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I’d be interested in buying if you were selling, obviously depending on condition and price etc..

I recently fitted new bags for someone who wanted to do it a bit cheaper and I used NTY air springs from AUTODOC, they were £106 each and seemed fairly reasonable in quality, only time will tell I suppose.

No it’s more likely a fault however recalibration might clear the fault for a while.

You can recalibrate the range sensor, you can defo do it with autel and obviously star.

Fuel temp sensor?? Fuel pressure regulator or rail pressure sensor. Can also be the wiring that is breaking down under the temperature?

I’ve had to bring the condenser block from the pipes in the past. I used a belt sander but some sort of dremmel attachment might work?? Otherwise a bit of gentle heat and make sure you replace the o rings in there Does the stud not unscrew as well? (Female torx) Allowing a bit of twisting...

Inlet port shut off motor? Exhaust back pressure sensor? Turbo actuator? Airmass sensor? Coolant temp sensor? Throttle position sensor? I could guess more but you’d be better checking it for codes, if none then you need to scroll through the hundreds of streams of data while the fault occurs.

Unlikely to fail on emissions, and I don’t think it would trigger a light, think the oxygen sensor on a diesel is just for EGR control not for monitoring catalyst function. Better to make it look like it’s still there ( ie gut it) Or better still just leave it as is!!

Chemical guys - bare bones. I was sceptical using it on my 63 as it’s oil based and like you didn’t want it black looking. Any way used it as a friend had showed me pictures on his car and it’s awesome. Can be sprayed or brushed on and can go on virtually every surface. Leaves a nice clear...

Blower motor itself?? Give it a bang with your hand and if it comes on it’s more likely the motor than the resistor.

Well if you get a diag on it you can probably tell fairly easily. It’ll have speed sensor fault codes and show a discrepancy on the shaft speeds.

Conductor plate, new oil and filter, new pilot bushing (connector plug sealing part) Check the trans ecu for oil in it. Might want to look at the radiator part number and post it as it may have the issue of leaking coolant in to the trans oil. I would use quality parts to save any hassle, but...

Start at the beginning again, scan it for codes, check fuel pressure data on diag when cranking, also check rpm sensor data when cranking. Make sure there isn’t a damaged connector like to the the rail pressure sensor.

I’m pretty sure that qualifies you as an engineer now! 😉

You need to have it tested properly, injector leak off test using relief valve and injector blanks. Or throw parts at it until you fix it. I would search for specialist diesel services in your area If they’ve for the right equipment then it shouldn’t take long to diagnose

All sorts buddy, low pressure fuel leaks, fuel filter, rail pressure sensor, rail pressure regulator but most likely it’ll be injectors.

Not sure what you’ve tried? But I tend to take the black plastic blanking plug out at the bell housing if the transmission and from there you can hold the rear of a torque converter bolt with a lever and jam it against the casing. 2 man job right enough.

Try putting the car up on wedge style ramps or a 4 poster ramp, run the car and manually adjust the height sensor so that full height is required and see if the rear decides to go up. If it does then it’s the height sensor, if it doesn’t then there’s something else going on. (Also make sure...

Crankshaft sensor?