2007 C180 Kompressor - Fog light confusion?

Discussion in 'Electronics' started by Tupapison, Apr 30, 2015.

  1. Tupapison

    Tupapison New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2015
    Car:
    W203 2007 C180k
    Hello all!

    I just got my car and decided to change the Fog lights from the standard yellow ones, to LED fog lights.

    My car comes equipped with Bi-xenon headlights and cornering fog lamp; according to the manual, cars that come with this feature with the fog lights, use H7 instead of HB4 9006.


    [​IMG]


    H7 55W.

    I went ahead and looked under the hood and removed the bulbs, both of them said H7 on them, and the housing is like an HB4 housing, but i was looking at it and it said H7(even thou an H7 canbus resistor cables will not fit it, since the plugs that my car uses are HB4).


    [​IMG]


    This is the housing of the fog light from my car, I had removed the H7 oem bulb, and installed the H7 LED without a problem

    Today, after finally getting the HB4 canbus resistors(since they sent me H7 since it uses H7 bulb, but the H7 canbus resistors plugs are really HB4 in my car).

    I installed the passenger LED fog light first without any problem, i turned on my car to turn the wheels the other way so i could install the driver side one, again, H7 bulb, H7 housing, using a HB4 resistor cable. After some issues, i got them installed and they looked beautiful( i installed the resistors to a metal surface)


    [​IMG]




    Here they are installed. H7 fog lights


    Here comes the problem. When i was going to back up my car i put the key into the ignition, all the lights, electronics, DVD radio, ALL lights(i even turned them off just in case it was that). The car will not crank over, i will hear a very very low "kind of " ignition sound coming from the A/C area, but the car will not crank over at all. I asked a neighbour if they could jump start the car, but even then, no cranking over at all.

    I had a car battery company come over to change it because i thought it was the battery, but the person even used his jumper cable machine and nothing happened. He said that it must be a blown fuse or something.

    I have searched the forums and spent days and days tryiing to find the answer, but i never seem to find a conclusive one.

    Right now, my car will not start. I can open it remotely, insert the key and it will unlock the steering wheel, and all the lights in the dashboard come on as normal.

    The only gauge that i see that is not moving at ALL is the oil engine level, it remains static at 0%. I tried checking the Fuses 57 and 52 to see if maybe they were the culprits, but they were to mu surprise(already 20 amps) and they were not burned out.

    I am desperate, What could have happened? Should i have not installed a H7 bulb into the H7 housing even thou it says my car uses that bulb because of the assisted cornering. Why doesnt the car start?

    Thank you so much for your help in advanced
     
  2. t-dawg1

    t-dawg1 Hardcore MB Enthusiast

    Messages:
    561
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2013
    Location:
    Paisley
    Car:
    Mercedes W211
    I'd try putting everything back to how it ORIGINALLY was and try starting the car then. Merc electronics can be very very sensitive
     
  3. markjay

    markjay MB Club Veteran

    Messages:
    18,118
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
    Location:
    London
    Car:
    W204 C180 Executive SE 2013 Automatic / COMAND NTG4.7 and Morel speakers fitted by www.comand.co.uk
    As above, try disconnecting the fog lamps and see if the car starts.

    But I don't think it's to do with the H7 / HB4 issue.

    Either the resistor pack they sent you was faulty and caused damage further up the chain, or you have unintentionally caused a short-circuit somewhere while working on the car, or the starting fault may be unrelated, e.g. the autobox inhibitor switch which prevents the car from starting when not in P.

    If you are saying the starter won't crank over, you could try feeding the solenoid with live positive current straight from the battery.

    If you do this, then (a) use a reasonably thick wire even though it is only the solenoid and not the main feed, (b) take care not to cause a spark, (c) keep clear of the serpentine belt or any other moving parts, and (d) make sure the car is in P for auto or neutral for manual and the parking brake fully applied, or better still have a helper sit in the car.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2015
  4. tec

    tec Hardcore MB Enthusiast

    Messages:
    600
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2015
    Location:
    South Midlands UK
    Car:
    CLK320 CDi SPORT V6
    LED bulbs can cause all sorts of problems with the cars electrics, so I agree with the above and put everything back as it was.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    Tupapison

    Tupapison New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2015
    Car:
    W203 2007 C180k
    Already tried all of the above, putting everything back to how it was, and no luc :S
     
  6. markjay

    markjay MB Club Veteran

    Messages:
    18,118
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
    Location:
    London
    Car:
    W204 C180 Executive SE 2013 Automatic / COMAND NTG4.7 and Morel speakers fitted by www.comand.co.uk
    If you fed the solenoid directly from the battery and the engine won't crank, then you have an issue with the starter motor or solenoid.

    Feeding the solenoid directly bypasses engine electronics. The engine might not actually run, but if the starter motor is not faulty then it should certainly crank over.
     
  7. OP
    OP
    Tupapison

    Tupapison New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2015
    Car:
    W203 2007 C180k
    I will be checking today, Ill keep you guys updated!
     

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