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2013 Vito W639 - Positive battery clamp snapped - Advice sought

TechHead

New Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2024
Messages
8
Location
Midlands
Car
2013 Vito 116 W639
Hi,

I'm hoping someone in the forum might have the knowledge for what I thought might be a fairly straightforward job :-(

I've got a 2013 Vito XLWB 116CDi.

I had my starter battery replaced on the van a few months ago back in June 2024 due to it's age and condition, thought all was good until a couple of weeks ago when I couldn't start it at the local supermarket, no power at all.

RAC eventually jumped me back into life, and I took it for an hours drive to get some charge in the battery. Took it home, switched it off, hoped for the best for the next day. Tried to start it the next day and nothing at all, not even power to the dashboard info screen.

Booked it into my local Merc commercial dealer to see if I could get the battery swapped on warranty and some tests completed, would be a few days until they could squeeze me in so I decided to test all fuses with a multimeter to see if any parastic drain on the system. All was fine.

Decided to unbolt the battery under the passenger seat and 'carefully' slide the battery out enough to take off the positive terminal cover, and loosen the battery clamps from the terminal. Moved it a few cms and the positive cable and clamp fell away with the cover, half the terminal clamp was still on the battery :-(

IMG_5086.jpeg

This positive battery terminal clamp has two post stands for additional items. Looks like it was soldered and then crimped properly.

IMG_5088.jpeg

Ok, so thought well, I'm not paying to diagnose something I've found the fault to so decided to do order the part number from Mercedes for the battery clamp by iteself based on them looking up my reg and chassis number, about £50.

B218D1BF-3FAB-49DC-8E50-57DABC4E72DA.jpeg

It looked physically different and only had one stand off post but thought ah well, must have been small incremental changes over the years the model was being built.

Ordered a few parts I would need like flux, solder, heatshrink, etc.

Chopped off the current terminal clamp, tidied end as best possible, did quick eye up test with the cable and terminal clamp, and man, the cable is way to big for the terminal clamp!!

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The terminal clamp is 9-10mm in diameter nternally by the looks of it, the cable core diameter looks more like 14mm.

IMG_5111.jpeg

I've seen some pretty rough looking non mercedes terminal clamps but concered that some wouldn't really be a decent replacement for what was there.

Does anyone recognise the older snapped terminal clamp as I'm suspecting it may be from another Vito model or a Sprinter?

I'm currently looking for the part number as its the correct internal diamter at least and I don't want to replace the whole positive cable.

I've trawled Amazon and Google for quite some days now :-(

Has anyone here also had the same or similar issues, or any experience with the part number I might need to target?

Kind Regards,

TechHead
 
Bummer, I think I just found the part number which is W6394400027, but also just heard back from the local Commercial Merc dealer and he's spoken to Mercedes and they no longer supply the part ready made :-(

Rather than look to replace the cable, I just want to make sure I can get a terminal clamp that is sufficient for the level of current to the systems, does anyone know of any good brands for trucks or vans they could recommend? Ideally I 'think' I need one that will enable me to solder or hydraulic press, or both.

Insights welcome :)
 
Just buy a normal Halfords...or where ever battery terminal....the sort with a plate that holds the wires in...strip back all the wire and clamp it up....job done. Battery terminal is a battery terminal.

These quick release type one are the sort we use at work....loads of room for wires in those.....they go under the plate with the two screws.

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Nice one Alfa.

Wasn't really too sure about getting a screw down terminal, thought with the amount of current (circa 80amp) that I'd need to ensure the connection was proper solid using solder and hydraulic crimp.

I've ordered something similar off Amazon which I'll use as a temp fix for now, it hasn't got any other posts for the three other cables I need to connect up to the positive feed but will sort something.

Screenshot 2024-11-26 at 16.10.15.png
 
Just a thought…
You could use a ‘standard’ battery clamp from an auto electricians or Halfords - the type that clamps the main cable with two screws. The minor cables could be connected via the clamp bolt - perhaps at the square end. If that all makes sense.
Also that main cable looks to be aluminium strands. You won’t be able to solder that into anything.


Edit: think you’ve got it sorted!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
 
Will let you know how I get on with the temp fix, need to get f'er running so I can go make some money before Christmas!!

Nice one for the heads up on the solder, crimp it is when I get a terminal suitable.
 
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To add more to the mix, just seen advice that you shouldn't use aluminium stranded cable with brass terminal clamps?!

Rabbit hole, but for now will just connect up the s*@t block above and see what occurs once it arrives.

Screenshot 2024-11-26 at 16.51.43.png
 
Wasn't really too sure about getting a screw down terminal, thought with the amount of current (circa 80amp) that I'd need to ensure the connection was proper solid using solder and hydraulic crimp.

The cranking current will be WAY higher than that ... I would guess 400A or so. Just the glowplug circuit in the W639 (mine, anyway) has a 225A fuse ...
 
If you can get the main cable off without too much hassle, take it round to your local truck workshop and ask them to crimp you a new terminal on. They will have the correct terminal for the job and more than likley charge you £20 cash.
 
Nice one BTB, is the 80amp fuse for the SAM module? 400A - Kind of why I want to make sure I do it proper rather than quick fix but will need a quick fix to get about.

Looking at replacement cable which are pretty cheap 2nd hand but just a bit concerned about the potential cable routing.

Can't find anything online at the minute
 
Cheers Carat, I'm thinking about it to be fair, or replacing the cable with ends already intact
 
Nice one BTB, is the 80amp fuse for the SAM module?

There will likely be a fuse for the starter relay and/or solenoid - could be that. The starter motor itself pulls too much current for a fuse.
 

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