I am sure OE...

is slough too far? www.the-autowerks.com

nope....no high temp paint, just regular waterbased automotive paint. have done many callipers like this and have never had any issues with the fact that the paint isn't "high temperature". just to give you an example, when refurbishing wheels we use a powdercoat primer and then paint the...

high build primer, waterbased automotive paint mixed from a bodyshop for the colour, and a 2k air-dry lacquer.....all put through a paint gun