2 DIY kitchen renovation queries.

Discussion in 'OT (OFF Topic) Forums' started by John, Nov 23, 2013.

  1. John

    John Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    So it's time to replace the kitchen as various appliances have or are dying.

    I am removing the old kitchen and I have come up against two issues which I'm wondering if the panel can advise...

    House is 2002 and the kitchen I am removing is the original.

    So firstly, I have discovered in the corner, a fairly sizeable hole which there is a slight breeze from so I guess it plunges into the foundations (I can see breeze blocks below the hole). This has been there all the time but is no more visible since removing two wooden batons from within which two pipes will be going. Should this be left alone for reasons of air flow / drying or would it be best filled with expanding foam or similar?

    Secondly, I am removing ceramic floor tiles and these are easy. However, the tile cement (I presume it is) underneath is a tough one to remove and with a bolster chisel and sizeable hammer, it took literally 5 to 10 minutes to remove basically a quarter of a tile size, and the floor is still slightly uneven in places even then.

    So my options are: carry on and regret it later, hire something which will do it mechanically, but what? or a screed over the top, but this will mean hall into kitchen is slightly raised, albeit no the end of the world but annoying.

    I've attached two pictures showing each situation.

    I thank you.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2016
  2. joecash

    joecash Active Member

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    you need to get an answer from a structural engineer or a reputable builder. - verbal advice shouldn't cost that much
     
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  3. iaingreer

    iaingreer Active Member

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    I've just spent the day today replacing my kitchen floor. It will give you a smoother surface to tile on and it wasn't terribly expensive!
     
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  4. davidjpowell

    davidjpowell MB Enthusiast

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    An SDS drill on hire with a suitable chisel bit will deal with that.

    If it's a concrete floor no need for ventilation - get rid of the hole.
     
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  5. renault12ts

    renault12ts MB Club Veteran

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    Fill the hole with expanding foam...and do the floor with self leveling compound.
     
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  6. developer

    developer MB Enthusiast

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    There's no ventilation required for solid floors, unless it's a duct through the solid floor to an inner wooden floor.

    Is there a drain in the vicinity on the outside? - just check it out for soundness.

    If not, I'd fill the cavity and move on, being mindful of damp course levels.

    On the floor I'd want to maintain the original level, so I'd get a labourer (son/neighbour's son) with a small power chisel (the Dewalt/Bosch SDS hammer drill type) and pay him for 1/2 a day to remove it. We did it recently and retiled accordingly.
     
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  7. OP
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    John

    John Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    It's suspended concrete though - is that what yours is?
     
  8. OP
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    John

    John Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    There's no wooden floors anywhere. The hole is in the corner of two walls , of which neither are exterior.

    I'm thinking expanding foam in there but just down to the bottom of the concrete suspended floor which you can sort of see right in the forefront of the picture. I think the hole is just "ah that'll be alright" rather than a deliberate creation.
     
  9. Harrythedog

    Harrythedog MB Enthusiast

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    As others have said use an SDS drill with a chisel attachment then ply the floor before retiling
     
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  10. Dieselman

    Dieselman Banned

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    That hole shouldn't be there, it's where the bricky has chopped a block down with a chisel, not a saw.
     
  11. Danny DeVito

    Danny DeVito Active Member

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    A HOLE ??!!! Is this where on those shows where they say " it's all going fine but HOLY CRAP the wall is falling in and it will costs thousands to underpin "?

    I would................Fill it with foam not too much mind it expands. a LOT !

    Part 2.... Did you ever see on Grand Designs a couple bought an old waterworks and the gy spent days or weeks chiseling the interior with an electric chipping hammer in the winter in an old factory. Well think of him when you just have a small kitchen to sort out.

    I would ......... Rent or buy an electric chisel (probably argos cause you can get warranty if you over work it) And then self leveling compound to smooth it over. I never used the compound myself but a good workmate used it and tells me it worked fantastic in his hall.
     
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  12. OP
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    John

    John Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    It just looks to me like they put wooden batons up to cover with plasterboard and couldn't get to that bit anymore and left it.

    I made the mistake with expanding foam once in my first flat. It was new (built the same time as my current house strangely) but the smell of cigarette smoke was coming from somewhere below.

    Having seen the block being built, I knew the only 'hole' in the ground was for the waste water pipe and so after a drunken investigation which meant climbing into a kitchen cabinet and accessing the waste pipe, I could see there was a gap in the concrete. I sprayed enough to fill all around it and the hole in terms of volume. However, when I looked in the morning, it looked like an alien had spawned something overnight. It did the job though and never smelt again.

    I think my current 17 year old Bosch hammer drill (non SDS) is probably not up to this. I'm not sure if you can buy chisel attachments for it anyway. So I've taken a punt on a £80 1500w SDS drill with chisel and I can have a stab at it tomorrow...

    If that doesn't work, I'm thinking of hiring something more substantial from my local HSS which doesn't open until Monday!

    Cheers all.
     
  13. zenman63

    zenman63 MB Enthusiast

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    it made me smile, Ply the floor! that is Very bad advice.
    it looks like a full bed trowel has been used and not done as it should, full bed is just that, no voids not large trowel marks.
    Anyway it must be very uneven in the first place so remove with a power scraper, sds is just the name of the tool holder type and nothing more.
    it needs a wide blade in a chiselling type tool.
    Then go from there, latex is good if you know how to use it, if not leave well alone.
    You welcome to call me tomorrow, pm me.
     
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  14. Danny DeVito

    Danny DeVito Active Member

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    Ok so you will have to expand on the latex bit
     
  15. Dieselman

    Dieselman Banned

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    I generally try to expand in latex.
     
  16. Merc Owner 2B

    Merc Owner 2B MB Enthusiast

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  17. Piff

    Piff MB Enthusiast

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  18. Darrell

    Darrell MB Enthusiast

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    Where are you?

    I am in Sussex at the moment and in Surrey from Monday until Wednesday.

    I can take a look.
     
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  19. OP
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    John

    John Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Thanks all - including offers - I think I will be OK.

    I looked at that first MO2B - but I could buy my own for less and it means I can do it in the evenings whereas I'd have to hire the unit for a week otherwise - and I will still have the drill for other tasks which my 17 year old Bosch hammer drill is not up to! I'll try the warm water tip cheers.

    That angled chisel looks just the ticket - and the drill is similar to the one I've gone for (except heavier - mine is 3.5kg).

    Funnily enough my electrician said they would probably use a latex foundation to make the floor smooth before laying the Amtico. Sounds like it fills in the residue left behind because some of the adhesive is welded to the concrete floor albeit not too bad, the surface is not smooth. I have a chap doing this after the kitchen is fitted.

    I tried a 3kg 850w SDS Makita drill with chisel today (the electrician's one) and it goes through it like butter so I am happy to work through it all - it's not a massive area and I'm trying to keep the budget down. It seems the drill I bought it over-specified!
     
  20. developer

    developer MB Enthusiast

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    There's no such thing as a tool that's too big ;).
     
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