212 (204) suspension refurb

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GeorgeR

Active Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2018
Messages
80
Location
Berkshire, UK
Car
s212 Hybrid (E300 T Hybrid)
After 170k miles (over 9 yrs, 80% motorway) our s212 (normal suspension) started to show its age.
The alignment went out of the spec gradually. It is nothing major, the handling is all good but enough to consume the tyres aggressively. It is the well-known issue: the inside one inch of the front tyres is worn down to the fabric, while the rest is 3-4-5 mm.
The camber is out of spec or on the limit on all four corners, also the caster is getting out of spec. So the front rubber bushing is not in great shape for sure.
What is your recommendation: postpone the refurb and use front camber bolts? How much life left in the rear suspension parts if the front front bushings are getting out of their shape?
If it is camber bolts (front only. I think there is no such for the rear)
I see they do an offset of 2.5-3 mm. How much is it in camber and caster degrees and minutes (or decimal degrees)?
Is the rear toe adjustable on the s212? If so do I need a special bolt there as well?
If it is going to be a refurb then
go for the rubber bushing of the front arms first and leave the rest?
or go for the full refurb ? Just the front or the rear as well?
what are the most likely arms, joints, points to change, renew?
All arms and bushings ? (That is a lot...)
Taking the front: two control arms (per side) for sure, then should I think of the main strut top bearing as well?
Taking the rear: all four arms plus that rubber bushings of the spring control arm (Federlenker) plus the rubber bushing for the thrust arm? Anything else?

Thank you in advance,

IMG_3211.jpgIMG_3195.jpgIMG_3203.jpgIMG_3205.jpg
 
First check on the car I found one of the rear suspension strut upper mount broken.
It was an inexpensive fix but still: is it the quality you expect from a genuine Mercedes E class suspension part ?
 

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Nothing is out far enough to worry about....the only red one is just tiny 0.03 degrees out of spec. A tiny amount. If you measured it again it could well be inside spec next time! Toe causes wear like that far more than camber.....its in spec but rear drive cars make the front tyres splay out under power wearing the inside edges (front wheel drive pull the tyres in at the front which is why most FWD cars have a small amount of toe out as std to counter that when under power.).....so if you have soft front bushing (or rack wear) the front may well be toeing out more under power than they should....something that wont show up on the alignment rig........and you have slight toe out to start with....which will only get worse under power. Get under there with a pry bay and see where the movement is...if any. No point replacing parts that are Ok for the sake of it....IMO.
 
First check on the car I found one of the rear suspension strut upper mount broken.
It was an inexpensive fix but still: is it the quality you expect from a genuine Mercedes E class suspension part ?
Its 9 years old and 170,000 miles........so its not really a surprise....think of the punishment its taken in that time.
 
Nothing is out far enough to worry about....the only red one is just tiny 0.03 degrees out of spec. A tiny amount. If you measured it again it could well be inside spec next time! Toe causes wear like that far more than camber.....its in spec but rear drive cars make the front tyres splay out under power wearing the inside edges (front wheel drive pull the tyres in at the front which is why most FWD cars have a small amount of toe out as std to counter that when under power.).....so if you have soft front bushing (or rack wear) the front may well be toeing out more under power than they should....something that wont show up on the alignment rig........and you have slight toe out to start with....which will only get worse under power. Get under there with a pry bay and see where the movement is...if any. No point replacing parts that are Ok for the sake of it....IMO.
Thank you for the advices.
First effort will be to replace the 2*2 front bushings.
It may help to bring back the castor and the camber to spec and provide more firm support under load. It seems like a fairly low cost effort compared to the rest.
 

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