Hey guys, Hope your well and keeping busy.
There has been many threads/post lately about paint correction using a DA and what compounds to use so I thought I'd share my efforts with you all so that it may help you all in the future.
I'm not a pro detailer, just an enthusiast like many of you on here.
This Is My Wife's GLE , the paint is full of Marring and swirls from a previous owner so before any coating is applied it makes sense to do a full paint prep before as this will help the coating / wax/ sealant etc last longer and give you far better overall results in finish and longevity.
Day 1
So first up, A good through rinse to remove any loose dust as this will come off without the need for chemical
2nd Follow up with your chosen prewash. My go too is Bh Autofaom diluted at 2% PIR as they is not road film. ( 200ml to 800ml water), Cover the entire car and leave to dwell for a good 5 mins, while waiting I fill my buckets with shampoo.. BH Auto Wash, 10ml per large detailing bucket. and the same for the wheels,
Rinse off the product till the water runs clear, then follow up with your chosen wash method. Mine is the 1 bucket multi Mitt. I find this far better than the 2Bm as your not rinsing a mitt in what will become dirty water. I use 1 mitt per panel and then put it to one side. so every panel has a clean mitt. Rinse Down the panels, then use a fallout remover to remove any rust particles, I use BH Korrosol followed by a rinse, then Tar remover with a small pad on the tar spots, fully rinse down again and dry with your chosen drying towels. I use 1 waffle weave towel for the glass, I then use 4 drying towels, Klin are my preference, 1 for each side, front and rear. Lightly mist the towel with water before placing it on the paint as adding water to the towel will help it absorb water at a better rate and add lubricity to the process.
Now the bodywork is clean and dry I can work on my wheels without worrying about water marks on the paint/glass etc. you can opt to do your wheels first but by doing that you end up with dirty water, foam and chemical on them when doing the bodywork that will have to rinsed again. so I find it more effective this way. the same process as the paint. 1 bucket with solution and brushes then rinse each brush/mitt etc with the hose before putting it back in your clean bucket.
Now that all the cleaning is done it time to start correction.
Day2
First up for me is the Bonnet, this is the hardest part of the car to do as its so big and full of contours to the point that there is not a flat part at all.
Koch Chemie H8 with a Wool pad and a DAS 6 DA. Place 4 small dots of product onto the pad then work at low speed over a 18/24" area until spread out evenly, increase the speed to 5 and work in a crosshatch pattern. I usually go with 4/6 passes in total depending on how much correction is needed. Don't move too fast with the polisher as it won't allow the compound to work. a steady arm speed with just enough pressure to hold the polisher flat on the panel.. too much pressure and the DA will stall and not work at all
Now finished that section, gently buff away the compound with a soft M/F cloth. I use the edgeless 365 70/30 blend cloths, folded into 4. then mist some IPA. panel wipe
over the panel and remove with clean cloth to ensure all residue is removed.
Repeat this process until the whole panel is complete and happy with the finish, Then follow up with Koch Chemie M2 and a soft polishing pad in the same process as before until happy with the results.
Finally wipe down again with IPA/ panel prep with a clean side of the towel. It helps if you use a clean side of the towel every time you remove the product so your not just pushing product around the panel. I use 2 towels in total for the bonnet folded into 4.
Day3
Now the bonnet and front bumper is complete, its time for the passenger side. I follow the exact same steps as the I did on the front of the car but also used 70mm pads for the small sections around the roof, top of the doors and window edges.
That's about it so far guys, I will add some more details and pics as I progress through the week, I should have it completed by Friday, and then onto the coating itself,
thanks for reading, sorry if I've missed any finer details, in the write up so far, If I have please feel free to ask.





There has been many threads/post lately about paint correction using a DA and what compounds to use so I thought I'd share my efforts with you all so that it may help you all in the future.
I'm not a pro detailer, just an enthusiast like many of you on here.
This Is My Wife's GLE , the paint is full of Marring and swirls from a previous owner so before any coating is applied it makes sense to do a full paint prep before as this will help the coating / wax/ sealant etc last longer and give you far better overall results in finish and longevity.
Day 1
So first up, A good through rinse to remove any loose dust as this will come off without the need for chemical
2nd Follow up with your chosen prewash. My go too is Bh Autofaom diluted at 2% PIR as they is not road film. ( 200ml to 800ml water), Cover the entire car and leave to dwell for a good 5 mins, while waiting I fill my buckets with shampoo.. BH Auto Wash, 10ml per large detailing bucket. and the same for the wheels,
Rinse off the product till the water runs clear, then follow up with your chosen wash method. Mine is the 1 bucket multi Mitt. I find this far better than the 2Bm as your not rinsing a mitt in what will become dirty water. I use 1 mitt per panel and then put it to one side. so every panel has a clean mitt. Rinse Down the panels, then use a fallout remover to remove any rust particles, I use BH Korrosol followed by a rinse, then Tar remover with a small pad on the tar spots, fully rinse down again and dry with your chosen drying towels. I use 1 waffle weave towel for the glass, I then use 4 drying towels, Klin are my preference, 1 for each side, front and rear. Lightly mist the towel with water before placing it on the paint as adding water to the towel will help it absorb water at a better rate and add lubricity to the process.
Now the bodywork is clean and dry I can work on my wheels without worrying about water marks on the paint/glass etc. you can opt to do your wheels first but by doing that you end up with dirty water, foam and chemical on them when doing the bodywork that will have to rinsed again. so I find it more effective this way. the same process as the paint. 1 bucket with solution and brushes then rinse each brush/mitt etc with the hose before putting it back in your clean bucket.
Now that all the cleaning is done it time to start correction.
Day2
First up for me is the Bonnet, this is the hardest part of the car to do as its so big and full of contours to the point that there is not a flat part at all.
Koch Chemie H8 with a Wool pad and a DAS 6 DA. Place 4 small dots of product onto the pad then work at low speed over a 18/24" area until spread out evenly, increase the speed to 5 and work in a crosshatch pattern. I usually go with 4/6 passes in total depending on how much correction is needed. Don't move too fast with the polisher as it won't allow the compound to work. a steady arm speed with just enough pressure to hold the polisher flat on the panel.. too much pressure and the DA will stall and not work at all
Now finished that section, gently buff away the compound with a soft M/F cloth. I use the edgeless 365 70/30 blend cloths, folded into 4. then mist some IPA. panel wipe
over the panel and remove with clean cloth to ensure all residue is removed.
Repeat this process until the whole panel is complete and happy with the finish, Then follow up with Koch Chemie M2 and a soft polishing pad in the same process as before until happy with the results.
Finally wipe down again with IPA/ panel prep with a clean side of the towel. It helps if you use a clean side of the towel every time you remove the product so your not just pushing product around the panel. I use 2 towels in total for the bonnet folded into 4.
Day3
Now the bonnet and front bumper is complete, its time for the passenger side. I follow the exact same steps as the I did on the front of the car but also used 70mm pads for the small sections around the roof, top of the doors and window edges.
That's about it so far guys, I will add some more details and pics as I progress through the week, I should have it completed by Friday, and then onto the coating itself,
thanks for reading, sorry if I've missed any finer details, in the write up so far, If I have please feel free to ask.




