190e no get up and go!!!

[jpskiller]

190e 2ltr has a strange issue that when you put your foot down (not kickdown) it will just keep going at same speed you where doing, if you pull back gently then will start going or if you accelerate gently then its ok, just wont react if put foot down quick, this can be a issue if need a little burst to get out of way of something.

What could be the problem and where should I look, apart from this everything else is ok.

P.S cars just passed MOT and emmisions where nice and low so not running lean or rich

 

[grober]

Sounds like a problem with your accelerator cable or linkage.

 

[Big_Jon]

MAF unit.

 

[jpskiller]

MAF unit.

where would that be on my car, and does it have one (call me stupid if it does)

car is 1989

 

[grober]

If its the 190 you don't have one!

 

[Adam230K]

Check your throttle cable.

 

[popuptoaster]

could just be that the 2 litre 190's are very slow, has it suddenly got worse or is the car new to you?

 

[Number_Cruncher]

>>just wont react if put foot down quick

I would check the high tension side of the ignition system. It's under load that the spark is most likely to break down.

 

[jpskiller]

>>just wont react if put foot down quick

I would check the high tension side of the ignition system. It's under load that the spark is most likely to break down.

sounds interesting, how would you do that then

 

[jpskiller]

also had some interesting ideas from the other side like

sticky air flow plate, cable again, fuel filter and worse case EHA valve or fuel distributor

either way theres a few good suggestions I can get checked out even a couple I can try myself (maybe)

 

[jpskiller]

could just be that the 2 litre 190's are very slow, has it suddenly got worse or is the car new to you?

dont think there slow, dont know how long it's been doing it, I dont use the car much, not sudden, but the car will be getting more use as soon as mr's jpskiller passes her test

 

[Dieselman]

I would check the high tension side of the ignition system. It's under load that the spark is most likely to break down.

A good point.

That should cause juddering as well due to the misfire it creates.

 

[popuptoaster]

dont think there slow, dont know how long it's been doing it, I dont use the car much, not sudden, but the car will be getting more use as soon as mr's jpskiller passes her test

they are pretty heavy for that poor ol 110bhp 2 litre to get shifting suddenly, but if its a fault thats occured since you've owned it then it cant be that, the acceleration is pretty dull on the smaller engined ones anyway though depending what you were used to driving before hand.

sudden thought, is the clutch slipping under hard throttle openings?

 

[bolide]

I would check the high tension side of the ignition system. It's under load that the spark is most likely to break down.

I'd go along with that

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Number_Cruncher]

First check costs nowt.

Lift the bonnet at night with the engine running, and look for sparks. Don't get too close, because although you can't see them in the dark, the fan and pulleys are still whirring!

Second check is to remove each HT lead one at a time, including the coil king lead and check its condition along its length looking for cracks and splits. Check the condition of the connectors at each end, and in the cap/coil, checking for the presence of corrosion. Then, check the resistance of each lead. You'll find the readings should be in the 10 - 20 K Ohm range. If you find a lead with a much higher resistance, or completely open circuit, then, it's definitely had it.

Take the distributor cap off, and look at the insulation material for black tracking lines. Make sure everything on the cap and rotor is spotless. Also, check the resistance between the centre contact of the rotor arm and the tip. Again, you want to make sure there's no open circuit. Last, but not least, check that the sprung carbon brush in the centre is there and free to slide in its bore.

Check for tracking marks on the nose of the coil.

Take the plugs out, and have a good look - if a cylinder has been missing, you might see a plug with a different coloured insulator.

 

[jpskiller]

Cheers for info looks like all my spare time is going to taken up, and if I cant sort it then it's off t' garage

 

[jpskiller]

A good point.

That should cause juddering as well due to the misfire it creates.

There is no juddering, just no power increase and I dont think there is a misfire

 

[Will]

Excellent advice there from Number_Cruncher etc.

I'd agree it sounds like an ignition issue, and by feathering the throttle to build up speed you're masking the problem.

Can you still buy those spark testers that measure how strong the HT voltage is (ie, what size gap it'll jump). That would also show if the spark is weak?

Will

 

[Number_Cruncher]

>>looks like all my spare time is going to taken up

If it takes you more than an hour or two......

You're doing it wrong!

 

[jpskiller]

Bit of a update

had good look around in dark, no sparking anywhere so I've fitted new Spark Plugs, Fuel Filter And accelertor cable and done Oil Change while I was at it, still no difference and adjusted the Idle (was low when warm)

Had the OVP Relay check, all working except little dirt on the copper contact, attempted to clean by using slither of cardbord to scrap it off, Note : Been having a problem with ABS Light comeing on at random times, anyway after refitting OVP with a new fuse and now the ABS Light is no always on..

Any Ideas, could it be faulty or the plug it pushes into, its a nightmare to get in, have to take battery out, and the ECU plus ECU Cradle just to get it back in, the plug is not fixed to anything...