Search results

sorted, after all the fuss, turned about to be bad fuse no28

Thankyou PIff, I went to Mercedes two years back on when I had the tie rods done as described above for MOT and like you I was quoted something silly hence my mechanic did it for £80 for both sides and two years later and two MOT's since, no issues as yet. As well I had a problem with the CV...

Thankyou guys, so the consensus is that this mot failure is a tie rod ball joint ( inner or outer), I remember getting this done on my Mercedes B class, ( the inner ones on both sides) the part from GSF was about £40 for both sides if I call from memory) and the labour by a very skilled...

Thanks guys, I know if it's a ball joint like a tie rod, it will be simple and relatively cheap but beacuse the mot failure states "Steering linkage" I was worried this meant the steering Rack, which is not an easy fix, so I suppose my questions is which part needs replacing according to the MOT...

does anyone know what this means, it's nothing to do with my mercedes but my daughter's non Mercedes, I tried to phone the MOT garage but thier explanation left me no wiser and now they will be closed for some time. the failure is for "Offside Front Steering linkage ball joint ball joint dust...

Just to update, took a chance and bought two used shockers complete to make it easier to replace, now almost two years and 25K miles later still going strong, £80 for the parts and £40 labour, been on motorways from Notts to Portsmouth, around 350 mile trip, no issues whatsoever regardless of...

Still have this problem, turn on ignition key, sidelights and headlights come on regardless of rotary switch position, replaced rotary switch, no change, so not the rotary switch, unable to turn on foglights as rotary switch operation makes no difference but when I lock car with fob, I can see...

sorted, problem was the telephone cradle and original Mercedes Radio

I had a battery drain issue, I took it to a garage who played around and messed up the lights so they started coming on all the time the ignition was on, prior to this no such issue, the garage then told me it was the headlight control unit that was faulty, presume they meant ballast unit, not...

Hi Steveamg, I know yours is an old post but I am now having same issue with my car, did you ever manage to sort yours out, if so what was your solution please

Nick managed to trace the battery drain to the phone cradle module and the factory fitted radio, advised there was a draw down of about 0.5 amp, will see over the next few days if all is now good however the headlights are always on regardless of what position the headlight switch is in, i.e...

Finally found someone, who tells me the most likely problem is the small battery cable running off the positive battery post, there is a short going to the battery, dealer part but cheap, he stated this is a common problem with the W245? anyone know of this?

Yes, tried them but they have no bookings until August, I have found someone called Nick Ince, Auto Electrician, to look at it much sooner but although he sounds great, I do not have any recommendations for him

Hi Guys, any suggestions. I have a parasitic battery drain, took it to a friends garage, who seemed to think it was a headlight control unit he did not fill me with any confidence and has no STAR diagnostic tools. My car is a 2007 B180CDI, no power seats, after market anything, no zenon lights...

I have googled many times but all I keep getting is a headlight ballast, I just can't think this is what the mechanic means? is this the cause of my battery drain? what I could understand was that he said it's not the light switch but that when that is set to auto lights and I take the key out...

No I do not have Xenon headlights, just standard, which are very poor at night, mine is a 2007 SE 180CDI, the only extra thing it has are leather seats but not heated or electric

Thanks Grober, No I did manage to work out, he definetely did not mean the switch, he repeated several times, Headlight Control Unit???

I was never able to get my battery drain issue sorted but now that garages are open, I took the car to my local mechanic and he tells me it's a fault with the Headlight Control unit but as he is quite deaf, communications with him can be a problem and so I was not able to understand what this...

Ho, So I managed to get in the car with my key and with was able to jump start car, after connecting the jump leads, the car would at first not tick over, waited a couple of minutes, tried again and it started up, removed the jump leads and let the car idle for 1 hour and 20 minutes before...

My Original Battery was a Varta 74Ah 680A, I had ordered a DriveTec battery from GSF with specification 77Ah and CCA 780A but infact received a DriveTec 72Ah 650A but the RAC chap who replaced it the first time around, said it was very close to the original Varta so should be OK