2013 W212 E250 CDI Accelerator Pedal Replacement

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dragonxpress

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Jul 3, 2017
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17
Car
2013 E250 cdi BlueEffieciency AMG, BMW X5 E70 3.0D & VW Phaeton 3.0 V6 4 Motion
After only having the car for 6 weeks and it only having covered 29k from new with full MBSH and only driving it a handful of times, I am a little miffed to say the least:-

Week 2 saw the EML come on and 'limp home mode' - suspected clogged DPF issue which disappeared after a can of snake oil, a long hard blast on the motorway and a long gentle drive revealed another code - DPF sensor issue which was cured(?) by unplugging and replugging and clearing the error code.

Week 4 saw the ESP light come on when the missus was driving on the motorway which led to serious power loss. A quick phone call to me and a switch off and restart on the hard shoulder cleared the light and power restored and has been ok since - no error light and no loss of power but when connected to computer, an error code - "Component B37 (accelerator pedal sensor) or control unit (motor electronics) is defective"

I have googled this and it seems to be a common problem experienced by others, which was remedied by the dealer replacing the accelerator pedal. Sounds a little drastic but as I understand it, the pedal is electronic rather than mechanical and the sensor/switch is integrated within the accelerator unit, requiring only a push pin fit and 2 bolts to secure.

My question is this - anybody know whether you have to programme/match the replacement pedal to the car or is it just a plug and play affair? I have managed to source a replacement from a scrappy and feel confident to 'have a go' if it is easy as it looks?
 
If it is the same as my ML, plug and play, changed mine last week , bit of a fiddle getting the old one unplugged but not too difficult and I had not touched a spanner for 30 years!
 
If it is the same as my ML, plug and play, changed mine last week , bit of a fiddle getting the old one unplugged but not too difficult and I had not touched a spanner for 30 years!

Thanks Smart320 - that being the case then I'll blow off the dust on my toolkit tomorrow and give it a go ...
 
Small very fragile plastic clips on each side of the plug , broke both mine off trying to extract the plug from the socket at top of the pedal. However fit of the plug into the new pedal is very snug ( entire pedal mounting is held down by clip at bottom and two bolts at the top, so now is rock solid ) so no reason it should move. Sorted out my fast idling problem and engine running more smoothly now. Good luck with your replacement hopefully once you have unbolted the top of the pedal it should just slide upwards ( give it a tap ) and then come free from the bottom clip, refit in reverse,
 
Ok so had a go at replacing the pedal this afternoon. Two plastic 13cm bolts removed and unclipped the plug. Fitting was reversal of this and all done in under 5 minutes! The rev counter used to jump at idle and now has stopped so assume tha there was something wrong with the old pedal switches, went for a drive and it seems to even respond quicker but maybe that's just my wishful thinking. If it works then this is the best £20 I have spent in a long time :)
 

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