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I just got 2 long lengths of wire and crimped 2 small female spade connectors on the end of each one which I had to squeeze until they just pushed onto the connectors on the pump where the electric plug goes. I then fitted the pump then connected the other ends of the wire to a 12 volt power...

I've had a halfrauds purchased nextbase 202 lite in my truck so gets used for many hours every hour of the week for well over a year and it's still going strong. Video quality isn't the best but it's good enough.

Better than a crappy golf? [emoji6]

I paid more but I'm impatient and wanted it quickly. I went for a drive yesterday and the power seems more constant. When the pumps failed as mine seems to have been, is the amount of power loss variable depending on how hot it gets until it gets really hot and completely shuts the kompressor...

Well hopefully with the new pump it'll not do it again

I've been for a fairly long arduous drive round town in this warm weather and on the way home got chance to get the heal to the steel. I an report so far so good. Thing is, these cars are too darn fast! You can't give them the beans anywhere! Just feels like you're tickling it all the time lol...

Well, got round to doing my IC pump today, not difficult but very fiddly. The one that's come off is the original 003 and I've fitted a 10. As I had the wiring sorted for bleeding it I thought I'd try the old pump just for curiosity. DEAD as a dodo. Not even a click! Is this normal considering...

Well, got round to doing my IC pump today, not difficult but very fiddly. The one that's come off is the original 003 and I've fitted a 10. As I had the wiring sorted for bleeding it I thought I'd try the old pump just for curiosity. DEAD as a dodo. Not even a click! Is this normal considering...

Just come across this post. Mine does the boing thing. I knew it wasn't right but assumed some kind of damper was broken so not got round to investigating. I will do so this weekend now I've read that great write up. Thanks.

I have done loads of searches on trying to get into engineer mode on my HU. The most common way seems to be holding mute/call end/serv. for 45 seconds but this doesn't work for me. Anybody got any more suggestions? This picture isn't of mine but is identical. Thanks.

That sounds good. C63 boxes eh? Are they a direct fit then?

^^^^^takes me back to my yoof [emoji849]

https://youtu.be/GdzX1o6jKaA

No, I have used them in the past as they are powerflow dealers. The other place in doncaster, Carr hill to be precise is called custom pipes and they do have a good reputation. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Fair old trek from doncaster to MK. He's got some good reviews though.

Don't do fakebook [emoji17] I'll give him a Google though [emoji1360] I do have a place near me, custom pipes, doncaster that are supposed to be pretty good. I just wanted half an idea what to ask for.

Yes I know exhausts have been discussed a thousand times so I apologise to anybody that takes offence. Right, now that's out the way I'll continue [emoji4] The E55k sounds great for stock but a bit bass and a few more db's wouldn't go amiss. I don't want to spend a fortune on headers and/or...

There is nothing wrong with the analogue speedo. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The analogue is correct. In the picture it shows I was doing 60MPH which is what I was doing. The dispute is why the digi display is showing 38MPH.

It's like the digi dial thinks I'm doing 40mph so tells the analogue dial to show 60kph which I wasn't, I was definitely doing 60mph. The digi should really have been showing close to 100 as the analogue dial doesn't show kph as well as mph which every uk car I've ever driven does. Mind you...