124 service items 12k

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Ade B

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 26, 2006
Messages
1,831
Location
South London
Car
2006 Accord Tourer iCDTI EX
The CE is due a 12k service - its on 70k miles. It had the monster 36k service 15 months ago and ATF, various filters, brake discs + pads, plugs and checks were undertaken.

Looking at the service book I understand the following is required as its on the 12k cycle:
  1. Check fluid levels to tranny
  2. Oil and filter change
  3. Rear axle fluid
  4. Check all hoses and cables
  5. Check Cooling sytem, atf, brake system, PAS, battery, windshield washer, ac
  6. Poly V belt, does this need replacing, its almost 2 years and 19k old - nothing apparently wrong with it?
  7. Lubricate throttle linkage and rods, check for wear
  8. Check ball joints and rubber boots what do I look for?
  9. Tyres check tread and pressures
  10. Discs and pad check thicknesses what is the tolerance for discs - they were replaced at the 72k service?
  11. Parking brake check, what do I check? - it works fine
  12. Steering free play and linkage what is an acceptable amount of play, there is quite a bit with the engine off (an inch each way) but it seems fine when running - the car pulls slightly to the left?
  13. General checks of lights, wiper etc.
Most of the above can be tackled on the drive (weather permitting), the car currently has no known faults apart from NS window motor/switch...

Any input appreciated

Cheers
Ade
 
The long term items that are often missed out- complete brake fluid change every 2 years-- it's hygroscopic- absorbs water and braking efficiency can be compromised. Check the age of your antifreeze with winter coming on. It should be changed every 3 years 50/50 mix antifreeze/water. It doesn't lose its antifreeze properties but does lose its anti-corrosion inhibitors. This can effect the longevity of the CHG / radiator/ autotransfluid heat exchange coil in the radiator.
In answer to your questions
poly V belt-- visual inspection is fine- no fraying no cracking of the rubber V's means things are OK
balljoints/ rubber boots you are looking for visible tears/damage or any leakage/loss of grease. The ball joints should checked at MOT time.
If your discs have developed a visible lip at the edge where the pad doesn't operate time to get them checked for wear. You will easily feel this with your fingers when cold!!.
Parking brake-- its a good idea to grease the handbrake cable mechanism particularly the spring lever arrangement where it divides into 2 separate cables to each wheel.
steering play- what you describe sounds normal- some people advocate partial renewal of the steering pump fluid ( use MB fluid not ATF) and the filter at around this mileage but not scheduled officially by MB
Mercedes steering is quite sensitive to road camber but if this pulling to the left persists on a flat road then maybe time to get it tracked?
 
Last edited:
Thanks Grober, helpful as ever.

Antifreeze is less than 12 months old as the rad came out for a flush in spring.

Will have a poke round the ball joints / brakes and under the car when the weather improves (its truly vile at the moment)..

Re the pulling to the left, its not that bad - in France it went away completely on the motorway with opposite camber so I'm saving 4 wheel alignment until I have to break the front suspension apart to replace bushes/ball joints - there are a lot of corroded fixings so I hope to get the whole lot overhauled in one go (hopefully next year's project but might be sooner than later) There is no knocking or clunking yet..

Just been to Croydon MB bought a OS front window motor (it went the same way as the driver's motor, checked the switch with the multimeter it was fine, stripped the motor and it was rotating partway round and then jamming - corroded and knackered bushes and then I mullered the end of the shaft thumping it back together [ahem]...) £188 :rolleyes:

MOT is due next month, so I hope to iron out any issues prior.

Finally, I am assuming that to check wheel bearings you just jack up the offending corner and give the wheel a good wiggle to check for play and then spin it - bearing wear will show up as a grindy noise when free wheeling??

Ta

Ade
 
>>bearing wear will show up as a grindy noise when free wheeling??

It can do - here's what I found;

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=58077

In by far the majority of cases, if there's no discernible play, and the bearing is quiet, you'll be OK.

The other thing to check with W124 ball joints is that they are quiet - mine are creaking a bit when steering at walking speeds, and so, I'm going to change them very soon.
 
There is a special way to check the ball joints on 124's 190's 129's

Jack the front lower arm up until the car comes off the ground and the weight is off the joint.

Use a prybar under the tyre or on the joint itself to check for play. 8/10 have play 'cos they rarely get checked.
 
>>There is a special way to check the ball joints on 124's 190's 129's

Yes, it's similar for any lower ball joint that remains pre-loaded by the spring when jacked up. Morris Minor lower trunnions being the "classic" example.
 
Out of interest, is there an 'approximate' or 'book' time for lower balljoint replacement on 124s/201s etc?

Will
 
Out of interest, is there an 'approximate' or 'book' time for lower balljoint replacement on 124s/201s etc?

Will
It depends on if the wishbone bolts come out (it is usually quicker to remove the wishbone to replace the ball joints) but typically it is doable within an hour.
 

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