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Great technical advice thanks geez

£450 for a turbo recon exchange plus seals + labor.so about £700 all in. main dealer price £960 for just recon/exch plus labor etc. I'm going for the cheaper option but still not sure that this is the problem.

Looks like I'm going to have to start with replacing Turbo this has come up twice as a fault on diagnostics. It's also the cheaper of the two. My thinking is if it's flagged up twice it needs fixing anyway even if ultimately isn't the cause öf the hard shifting. Not happy

Here goes. My gears shift hard into all gears when stationery. When my foot is on brakes while I D the engine seems to rev higher and car is raring to go quickly. Star diagnostic shows only fault as being (fault code 2592 001 component Y77/1 charge pressure positioner) described as Turbo...

now it seems my torque is gone.

It's not in user manual it's supposed to be in boot with Jack etc. I can't seem to Google it either.

Wow

Can anyone tell me where I may find the location of the fuse for the drivers heated seat? S320 CDI w221 (2009) Many thanks in advance

I have changed the duo valve or change over valve. The buzzing noise is gone and I had heat for several days now it has shut down completely.

That doesn't seem to work on my s320. There may be another combination to check my sensors. But it now seems to have shut down completely, it's been several hours now. It deff is an electrical issue but where?

Ok this is getting strange. I haven't had a chance to flush the system & pipes but all of a sudden after freezing cold för two days the heating is back as if nothing happened. Now I'm confused. Yes when it was cold it was on both sides of car

The fan was working fine at all levels until it cut out at 85c, about 30 minutes later it came back on and was blowing cold. For hours. Today however the heat is back and it hasn't shut down. I'm happy but puzzled. On touching the valve one pipe is cooler than the others.

i am still baffled as to what may be cutting out the ac ie the fan goes off and will restart again some time later and will decide to blow cold instead of hot.

Took out the blower to give it a clean and check regulator for water damage but looks new and all seems to be working find. The electrical pump seems to be working as I can hear it and can feel it working when I touch it. However I now suspect the change-over valve (or shut off valve) below...

"Low refrigerant pressure" not sure but I do notice moisture on the outside öf windscreen when AC is cold. P's the pump is silent when set at coldest point.

The buzzing is deffinately coming from the electric pump as you say. But what do you think is switching off the AC. It's just the Av heater/fan that goes off then will start again, I noticed it goes off when idle at lights eğ but 2 ill eventually start again, the electric pump does not go off...

It's seems my heater blower A/C problem is getting worse the ac now randomly shuts down all together. And will restart when it wants. The buzzing noise seems to be coming from the engine compartment not from the blower heater fan. A heater booster pump is now the suspected culprit as the noise...

It's seems my heater blower A/C problem is getting worse the ac now randomly shuts down all together. And will restart when it wants. The buzzing noise seems to be coming from the engine compartment not from the blower heater fan. A heater booster pump is now the suspected culprit as the noise...

can you recommend and provide contact details for your man who can take off the dashboard to access AC?

Well I removed the heater blower motor and the sound a humming noise is coming from elsewhere it is not the blower. I wonder if there is another fan besides the big cooling fan on rad?