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I bought this car from @Dammit just over three years ago (see threads below), on the basis that he'd fixed "everything" on it already. It's been a pleasure to own, comfortable on the motorway, fast on the autobahn, flowing nicely down a country road and easy to manoeuvre in town. I've now got...

The only precaution I took was turning the headlights off and removing the ignition key ;-) And I'm still alive. The power supply is delivered to the back of the bulb via the square connector. The actual electrical 'live' parts are well embedded in the socket of this connector. As far as I...

I think there's something to this. It's easy to browse online and say 'the market price is £x'. However, when you actually try to buy one of these cars you find (a) they're pretty rare (especially the estates), and (b) there are a lot out there in poor condition - they weren't the best built...

For Japanese imports, if they are 2006 or newer petrols then they are good for ULEZ, any petrol from 06 is assumed to meet the emissions standard. It's earlier models where the UK market cars are compliant, but it's hard to prove a JDM import is, where you can lose out. However an E63, being...

This thread is always useful when looking at Mercs of this era https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/galvanising-of-mercedes-cars.34227/ a 2004 car will be galvanised, but that doesn't mean it can't rust. you're right to get any car inspected - I think if possible, it's ideal to find a local Merc...

As it comes out, the larger square cut-out in the rim will be uppermost - you will need to insert the replacement bulb in the same orientation. (The cut-out that's pointing off to the left in this pic) Insert the replacement bulb, holding it by the black base to avoid getting finger-grease on...

After unclipping the two clips, the bulb should be loose and come out easily, looking like this The blackened mid-section above shows why this bulb is in need of replacement - a good bulb is clear throughout.

With the power connector removed we see the base of the bulb itself. The bulb is held in place by the two wire clips you see below, which pivot left and right at their top end, and hook into a clip in the holder at the bottom end. You slide the lower end of each clip inwards towards the bulb...

With the dust cap removed we see the power connector to the base of the bulb. This too comes off with an eighth of a turn anti-clockwise. It's a bit like removing a house lightbulb from a bayonet fitting, but here you're removing the fitting from the bulb rather than vice-versa. Mine both...

Coming round the back we find the large round dust cap. It opens by twisting anticlockwise about one-eighth of a turn. These can be a bit stiff - don't be afraid to get a good grip on the outer rim and twist it open like a recalcitrant jam jar.

Pic of the lights I'm talking about - these are the W203 C55 saloon/estate, same as the second-gen W209 CLK I believe. The dipped beam lives in the outer headlight (the inner one has the main beam and the sidelight).

A week ago, driving home in the dark, I got a message on the dash saying my left headlight wasn't working. The message went away and the bulb did then light up, but looking at it from the front, I could see it was noticeable purpler than its right-hand counterpart. Clearly needing changing...

If you want to try, you could remind the garage that under EU law (which the UK hasn't yet repealed) goods are guaranteed for two years from purchase, try checking out the advice here Two-year warranty (EU law) . From the sound of it, it's not a 100% slam-dunk, but often works.

Sorry I seem to have caused confusion... I bought Dammit's previous AMG estate from him (the C55). Hence recommending this car if anyone's looking for an E63 :)

It's been to Alex Crow, they did the front springs and top mounts and propshaft bearing. However hence asking for other recommendations. Thanks to all who have made suggestions, I've booked it in at All Klasse, so will see where we get to.

I'm in Cambridge My 2007 C55 is leaking oil (visible marks on the driveway). It's been to Alex Crow and they've diagnosed it as the rear main crank seal (a known issue on the M113 engine). However, Alex Crow don't do this repair, since in they past they've done the fix and it's started leaking...

Just to say that I had a very positive experience buying a car from Dammit (both the car itself and the transaction), so wholeheartedly recommended if anyone here is looking for an E63 :thumb:

Looking at the pic, your cars were parked opposite a T-junction. If it was dark, it's possible the van driver was tanking along the sideroad and didn't realise his road came to an abrupt end at the junction. If he reached the junction doing 30mph and only then realised it wasn't a crossroads...

I saw a similar message in my 2007 C55, in my case the COMAND actually shut off after 20 secs or something to save battery. At that point the battery had been drained and was too low to start the car. Basically if the battery voltage is low the car will disconnect various non-essential items...

One possibility could be that a short circuit made the ignition live (as if you put the key in the 'on' position), and the alarm saw the car being 'started' without the key authenticating, and so triggered? That could possibly explain both the horn and the unstoppable engine.