2006 C220 CdI Auto stuck in gear and non start.

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Kerabo

Active Member
Joined
May 20, 2018
Messages
396
Location
Spalding Lincs
Car
2006 C220 Estate
Could someone clarify what’s happening here Please.

Driving along and came to a junction, when accelerating away the car is stuck in a very low gear. It said D but more like 1st.

When I got to a quiet part of the road I stopped it but the gears were locked and I was not able to restart It.

So phoned the recovery but they would be nearly 3 hrs. All of a sudden I could start it and for 30 seconds the gears were free but then locked in 1st again. I drove it home in 1st only 2 miles.
I understand there is a switch under the lever somewhere as my mate had the same issue on his E Class a few months ago.
if someone could verify my thinking and guide me to finding this switch please.

Can I purchase and fit this part as my mates was sent away for repair with a bill of almost £200.

Thanks Ken
 
Is the gear change lever assy Coded and programmed to the vehicle?
So if I buy used it won’t work unless coded?

Thanks
 
I can only speak for the CLK, but as there have been no advice from others, and the C class and CLK are very similar, here goes...

There may be an emergency gear selector release lever. Lift the centre armrest to get into the storage box. Remove the plastic pan at the front (i.e. immediately behind the gear selector). reach in to the gap and find the small hole at the front. Insert a biro or similar and depress the lever. This releases the gear selector interlock. The gear lever should now be free to move. This procedure should be described in the user manual somewhere.

The parts catalogue (EPC) shows the electronic gear selector mechanism as being 'anti-theft coded'. It isn't. Any item with the same part number will work fine.

Before you dash out & buy a replacement, I'd get the fault codes read first - might not be the ESL.

Ian.
 
I can only speak for the CLK, but as there have been no advice from others, and the C class and CLK are very similar, here goes...

There may be an emergency gear selector release lever. Lift the centre armrest to get into the storage box. Remove the plastic pan at the front (i.e. immediately behind the gear selector). reach in to the gap and find the small hole at the front. Insert a biro or similar and depress the lever. This releases the gear selector interlock. The gear lever should now be free to move. This procedure should be described in the user manual somewhere.

The parts catalogue (EPC) shows the electronic gear selector mechanism as being 'anti-theft coded'. It isn't. Any item with the same part number will work fine.

Before you dash out & buy a replacement, I'd get the fault codes read first - might not be the ESL.

Ian.
Thank you Ian

yes I found the small button that releases the lever but although free the Starter will not work as it thinks it’s in gear And the gear indicator light it blank.
I got a code when tested saying P0705 Transmission range sensor. It appears to be common on this version of Mercedes. After a fight I have removed the lever box with its sensor and found a company to repair it. Won’t be cheap but have to try.
thank you
Ken
 
Kerabo , your car is fitted with a version of a 722.6 transmission , there are practically millions of them out there fitted in all sorts of cars trucks and buses. There are tons of practical information on them online.

How many miles on this car and when was the transmission last serviced ?
 
Kerabo , your car is fitted with a version of a 722.6 transmission , there are practically millions of them out there fitted in all sorts of cars trucks and buses. There are tons of practical information on them online.

How many miles on this car and when was the transmission last serviced ?
I changed the transmission oil and a new strainer about 25000 miles ago At 150000 miles.
I am hoping I have it correct with electrical as my Mates E Class had the same fault and code a few months ago Snd it was this sensor inside of the change lever box.
One strange thing is when you look online there is a fault where transmission oil finds its way into the ECU.
My gear change part is on route to an ECU test company.

thanks Ken
 
And the gear indicator light it blank.
I got a code when tested saying P0705 Transmission range sensor

This sounds like the problem I had - hence my familiarity with the module. In my case, it was a fault/misalignment of the optical module that detects the forward/backward movement of the gear shift lever. I had both of the symptoms that you mention.
Is your code reader able to tell you the gear lever position? I can't remember which system it's listed under - I'll check later today. If so, you can try to re-align the optical module yourself if you're handy with tools and a soldering iron, and have a couple of hours spare.
I *think* that I had dry solder joint in this module. I took it apart, carefully re-soldered all the joints I could reach, then replaced it and re-aligned it. The mounting screws are fitted in slots that permit a small amount of adjustment between the physical position of the gear lever and the position read by the optical sensors. By making small adjustments and comparing the physical position of the lever with the value read through the OBD reader, you can re-position the module correctly.
Touch wood, I've had no more problems with it since.
IIRC, prior to the fix, just clearing the fault using the OBD reader restored normal operation for a short period - typically only a couple of miles. The left/right '+'/'-' operation of the gear shift mechanism was the first thing to fail.

Ian.
 
This sounds like the problem I had - hence my familiarity with the module. In my case, it was a fault/misalignment of the optical module that detects the forward/backward movement of the gear shift lever. I had both of the symptoms that you mention.
Is your code reader able to tell you the gear lever position? I can't remember which system it's listed under - I'll check later today. If so, you can try to re-align the optical module yourself if you're handy with tools and a soldering iron, and have a couple of hours spare.
I *think* that I had dry solder joint in this module. I took it apart, carefully re-soldered all the joints I could reach, then replaced it and re-aligned it. The mounting screws are fitted in slots that permit a small amount of adjustment between the physical position of the gear lever and the position read by the optical sensors. By making small adjustments and comparing the physical position of the lever with the value read through the OBD reader, you can re-position the module correctly.
Touch wood, I've had no more problems with it since.
IIRC, prior to the fix, just clearing the fault using the OBD reader restored normal operation for a short period - typically only a couple of miles. The left/right '+'/'-' operation of the gear shift mechanism was the first thing to fail.

Ian.
Thanks for the reply.
so strange I was touching nothing and leaving a junction and it never changed up. Stopping was a bad move as it would not restart thinking it was in gear. Removing the key and trying again helped.
I have the iCar soft reader but it would not find a fault so tried my old Sealey one and it found it.
I can’t do anything to it now as the postman is about to collect the package any moment.
there is a local Mercedes specialist who done my mates with the same fault but could not get an answer so will do it myself.
There is a company that does 2 day turnaround on ECU repairs and this fault is one of their most common.
I will update if it works
its done 194000 so can’t complain.

thank you
 
I changed the transmission oil and a new strainer about 25000 miles ago At 150000 miles.
I am hoping I have it correct with electrical as my Mates E Class had the same fault and code a few months ago Snd it was this sensor inside of the change lever box.
One strange thing is when you look online there is a fault where transmission oil finds its way into the ECU.
My gear change part is on route to an ECU test company.

thanks Ken
Checking for ATF getting into the TCU is easy , no need to lift the car , it's in the passenger footwell , 30 minute job using no special tools. ATF in the TCU happens when the TCU plug o ring fails on the gearbox. It is a cheap part to replace , internet is full of it. NOTE some expect to see/smell ATF on the wires upon inspection , but it is my understanding that the fluid can actually wick up the separate conductors inside the actual wire insulation.

footwell.jpg

cover plate.jpg

all open.jpg

dry tcu.jpg
 
My gear lever unit is now with the ECU test repair people so I will see what they find.

Just out of interest I notice the gear lever box in on elongated holes, I assume for adjustment.
what would be the correct method if setting that up?
Thank you.
 
While you are waiting for your lever to be returned why not have a quick look at the TCU as per my post ? I know you have no symptoms of oil wick (yet) , but it might be a good time to have a good 'sniff' for ATF in and around the TCU.

Nothing to lose.
 
While you are waiting for your lever to be returned why not have a quick look at the TCU as per my post ? I know you have no symptoms of oil wick (yet) , but it might be a good time to have a good 'sniff' for ATF in and around the TCU.

Nothing to lose.
Yes not a bad idea.
 
Just pull the carpet down , pop the soundproofing block off , remove 4x plastic nuts with a 10 mm socket , drop the metal plate holding the TCU , undo the one 8mm bolt holding it in and Robert is your mothers brother.

Simples.
 
Just out of interest I notice the gear lever box in on elongated holes, I assume for adjustment.
what would be the correct method if setting that up?
Not something that occurred to me when replacing mine.
I assume that yours is like mine, and has a mechanical connection between the shift lever and the big gearbox operating lever underneath the car - the two bits connected with a clevis pin that needs a contortionist to re-connect. In which case, this link means that the shift mechanism just sort of naturally sits "in the right spot" when putting it back together.
If the position of the shift lever matches the display in the dash and the gearbox has selected the matching gear, then I wouldn't give it another thought.

BTW: when re-assembling, make sure that the clevis pin connecting the two levers has been securely located - the locking tab has clicked into the groove on the pin securely. I didn't, the tab dropped off and I did the test drive with the pin loose and ready to drop off the car. Luckily I found the tab in the road. Lesson learned.
Ian.
 
Not something that occurred to me when replacing mine.
I assume that yours is like mine, and has a mechanical connection between the shift lever and the big gearbox operating lever underneath the car - the two bits connected with a clevis pin that needs a contortionist to re-connect. In which case, this link means that the shift mechanism just sort of naturally sits "in the right spot" when putting it back together.
If the position of the shift lever matches the display in the dash and the gearbox has selected the matching gear, then I wouldn't give it another thought.

BTW: when re-assembling, make sure that the clevis pin connecting the two levers has been securely located - the locking tab has clicked into the groove on the pin securely. I didn't, the tab dropped off and I did the test drive with the pin loose and ready to drop off the car. Luckily I found the tab in the road. Lesson learned.
Ian.
Thanks for that.
I had been thinking of putting it in May N and letting it centralise or looking for the marks where the bolt heads had been.
thanks Ken
 
Just pull the carpet down , pop the soundproofing block off , remove 4x plastic nuts with a 10 mm socket , drop the metal plate holding the TCU , undo the one 8mm bolt holding it in and Robert is your mothers brother.

Simples.
I have yet to check this but wondered, would oil affect an ECU. Or how would it.
I have seen some electrical items that are in oil to keep cool.
not disagreeing but wondering how it affects things. I guess some brake cleaner would clean it up.

Thanks Ken
 
The oil does not belong there , it causes 'short circuits' and messes with the function of the TCU , yes the whole conductor plate and all of its electrical solenoids inside the gearbox are submerged in Automatic transmission fluid running at 80 - 90'C .

The difference is that they are designed to work that way . Not so the TCU ...otherwise they would not have put it in the passenger compartment. It is unlikely to be your problem in this case but I have shown you how easy it is to check in post #9 . Up to you .
 
The oil does not belong there , it causes 'short circuits' and messes with the function of the TCU , yes the whole conductor plate and all of its electrical solenoids inside the gearbox are submerged in Automatic transmission fluid running at 80 - 90'C .

The difference is that they are designed to work that way . Not so the TCU ...otherwise they would not have put it in the passenger compartment. It is unlikely to be your problem in this case but I have shown you how easy it is to check in post #9 . Up to you .
Thanks
will update
 
I managed to check the ECU. I assume it’s this the one? Google said so.
all terminals and connectors dry.
There are strange stains on the back insulation that at first I thought was oil but must have always been there.
now just waiting the repair of my gear change
thanks Ken
 

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Well it’s fixed.
I can recommend a company called ECU Testing. Quality work and info. Expensive repair though.
if not for Royal Mails terrible service it would have been done 5 days ago.
being clever I thought I would refit the clip on the change rod pivot from underneath. Not a good idea on my back in my drive.
just the trip to refit but it works.
Thanks all for the help and info.
 

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