2.5-16 cosworth fuel presure regulator

[n1ckyp]

i am haveing problems with my cozy, i recently changed the fuel presure regulator because it had a internal fuel leak from it, and the car used to not idle after it became warm, the leak stoped but still not idleing, any ideas????

 

[grober]

I assume you mean you renewed the black plastic electro-hydraulic pressure actuator that bolts on to the side of the fuel distributor body. You may have a problem with fast idle bypass circuit/unit or a leak in its associated pipework. Êàòàëîã

 

[tintinmt]

Have you checked / cleaned the idle control valve? I think issues with it are common. I had this on my 2.3.

 

[alexander patie]

can we be clear, not idling = stalling? or racing?

it is worth checking the continuity of throttle body microswitch, the throttle linkage microswitch and the idle circuit rubber hoses for leaks. as has been said the idle valve could be sticking with carbon build up, but i doubt it. also you need to check the co at idle if it is pre cat, or the lambda values if cat. ooh, and the coolant temp sensor values, around 250 ohms when hot, but anything under about 400 should be ok.

 

[stwat]

As well as all of the above, check the position of the AFM plate. Check that it's not catching at all on the sides of the AFM and that it has free movment and also that it's not sitting to high or to low at rest.

Heres a good few pages from a manual showing how to set the basic position of AFM plate.

 

[stwat]

can we be clear, not idling = stalling? or racing?

it is worth checking the continuity of throttle body microswitch, the throttle linkage microswitch and the idle circuit rubber hoses for leaks. as has been said the idle valve could be sticking with carbon build up, but i doubt it. also you need to check the co at idle if it is pre cat, or the lambda values if cat. ooh, and the coolant temp sensor values, around 250 ohms when hot, but anything under about 400 should be ok.

I just tested my temp sensor and it reads 400 from cold but goes down to around 198 when fully up to temp. Could this cause problems?

I have been struggling to get my 2.3-16 running well for a while now. I just replaced the air Slide Valve and that has sorted out the cold start and idling problem. The car now starts on the button from cold but after about 2 mins of driving it starts to hunt from 250 to 2000 rpm until its fully warm.

I just wondered if it could be the temp sensor giving out dodgy readings?

Sorry for the thread jack, n1ckyp. But all info with these cars is helpful to us struggling with the horrible Bosch KE Jet.

 

[grober]

400 ohms cold seems a little low to me?
should be about

2.3-2.8 Kohms COLD

290-370 ohms HOT

Figures for M103 engine

Wonder if the heater element on your lambda sensor has gone? would work OK once its warmed up by the exhaust gases

 

[stwat]

Thanks for the reply

My engine is an M102 034 16v. But i supose the figures from the switch would be the same as the M103?

My car doesnt have a cat, so no lambda sensor either.

I wonder if someone has got the connections to the sensor the wrong way round? Is that possible? Or maybe i'm testing from the wrong post on the sensor?

Oh god i hate car electrics!! LOL

 

[grober]

This is an interesting thread! Tuning with CIS - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
The sensors could be completely different I really don't know.