190e w201 w124 Distributor removal help....

[zippy500]

Hi,
Want to replace the whole distributor, have released the top hex bolt,
Dizzy now twists slightly but will not come out.

Is there a pinch bolt on the side, I can not see one..

Any tips help please....:fail

Thanks

 

[Will]

What's wrong with your current distributor out of interest?

Once the hex bolt is removed it should come straight out.

 

[zippy500]

Went remove dizzy cap, both screws have sheared off,

Looking in ebay, had a result found a recontioned bosch dizzy with bosch cap and rotor arm.Won it for £40. just the bosch cap and rotor cost that on its own.

Some ebayers are selling just the body £70

Thought I might as well replace the whole unit as the car has done 165K probably worn slightly.

well DAM lost setting.

Any Tips to restting TDC on Cyl 1...


Replaceing injectors next

Is Cylinder 1 at radiator end.

HOw oh How do I get myself in these situations

 

[Will]

They don't really wear or cause much trouble so mileage is not an issue. But it's not unusual to find the mounting screws siezed - steel screws, alloy housing, heat cycles/age Easy to sort of course once the distributor is removed for access

I'm guessing you've already removed it then? I would have timed the engine to TDC and taken a picture, although I think there is a mark that lines up with the rotor arm/housing etc. If you have no joy, I'll see what pics I can find later on when I'm back

FWIW, I find that the pukka German BERU caps and rotor arms are best quality for M102 engines - you can buy the pair for around £20 from GSF

 

[zippy500]

I would appricate any pics you could post.

Actually it was GSF who sold the dizzy on ebay.

makes you laugh Haynes says to put your thumb over sparkplug hole to feel the pressure buld up. have they seen how far down the hole for the plug is!!!

 

[grober]

There should be timing marks on the front crank pulley for TDC. On a 4 cylinder engine pistons 1 and 4 rise together as do 2 and 3. For TDC on the compression stroke cylinder 1= at the front of the engine] both inlet and exhaust valves should be shut as the piston rises to the top= compression stroke ---- in the meantime 4 is also rising- how do you tell the difference--- well 4 will be on its exhaust stroke and the exhaust valve will be open. You can determine this by looking at the position of the camshaft- is it opening the exhaust valve on number 4 or no 1. You can also do this by removing the spark plug of no 1 and look for when the cylinder has compression using a compression gauge. Once you have determined this and got cylinder no 1 at TDC then take the distributor body making sure its roughly in the correct orientation and rotate the rotor arm till it lines up with a mark corresponding to cylinder no 1-- usually a slot cut on the top rim of the body and insert the distributor- it will rotate abit as the bottom gear engages- once fully inserted rotate the bodyslightly to line up the rotor arm with the slot again before clamping-- be careful its easy to get the whole thing 180 degrees out. Remember the distributor also rotates ONCE for every TWO times that the crankshaft rotates.

 

[zippy500]

Hi Guys,

I am really starting to struggle now

Having trouble with the TDC markings on the crank pully, I can not see them for the life of me!

I am working from the haynes manual, it show the crank pick up sensor, but I cant see it.

I have lined up the camshaft marking with the top of the cylinder as shown, in the pic

Can anyone help me , have looked from underneath....nothing..

can someone tell me looking straight at the crank pully at what position the marking is (12oclock?)

A pic will say a thousand words

Should I take the radiator out so I can see straight through..

ISt a 1.8 1993

HELP

 

[grober]

from the Haynes 190 manual- IGNITION SECTION
Top pic = distributor notch to line up rotor arm to no 1 cylinder

bottom pic= timing marks on crank vibration damper' behind crank pulley and timing case pointer These are often covered in oil and general crud you may have to clean up the area to see the marks clearly

you will see this best with a torch from above not below

 

[zippy500]

.....Phew did it:bannana:new distributor in

Thanks grober for the info on the cylinder poistions that really helped.

Just needed a powerful torch in the end to see the markings.

Was just about to take the rad out, but realise now that woulnt have made any diffrence.

Did notice that the altrnator/water pump belt had lots of small cracks in it..will add that to the list of jobs to do..

the engine starts and idles have not taken it out for a run yet..



Next weekend will attempt to replace the injectors..any tips there?

Thanks again everyone.. I'll be back next week with some problem I have hit