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2010 C220 OM651 Inexplicable coolant problems

220estate

New Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2024
Messages
9
Location
Madrid
Car
C220 cdi Blue Efficiency Estate 2010
Hi everyone,

Am hoping someone can shed some light on an apparently intractable problem. I picked up a relatively high-mileage (300.000km) 2010 C220 Estate half a year ago, paying a bit below market value in the knowledge that it needed some attention (the classic oil leak on the oil filter housing, as well as a noisy timing chain - both of which I replaced successfully).

Unfortunately the car has been plagued with endless visible and invisible coolant leaks, which seem to pop up in new areas as soon as one problem has been fixed. By now, I have fixed VISIBLE leaks by replacing the coolant return line to the overflow reservoir (cracked plastic fitting), the reservoir itself (pinhole leak under the triangular sticker on top), the O-rings that seal the 3 thick pipes running from the radiator to the engine after they all seeped coolant one after the other, the radiator itself (pinhole crack found where the top pipe connects), the seal inside the EGR bypass valve (some corrosion visible), the diesel filter holder (turned out it was not actually leaking but the plastic was very brittle and clearly on its way out), the thinner coolant pipe that runs from the side of the engine block up to the diesel filter housing (the pipe split catastrophically), another U-shaped pipe between the diesel filter housing and the EGR cooler (split), and finally the plastic connecting piece on the rear firewall which leads to the heating system (the piece was totally brittle and split in two).

All this has happened over the last 6 months. The car drives fine but after 50 or 100 or 200km the coolant level starts dropping again and I find myself searching for yet another leak. The only other possible culprit I have not yet replaced is the water pump, but I have checked it very carefully a number of times and there is no sign of a leak.

Yesterday I noticed the level dropping again and I am really at my wits' end. I have happily owned 9 or 10 Mercedes over the last 25 years and have never experienced anything like this. Half the engine seems to be made of extremely brittle plastic parts that crack and break when you as much as look at them. Is this normal? Could this particular car have severely overheated at some stage making everything extremely brittle?

Just to add: I have also (twice) replaced the coolant reservoir cap, thinking that possibly it was not letting excess pressure escape and therefore causing various pipes to fail by over-pressurising the coolant system - no noticeable change. And finally, when I first got the car last winter, on wet weather cold starts there was a fair amount of white condensation from the exhaust on startup - not dramatic but more than I have seen on other cars. I eventually concluded this to be from the EGR bypass sucking water into the intake and it seemed to resolve itself after replacing that particular seal, but that may have also been due to warmer temperatures. At one stage I started wondering about a possible head gasket problem, but there is no oil in the water or vice versa, and the engine has run perfectly for the 7000km I have managed to do in between repair missions on both short and long trips. So, again ... not sure what to think but it doesn´t seem likely.

Thanks if you have managed to read all the way to the end. Any advice or suggestions would be most welcome!

Regards -
Peter
 
It’s highly possible that the car has been overheated at some point.

Could have easily blown the head gasket, water would leak in to combustion chamber so no oil or water mix would occur

What would occur is an over pressurised water system subsequently causing weak areas of the coolant system to fail.

It would show up by using a combustion gas tester in the expansion tank (it’s a fluid that changes colour when gases are present)

I’d be certainly checking that first??
 
A litmus test of the cooling system, definitely

The water pump back housing is plastic on the early cars and can split and be hard to see

The condensation from the exhaust could be the egr cooler core itself leaking. Just a few thoughts ;)
 
Hi Dodipops and Jobsworth

Thanks very much for your suggestions.

The head gasket was one of my early hypotheses, but from reading around forums I got the sense this was not a common a problem on diesels ... however it would explain the constant niggling problems coming up one by one due to the system being over-pressurised. I'll take your advice and get one of those testers. Would be good to know once and for all.

Either way I might just buy a complete set of water hoses (the ones I have not replaced yet) and change the lot. The ones on the car all seem to be orginal MB parts so might still be original from new, and many of them bulge out a bit, which leads me to think they're probably quite worn and weakened.

The water pump is another possible culprit, but I have looked at it very closely a number of times and can´t see any signs of a leak (yet). So far it's just been one little rubber hose or seal after another. I have meanwhile found the latest culprit: the little curved rubber hose between the EGR bypass and cooler. Again, a small split leading to a fast drip which was not immediately apparent.

Re the cooler: when I had the EGR system off a few weeks ago I checked everything carefully. Cooler seemed ok, a light covering of soot inside but no signs of water. I also blocked one end and blew hard on the other, and it seemed to hold the pressure (I guess it could still have a pinhole leak).

Thanks, appreciate your help!
 
Hi everyone -

Time for an update. Test kit arrived today. I ran the test twice with the engine warm - there seems to be no sign of CO2 in the cooling water, the liquid stays blue. So it would appear the head and head gasket are ok.

However, there is something strange causing the system to pressurise. When testing, I ran the engine for 2-3 minutes at 2000rpm, watching the blue fluid. There was a bit of movement of air bubbling through. Then, suddenly, both times the coolant boiled over suddenly and quite violently, ending the test as the water came shooting up through the pipe.

Any ideas what could cause that? The only possibility that occors to me might be the thermostat opening, but as the engine was at operating temperature throughout and the gauge stayed constant around 88-90 degrees, I would have thought the thermostat was at least partially open all along.

I'm wondering if the sudden spike in pressures might be causing the numerous leaks to appear all over the place.
 
However, there is something strange causing the system to pressurise. When testing, I ran the engine for 2-3 minutes at 2000rpm, watching the blue fluid. There was a bit of movement of air bubbling through. Then, suddenly, both times the coolant boiled over suddenly and quite violently, ending the test as the water came shooting up through the pipe.

Any ideas what could cause that?
The coolant pump can be turned off by the ECU by vacuum control !!
 
It would have to be the opposite, the thermostat not opening.

So runs ok with no pressure up until it wants the thermostat to open 90•c ish, then it doesn’t and the water boils, creating air and an increased volume, hence it pushing it out.

You could confirm this by removing the thermostat internals and running it without the thermostat to see what happens.

If it’s good then fit a new stat.
 
It would have to be the opposite, the thermostat not opening.

So runs ok with no pressure up until it wants the thermostat to open 90•c ish, then it doesn’t and the water boils, creating air and an increased volume, hence it pushing it out.

You could confirm this by removing the thermostat internals and running it without the thermostat to see what happens.

If it’s good then fit a new stat.
Hm ... I'm not sure I completely understand what you mean. Changing the thermostat is easy enough, but the car runs fine (as long as the coolant stays in, of course ...) whether on long trips or slow city traffic, with the temperature perfectly stable around 90 deg. If the stat were stuck, would it not be overheating?
 
The OM651 has a mapped thermostat and an electronic controlled water pump. Neither are open or running all the time.

It could be the surge is due to the water pump engaging. or the thermostat openeing. Both are controlled by the ecu as well as by temperature.

I would think what you are seeing is normal.
 
Ok, gotcha - thanks for the clarifications!

Just did a 60km round trip this morning. Coolant stayed in and doesn't seem to have dropped noticeably. Fingers crossed ... I keep hoping that eventually we run out of weakened hoses or plastic fittings that can fail, and that life returns to normal.
 

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