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Mini update... So far so good!! Rotor arm has no burning at all and the car is running sweet! Thanks again for all of your help

It can’t do any harm if you want to put some pictures up

It can’t do any harm if you want to put some pictures up

I checked all of the leads for resistance and they checked out (1kohm) and they are only a few years old. A set of leads won’t do any harm tho, I agree. I will look to get a set priced up Monday...

Sounds like a wise way to go to me! I will do a few miles and see how it looks. I don’t see it being the coil either. I have rechecked the timing too and that’s spot on (TDC at idle with no vac advance) and the vacuum advance is fine (checked with vac pump, holds vacuum and visually moves to...

Update time.... I have 3 red/black cables to the + side of my coil and a green and black to the - side of the coil. I also have the correct diagnostic cabling and the Tacho and and diagnostic cabling in the block on the inner wing. It’s all factory wiring and matches the wiring diagram for 12v...

This is becoming a tricky thing to get to the bottom of... this is a picture of mine just to confuse the matter. They both have the same 4 connections, is there any way to tell by what’s inside of it??...

I see where your coming from and can see how one of the resistors are by passed during cranking. I will check the loom set up I’ve got tomorrow and then I can determine which way to go with it. Is there a tester in existence to measure ht voltage at the dizzy cap and then that can be cross...

I will call strip it all back and have a look tomorrow morning. The 2 random wires that have been crimped together (white and brown) could have been added for a component that has been retrofitted and removed years ago... there is also a ring connector on the abs bracket that’s been added to...

Found this wiring diagram on the online workshop manual I have for the 126 044 500 sec that I have and this is how mine appears to be wired. Would this be the later type after the change over? It’s for MY 83, 84 and 85 so I would say it applies to my car? But, there is no mention of any ballast...

Also, if you’ve got any more photos of the locations and wire colours etc to make things any easier for me to identify that would be perfect

2 new resistors ordered from Mercedes for Saturday . I will get them fitted and then update you from there. Thanks again.

Thanks for the massive in depth reply! I will lol into the voltages I’ve got when the new battery arrives and then go from there...

But the coil is 0221118329 and is a Bosch item with a merc stamp underneath... is that the later coil? Primary Windings 0.2 ohm and secondary windings 8.8k ohms so I would say good?? Where do we go next?...

Just had a little wire brush and a check and I’ve got the 0025452632 transistor box so it may appear somebody has taken them out and wired it as the later type? Is it a modification that can be done if the modules are the same that it’s wired into? In which case I can order the later coil to go...

Gents, Some photos from tonight. I have the correct BP6ES plugs and I have regapped them from 40 to 32 thou. I have also found that my battery needs replacing. I have no resistors at all so I assume I’m the later type? If so, do I need a non resistor coil? Also, this wiring looks far from...

Your asking questions now. I will be home from work at 5:30. What do you want a specific picture of??

WDB 1260442A141252

Thanks for that. I’ve got workshop pdf manuals that have been very helpful. One last thing, was it 12v to the coil? The wiring diagram I’ve got implies that it is unless you know different?

I will heck the vacuum advance tonight when I return gap and check the plugs. Also, from a static timing point of view, I assume it’s number 1 piston at tdc on compression stroke and at that point rotor arm should point to number 1 plug lead on the dizzy cap? Then with a timing light at idle...