12v power in/near glovebox

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Pev

New Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Brisbane, Australia
Car
2005 C230 Kompressor
I'm installing a dashcam that is to be powered permanently (it has it's own auto-off) as it has a mode for recording while parked. I read somewhere that the cd changer has a permanent source of 12v - after much searching can't seem to find the post or any others about removing the changer and what is to be expected behind there.

Alternatively if someone has a suggestion of another place to hook in for permanent power please offer!

One issue is the cable isn't very long (it leads to a female cig adaptor), so a source in or near the glovebox would seem ideal. In case it's of relevance I plan to install a second cig adaptor in there too (powered like the regular cig port though) so I can put my bluetooth audio thing in there and free up the main one in the dash.

Any help or suggestions welcomed!
 
you could run a feed from the glovebox light as that seems to be a permanant feed
 
you could run a feed from the glovebox light as that seems to be a permanant feed

Thanks candi, I had dismissed that when looking around in there myself because of the light going on/off, but of course giving it due second thought that's a great idea - just need to get to the source before the switch.

Cheers!
 
you could run a feed from the glovebox light as that seems to be a permanant feed

Thanks for the suggestion candi but unfortunately the light in the glovebox actually does only seem to work when accessories are on.

In any case I removed the cd changer (surprisingly easy, just one torx screw) and found the plug supplying power plus (presumably) wakeup. Rather than go by experiment, can anyone here can offer a definitive pin-out for the power plug on a 2005 CL203 CD changer?

On an unrelated note, after pulling out the cd changer I noticed a hole which allowed me to feed the lead from the audio aux plug through to behind the ashtray where it connects to my bluetrip in the cig lighter. Nice and neat now.
 
In any case I removed the cd changer (surprisingly easy, just one torx screw) and found the plug supplying power plus (presumably) wakeup. Rather than go by experiment, can anyone here can offer a definitive pin-out for the power plug on a 2005 CL203 CD changer?

Can you not get a multimeter on the pins?
 
Can you not get a multimeter on the pins?

Thanks but I'm really not sure what's going on with the multimeter. I took a reading from the cigarette lighter, perfect 12.something volts. I managed to get a reading of -12v off the cdc power lead, so thought cool just got my polarity around the wrong way, but then switching the poles gave me some weird reading. At that point I thought easier if someone has the definitive pins and they concur with the opposite of the -12v reading then cool. Time marches on however.

So this morning I located the fuse boxes (all 3 of them!), took a reading from the fuse for the cd changer and also got another weird reading - so perhaps my multimeter is cactus.

The little piece of paper that describes the fuses is pretty light on detail, and having just cleared my time/date/trip meter and heaven knows what else by removing a fuse shared by "instrument cluster" I got a serious case of the ****s and decided to put it back and leave it again. I'm thinking I'll either invest in the service manual or just get my dealer to do it as it's taking so long and I just don't have access to any information - and even something as simple as taking out a fuse could have nasty consequences! First bloody time I've used the trip computer since I've had the car and that's when I manage to clear it. Pfft.
 
For closure on this the cd changer power lead seems to have a good source of +ve but no reliable negative (for me at least), so in the end I ran a twin-core from the cig lighter to give me both accessory +ve, permanent -ve, and tapped cd changer for permanent +ve. Once I manned up and accepted splicing the wiring it was quick and easy. The power lead can be tucked under trim all the way from the mount at the top of the windscreen to sneaking into the glovebox with only an inch or so visible when the door is open.
Thanks for the replies.
 
If your car is pre 2005 facelift, do not use the CDC power as a permanent feed !!!! It is fed from the stereo and you risk blowing up the stereo. I have seen someone blow up there COMAND 2.0

MY05 onward it is fed from the fusebox at the drivers end of the dashboard under the cover, which is all permanent power, which would have been a good place to get power from, using a correctly fused fuse holder plugged into a spare slot.

The CDC has a permanent negative (brown) so I worry as to why you found it didn't.

Please, for your own safety, ensure that you used wire from that can take the maximum current available to the cigarette lighter (I can't remember if its 25A or lower (or use a inline fuse next to where you soldered/spliced the connection), check the fusemap which is in with that fusebox I refer to), and same for CDC power (which is 7.5A I think)


Richard
 
If your car is pre 2005 facelift, do not use the CDC power as a permanent feed !!!! It is fed from the stereo and you risk blowing up the stereo. I have seen someone blow up there COMAND 2.0

MY05 onward it is fed from the fusebox at the drivers end of the dashboard under the cover, which is all permanent power, which would have been a good place to get power from, using a correctly fused fuse holder plugged into a spare slot.

The CDC has a permanent negative (brown) so I worry as to why you found it didn't.

Please, for your own safety, ensure that you used wire from that can take the maximum current available to the cigarette lighter (I can't remember if its 25A or lower (or use a inline fuse next to where you soldered/spliced the connection), check the fusemap which is in with that fusebox I refer to), and same for CDC power (which is 7.5A I think)


Richard

Oh that does sound like good advice for the forum, thanks Richard. Mine is a facelift MY05 however, so does that mean I'm safe?

The device only draws .12 of an amp so shouldn't have a power problem I hope. Also, the wire spliced to the cdc power does have an inline fuse, though I'm no expert but I thought that would only blow if there was some malfunction in the camera and it started drawing too much power.

All things considered it's likely I could run a wire from the fusebox to the back of the cig compartment where it could follow the existing wiring, probably only another hour's work - but my question then would be what is the professional method of tapping power from the fuse box? The instructions to the dashcam showed wrapping naked wire around one of the legs of the fuse and jamming it back in! I don't think my dealer would be impressed ;)
 
> Oh that does sound like good advice for the forum, thanks Richard. Mine is a > facelift MY05 however, so does that mean I'm safe?
Yes, it has its own fuse in that fusebox rather than routing through the head unit.

> I'm no expert but I thought that would only blow if there was some ?
> malfunction in the camera and it started drawing too much power.
Precisely. If the camera malfunctions the thinnest bit of wire melts i.e catches fire. The thinnest bit of wire must be the fuse. Or another piece of wire melts and catches fire.

> All things considered it's likely I could run a wire from the fusebox to the back of the cig compartment where it could follow the existing wiring, probably
If yours was a MY04 or earlier car, i'd say do that (or given you have an inline fuse, you could use the power to the stereo which is nice and chunky).

> the dashcam showed wrapping naked wire around one of the legs of the fuse > and jamming it back in! I don't think my dealer would be impressed

That is a bad plan but very easy to do :)

There are spare locations in the fusebox and clip in fuseholders connect onto those. The fuse holders are different colours (and the fusebox has different colours dots in it) and the different holders won't go in the wrong location - I guess this helps during assembly of the car - but the fuse-holders are available. For things with very little current draw and an inline fuse, you could pick one if the fused outputs and strip a bit of the insulation - I would always solder and re-insulate, some use 'Scotchlocks'. I find solder and insulation (a) never comes undone and (b) is better for any significant load.

Again, as your device uses minimal current i'd leave it where it is. If your CDC fuse ever blows then you can think whether you need a separate wire to that fusebox. If running wires across to the fusebox ensure they are taped away from anything that moves (steering column, pedal mechanisms etc) in that area. I tend to use stick on felt to fix the to the inside of the lower dashboard under the steering column as its easy to access and quick and safe then.

Richard
 
Thanks Richard. It turns out my twin-core from the cig lighter is 10amp, but the fuse is 15, so I guess I'll have to either upgrade the wire or put put an inline fuse on it. Good to know a little more about the basics, I see choice of wire is important!
Cheers
Pev
 

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